Developing Fuji Minicopy

[squirrel$$$bandit]

It looks like a sunny week here, so I'm going to go out tomorrow and shoot a roll of Fuji minicopy. ISO 6!! The only dev combo I'm finding online is Rodinal 1:200 for two hours, but I wonder if anyone has tried it in D76. Tom perhaps? I'm not interested in trying to control the highlights and shadows--I want it to look absurdly contrasty like it's "supposed" to.

 

[dmr]

Back in college some of my photo type friends used to shoot Kodak High Contrast Copy Film at a very low ASA/ISO, like 6-10, and then develop it in a diluted developer, but I don't remember which developer they used. Microdol? Does that sound right? It gave normal contrast negatives with very very fine grain.

I never tried this. I liked more of the Tri-X look. 🙂

 

[Tom A]

With normal D76 time/dilution you will end up having a graphic look - black and white - no midtones. I have been shooting it @ 20asa with the Rodinal 1:200/120 min. stand development - and if the subject is not too contrasty it works well - you will still get more than enough contrast for strange effects - but they might actually scan and print -albeit with some difficulty.
You could also make up some Delagi D8 (used for tech pan @ 12-20 asa) or even HC 110 in high dilution (maybe 1:150) and long times. Stand development has the advantage of not blowing the highlights completely - with the HC 110 I would try 30-45 min stand development.
Minicopy is somewhat unpredictable as to "final" negative and I would shoot at least one roll with bracketing 6/12/25/50/100 asa and run it in what you will use as a developer to establish filmspeed/contrast (and, of course, post the results here!).
If you are using D76 - I suggest a very dilute solution 1:5 even 1:10 and gamble with the times!

 

[squirrel$$$bandit]

Well, I've only got three rolls. So I'm gonna go with what seems to be the consensus online--exposed at ISO 6, Rodinal 1:200 for two hours, with a single agitation after an hour. Last time I did this the bottom of the frame looked burned, so I'm going to put an empty reel underneath it in the tank and fill to the top.

I'll have some scans this evening, with any luck! It was great fun shooting the Nokton at f/1.1 in broad daylight.

 

[squirrel$$$bandit]

Well, it worked! Hanging up to dry now. Base is totally clear, which is odd as it was bright purple before developing! It seems as though you can't shoot stuff in shadow pretty much at all--there have to be highlights. Scans later...

 

[Rhodes]

Were one can buy this kind of films? I would like to try out some low ISO ones!

 

[squirrel$$$bandit]

Were one can buy this kind of films? I would like to try out some low ISO ones!

http://www.japanexposures.com/

 

[Rhodes]

Thank you!

 

[squirrel$$$bandit]

OK, here are some results! This stuff scans rather well actually...and you really can drag some detail out of the highlights in software, though you don't really want to do this too much, or else it will look like badly exposed regular B&W film. It reminds me a lot of slide film, the way the transitions are kind of syrupy, except much, much more so. I really dig this stuff!

 

[Tom A]

That looks good! As you say, one can get a lot more details out in scanning and PS or LR. I would hate having to wet-print it though!
If you want to shoot in shadows - I would rate it @ 20 asa and the same time (sounds weird - but works). Flat light works well with it.
I still have 14-15 rolls left - I want to try one of the old Tech Pan stand by;s too - Delagi D8.