Development temp control

jalLee2001

jallee55
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I am pretty good at getting the temp of Developer, Stop bath and Fixer to 20C. Two questions;

1) Does it matter what the temp of the stop bath and fixer are?

2) Does one need to worry about temp control after you pour the liquids into the tank?

Thanks in advance

John
 
The temp for the stop bath and fixer needs to be similar to the development temp, but not necessarily exactly the same.

If the room temp is drastically different than 20c then maybe a small change in time might be prudent, but again, there would have to be a big difference (and long devel. times). You can develop b&w at many different temps provided the time changes accordingly. With colour you need a way to maintain temps.

It is important to be consistent to get results that can be repeated or to determine the effects of changing variables (one at a time!).
 
It is always good to practice limited temperature variances for consistency but as far as contrast control the temperature is not important when you have finished the developing stage of your process.

Modern film emulsions are very stable compared to what they were 40 years ago where you could run into retriculation problems and uneven grain clumping.

Try to keep the temperature in all steps within 1c. mostly for consistency.

Agitation is equaly important during the development stage. Try to be as consistent as possible so that you can predict how your negatives look as you get more experienced developing your film.
 
Ilford recommends that the stop, fix, wash and rinse be within 5 degrees of the developing temp. I don't sweat it too much. Though I do tend to be pretty rigorous with the agitation.
 
Thanks everyone,

I live in Singapore, so unless the kitchen is air-conditioned, there can be a pretty wide swing in temperatures. I am going to watch it closer going forward. I am just becoming consistent now in regards to agitation an such.
 
Ilford recommends that the stop, fix, wash and rinse be within 5 degrees of the developing temp. I don't sweat it too much. Though I do tend to be pretty rigorous with the agitation.

That might work out for Ilford products developed at the regular 20°. But it is a bit of a simplification and could be risky under different conditions.

In general, what matters is the downward temperature step within one water change - too big a temperature drop will cause reticulation, a coarse grain-like shrinking of the emulsion layer. In my experience 5° down in one single increment won't matter with hardened emulsions late in the watering stage, but it is already unsafe for soft films or in the dev->stop or dev->fixer step (where the pH change creates a additional reticulation risk). Make it a maximum of 2°C down per bath change and you are on the safe side - perhaps even less if you are operating at a base temperature higher than 24°.

Theoretically you would be absolutely safe gradually shifting from 38° development to a 5° wash in 15 water changes with about 2° drop each (not that you'd want to, at 5°C washing will take ages to complete), while going from moderate 23° to moderate 16° in one change will probably reticulate your film visibly.

Upward changes are harmless as long as they don't have you end up past the maximum safe temperature (about 30°C for unhardened or 45°C for hardened emulsions) - if you keep below that, even a single-step upward change of 10° won't harm the film (as long as you remember that going down again would take you five steps).
 
For temp control during development, I insert a thermometer into the tank at roughly the midpoint of development. If, say, normal time is 10 minutes, I measure the temperature of the developer at around 5 minutes and use that as the average to compensate if necessary.

For stop, fix and wash I try to be close to 20 degrees C. However, a long time ago I did a test with Ilford HP5 where for stop I used almost boiling water and for fix back to 20 degrees. The negs were fine! (this does not say anything about how other films will react)

Cheers
 
That might work out for Ilford products developed at the regular 20°. But it is a bit of a simplification and could be risky under different conditions.

In general, what matters is the downward temperature step within one water change - too big a temperature drop will cause reticulation, a coarse grain-like shrinking of the emulsion layer. In my experience 5° down in one single increment won't matter with hardened emulsions late in the watering stage, but it is already unsafe for soft films or in the dev->stop or dev->fixer step (where the pH change creates a additional reticulation risk). Make it a maximum of 2°C down per bath change and you are on the safe side - perhaps even less if you are operating at a base temperature higher than 24°.

Theoretically you would be absolutely safe gradually shifting from 38° development to a 5° wash in 15 water changes with about 2° drop each (not that you'd want to, at 5°C washing will take ages to complete), while going from moderate 23° to moderate 16° in one change will probably reticulate your film visibly.

Upward changes are harmless as long as they don't have you end up past the maximum safe temperature (about 30°C for unhardened or 45°C for hardened emulsions) - if you keep below that, even a single-step upward change of 10° won't harm the film (as long as you remember that going down again would take you five steps).

Then again, with most modern Ilford films it's quite hard to create reticulation even if you try.

To the OP: stand the tank in a bowl of water at the right temperature, when you aren't agitating it.

Cheers,

R.
 
I'd say reticulation is pretty hard to achieve, a ±5°C won't do it with all current emulsions—I know I've tried!
Relax; put the bottles of fix, developer and stop in a bucket of water at 20°C and just enjoy your hobby 🙂
 
I tend to get the dev as close as possible to 20C or slightly higher , and try to keep the tank insulated when not agitating. Stop, fix and wash - as long as they pass the finger test (neither cold nor warm) they're close enough.

First film I was festidious, but now I'm developing reasonably regularly (ok, not compared to some on here...) it just seems natural not to worry about precision on the temperatures other than dev. It works, the local water is relatively soft, just crack on with no worries.
 
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