Developing Virgin: Tips needed.

[Becoming]

Hi there, I'm finally going to develop my first roll of film tomorrow and I'd like any advice you can spare.

I've got 5 rolls of Delta 3200-135 in the fridge waiting to be developed and a bottle of Rodinal.

I've checked The Massive Dev Chart but I was wondering if anyone has any other advice or tips they can give me for this film/developer combination?

A couple of notes: All the rolls were rated at 3200 and I've got a serious love affair with grain.

Thanks.

 

[mackigator]

Hmmm, no developing advice, but I do have advice for the last step, the final rinse: Mix your photoflow with distilled water and don't touch the negs - just let them drip dry. I hang mine in a small bathroom with a space heater on.

 

[ItsReallyDarren]

For best results with your current 5 rolls shoot a test roll and develop that first. Not always are the times on the development chart accurate for your exposure and development methods.

 

[Becoming]

Excellent. I was going to hang the negs in our spare room (future darkroom) which is well heated so that should be ok.

Thanks for the tip about the distilled water too!

 

[LeicaM3]

you like grain? rodinal and delta3200 -> grain you will get

first time, keep it simple
do one roll only first
4ml rodinal plus water
bang the tank to get rid of bubbles
swirl for 30 seconds
let stand for 1 hour
stop
fix
rinse
post results

 

[coelacanth]

As you've already checked, Massive Dev Chart is your best friend.

And Photo-Flo works great. Just don't put too much of it into water. Drop a tiny bit into water, not the other way around (pouring water into PF) as it will make soapy bubbly water. 😛

Follow the dev chart and whatever books or websites you are using as instruction for now. In time, you will find your favorite methods. Good luck, it's truly rewarding. You'll get super excited when you unroll the film every single time. 😉

 

[martin s]

I'd go by the advice Le Vrai Rdu once gave me, do it the "normal" way before you get into stand developing. Not that it's more difficult, but if something goes wrong (streaks, uneven development, ... ) it's a lot harder to trace than with a normal technique.

And do a test roll for sure, with Rodinal you can be off quite a bit (at least that's how it is for me, not the case with d76, XTOL, ... )

martin

 

[Becoming]

ItsReallyDarren:

I actually shot these 5 rolls as test rolls anyway so I'm willing to experiment with them.

I've actually only been shooting Tri-X recently and plan to only use that and Rodinal over the whole of 2010. I really like the idea of choosing a combination and sticking with it and fully learning it.

Thanks for dropping by!

 

[Becoming]

Wow, I wasn't expecting this many quick replies! I love this place.

Drop a tiny bit into water, not the other way around (pouring water into PF) as it will make soapy bubbly water.

That's just the kind of little tip that really helps. Simple little things that only experience can teach you.

Oh and LeicaM3, I'll definitely post some results when I'm done.

Thanks a lot everyone.

 

[ItsReallyDarren]

ItsReallyDarren:

I actually shot these 5 rolls as test rolls anyway so I'm willing to experiment with them.

I've actually only been shooting Tri-X recently and plan to only use that and Rodinal over the whole of 2010. I really like the idea of choosing a combination and sticking with it and fully learning it.

Thanks for dropping by!

Ahh then your all set. You've got the perfect frame of mind to go about this.

Distilled water works to cut back on drying spots on negatives depending on the quality of your water. I used regular tap water which gave me spots, moved to distilled and the problem disappeared, I've found filtered water from a pitcher filter works just as well too.

 

[Roger Hicks]

ItsReallyDarren:

I actually shot these 5 rolls as test rolls anyway so I'm willing to experiment with them.

I've actually only been shooting Tri-X recently and plan to only use that and Rodinal over the whole of 2010. I really like the idea of choosing a combination and sticking with it and fully learning it.

Thanks for dropping by!

Dear Michael,

Unless it doesn't work, and Delta 3200 is one of the worst combinations you could choose. True ISO 650-800 if you're lucky, and mega-grain.

Tri-X and Rodinal will give you lovely tonality; huge, sharp grain; and poor speed (try EI 250, probably close to the true ISO).

I'll second Martin's advice, too. The mainstream is usually a LOT easier to master.

Cheers,

R.

 

[Becoming]

Just thought I'd mention I'll be using Kodak Max Stop and Kodak Tmax Fixer.

What measurements/dilutions are recommended for each of these chemicals?

Also, whilst on the matter, is there a recommended time to keep the stop bath in the tank?

I'm sorry for all the silly questions but I find the instructions on the bottles bewildering.

:|

 

[Becoming]

Hi there Roger, thanks for the info.

I shot the Delta 3200 a while back, before I had decided on what film/chemicals to buy proper. It was actually the first brick of film I'd ever bought and alas, before I knew anything about developing myself.

I must admit, I'm not holding out for great results from this combination (or my competence!) but I would just like to try to get the best I can from the situation. This is a dummy run for the rolls of Tri-X I've got sat in the fridge waiting. And Tri-X in Rodinal is a combination I know I love.

Thanks again.

 

[bmasonoh]

I have nothing to add but encouragement. I just started developing film again after twenty years and have to say that the sense of accomplishment and satisfaction can't be beat. Don't be discouraged if it doesn't turn out perfect. Just keep experimenting and asking questions. Good luck!

 

[SteveM_NJ]

sorry off topic,
Michael, (Becoming)
you indicate - leica M3, (many of us here have / enjoy them too) yet avatar is a black rangefinder around your neck, what model is that?

 

[mfogiel]

I would try to develop in Rodinal with a 30 sec initial agitation and a couple of inversions or swirls each 3 minutes thereafter. With les frequant agitation you risk streaking or pronounced edge effects, with more frequent agitation your grain will explode. Also, do not use more than 3.5-4ml per film, this way you are less likely to overdevelop the highlights. Try one roll and adjust your time thereafter. With Tri X, I use the above technique shooting between EI 250-320, and developing for 15 minutes in total.

 

[Becoming]

Steve, I mentioned LeicaM3 in reference to the username of someone that replied in the thread.

I don't have an M3, or any Leica for that matter. The camera in my avatar picture is my Bessa R3A with 40mm Nokton.

 

[Becoming]

Mfogiel, thanks a lot for your detailed reply.

The example picture you've given speaks for its self, but it's great to know how particular 'looks' are acheived when you're just starting out. I'm looking forward to finding a process that feels comfortable and matches the aesthetic I'm after.

One roll at a time...

🙂

 

[nathanp]

Hello, I recently developed my first film and I've got to say it gets addictive!

Here's a thread with my experiences after the first film - http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82978

That was with Tri-X 400 in Rodinal, shot in dreary Welsh weather. A couple of them got shot at ISO200 (the ISO selector got moved accidentally) but they seemed to come out as good as or better than those shot at 400.

The main tips I'll offer are:
- Keep the agitation gentle, I think I was too quick on my first roll and I think it made things a bit more grainy (but I could be wrong).
- Practice the spool loading in a change bag a lot
- Rinse a lot. I don't think I rinsed my first film enough

It's amazing when you unroll the film from the spool and see images. In some ways I hate waiting for the film to dry but really that enforced waiting is part of what I like about the process.

[Edit]
Here's another thread I started with my shopping list for equipment. There are some good tips from other people too.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82678

 

[venchka]

Hmmmmmmmm...

Ilford and Kodak web pages have more information than you need. About every product they make.

I can't speak for Delta 3200, but I can speak for Kodak Tmax 3200 exposed at 1600 and Xtol 1:3 and continuous agitation. A very nice combination with minimal grain.

I would think that one of Ilford's devleopers, perhaps the one they reccomend for Delta 3200, would be best. Microphen or DDX maybe?

Rodinal appears to work best with reduced agitation. Gentle movement and several minutes between agitation cycles. Like mfogiel said.