eric
[was]: emaquiling
shadowfox said:All, I know that I should probably ask first before buying stuff, but oh well...
I bought a Unicolor roller and two tanks, look like this:
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Please tell me that this is all I need (except chemicals) to start developing 4x5 sheets. These tanks don't come with or need reels, do they?
You need a darkened room (or do it at night). These tanks look like for paper.
At a minimum, you only need 3 5x7 trays or 8x10 trays.
moving_electron
Member
I use a used Jobo 2521 tank with a jobo 2509N reel in it. I have it on a used Uniroller base. The tank and reel hold 6 sheets and with other reels will do 2 35mm or one 120. The small side of the tank is too small to cover both rollers correctly so I rigged up somthing to hold the "hole end" up so the tank is horizontal when turning on one roller wheel.
It only takes 290ml to process 6 sheets. I use times that are .85x the normal development times. When using something like 1:100 Rodinal that would become exhausted with just 290ml I just mix up 600ml and replace half way through the developing.
I find that if I remove the tank from the roller a few times during process ing and place it upright for a moment I overcome any problems of an undeveloped "dot" once in a while that I experienced in my early sheets. (tiny air bubble?)
It is important in the rinse and refill to give it a few turns on the roller with the stop water to get rid of residual developer that does not fully pour out.
I really like this setup and it was relatively cheap.
It only takes 290ml to process 6 sheets. I use times that are .85x the normal development times. When using something like 1:100 Rodinal that would become exhausted with just 290ml I just mix up 600ml and replace half way through the developing.
I find that if I remove the tank from the roller a few times during process ing and place it upright for a moment I overcome any problems of an undeveloped "dot" once in a while that I experienced in my early sheets. (tiny air bubble?)
It is important in the rinse and refill to give it a few turns on the roller with the stop water to get rid of residual developer that does not fully pour out.
I really like this setup and it was relatively cheap.
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P C Headland
Well-known
One option I haven't seen mentioned is the Pateson Orbital. This is like a tray with a lid, so once the film is loaded, everything else is done with the lights on. It's easy to load the sheets in a dark bag.
Benefits: It's super easy to load, very fast to fill and empty and uses next to no chemistry. The minimum solution required is 60ml, but I use 150ml to ensure enough developer - that is fine for 4 sheets.
Benefits: It's super easy to load, very fast to fill and empty and uses next to no chemistry. The minimum solution required is 60ml, but I use 150ml to ensure enough developer - that is fine for 4 sheets.
venchka
Veteran
Where are the Patterson Orbital processors?
Where are the Patterson Orbital processors?
Many folks mention these on various forums. I have yet to see one or find one for sale. Were they only sold in th UK? Enquiring minds want to know.
Where are the Patterson Orbital processors?
One option I haven't seen mentioned is the Pateson Orbital. This is like a tray with a lid, so once the film is loaded, everything else is done with the lights on. It's easy to load the sheets in a dark bag.
Benefits: It's super easy to load, very fast to fill and empty and uses next to no chemistry. The minimum solution required is 60ml, but I use 150ml to ensure enough developer - that is fine for 4 sheets.
Many folks mention these on various forums. I have yet to see one or find one for sale. Were they only sold in th UK? Enquiring minds want to know.
P C Headland
Well-known
Many folks mention these on various forums. I have yet to see one or find one for sale. Were they only sold in th UK? Enquiring minds want to know.
Ebay UK is the best place to find them at a reasonable price. If you don't like ebay, and are prepared to spend a bit more, you might like to try Retrophotographic.
I got mine off ebay UK. Just had to be patient, but mine cost GBP22.
comp_wiz101
Compulsive Tinkerer
I went the uber-cheapo option. I develop the film in home-made PVC developing tubes. I copied the design from "beyond the zone system" Instead of rolling the tubes in a water bath, I made a motorized roller out of old robotics motorized wheels from my high school and a piece of household electrical wire to act as a skid for the tube to roll in place on.
It works out nice and even, and that way I can prepare chemicals or more tubes while one is developing. Not the best system for a lot of negs, but I don't shoot a lot of 4x5 at a time.
It works out nice and even, and that way I can prepare chemicals or more tubes while one is developing. Not the best system for a lot of negs, but I don't shoot a lot of 4x5 at a time.
bcostin
Well-known
This has been a very interesting thread. I developed my first pair of 4x5 negatives this past Thursday. I used a Unicolor Uniroller base and a print Unidrum (just like the smaller one in shadowfox's post up above), both of which I already had on hand from my father's old darkroom. I generally followed the suggestions on this page, except I only used two sheets and haven't bothered with spacers yet.
I use the Uniroller base all the time to agitate a Paterson 4-reel tank for 35mm and 120, and using the Unidrum really wasn't much different. A lot quicker to load, even, since you just tuck the negatives behind the drum's ridges rather than loading a reel. I don't have a darkroom so the film handling was done in my usual changing bag with a plastic basin to help keep things organized.
I used 300mm of developer (HC110 B) which in retrospect was overkill. This was very old film and I rated the ISO very conservatively; too conservatively as it turns out, because it was definitely a bit overexposed. But fortunately there are no obvious flow marks or other development weirdness.
The 4x5, the camera, the film and the HC110 were all new to me, so this was really just an experimental run-through on a lazy vacation day. I actually expected that something would go wrong and I'd shoot another few sheets to troubleshoot. Overall I'm pleased as punch that I got scannable negatives out of the experience.
I use the Uniroller base all the time to agitate a Paterson 4-reel tank for 35mm and 120, and using the Unidrum really wasn't much different. A lot quicker to load, even, since you just tuck the negatives behind the drum's ridges rather than loading a reel. I don't have a darkroom so the film handling was done in my usual changing bag with a plastic basin to help keep things organized.
I used 300mm of developer (HC110 B) which in retrospect was overkill. This was very old film and I rated the ISO very conservatively; too conservatively as it turns out, because it was definitely a bit overexposed. But fortunately there are no obvious flow marks or other development weirdness.
The 4x5, the camera, the film and the HC110 were all new to me, so this was really just an experimental run-through on a lazy vacation day. I actually expected that something would go wrong and I'd shoot another few sheets to troubleshoot. Overall I'm pleased as punch that I got scannable negatives out of the experience.
venchka
Veteran
I suggest that you gradually cut back on the time in the drum. Continuous agitation requires decreased time. Example: I run Ilford HP5+, ASA 400 in D-76 1:1. The Ilford time is 11 minutes. 9 minutes is working out well for me in a Jobo tank on a Uniroller base. Also, don't use too little developer. You can exhaust the developer with too little. YMMV.
moving_electron
Member
Generally to get continuous roller development times the recommended starting point is .85x the hand agitated times. This works well for me.
venchka's 9 min with roller vs 11 min Ilforfd HP5+ hand agitation recommendation is .82x and is in the same range.
venchka's 9 min with roller vs 11 min Ilforfd HP5+ hand agitation recommendation is .82x and is in the same range.
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Arvay
Obscurant
I wonder how do the Yankee users process 4x5.
I have just bought one but I consider it can not be moved up and down as Jobo.
What's the method of developing?
The only idea I have is to dilute developer 1:3 and keep the tank still for 25-30 minutes...
I have just bought one but I consider it can not be moved up and down as Jobo.
What's the method of developing?
The only idea I have is to dilute developer 1:3 and keep the tank still for 25-30 minutes...
jolefler
Established
Safe investment!
Safe investment!
I've used a set-up like this for 15 years for 4X5 and 5X7 negs. Originally made for RC paper, fibre based paper will occasionally fall out of the slots when agitating. Works a charm for film and RC, though.
Jo
Safe investment!
All, I know that I should probably ask first before buying stuff, but oh well...
I bought a Unicolor roller and two tanks, look like this:
![]()
Please tell me that this is all I need (except chemicals) to start developing 4x5 sheets. These tanks don't come with or need reels, do they?
I've used a set-up like this for 15 years for 4X5 and 5X7 negs. Originally made for RC paper, fibre based paper will occasionally fall out of the slots when agitating. Works a charm for film and RC, though.
Jo
JBee
Member
I use a used Jobo 2521 tank with a jobo 2509N reel in it. I have it on a used Uniroller base. The tank and reel hold 6 sheets and with other reels will do 2 35mm or one 120. The small side of the tank is too small to cover both rollers correctly so I rigged up somthing to hold the "hole end" up so the tank is horizontal when turning on one roller wheel.
movin electron, can you show a picture your drum enlargement ?
I have the same drum and reel. It would take 1,5 l for 4x5 development when not rotated so I thought t get the Uniroller as well for rotating development and safe developer and money.
Jari
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