raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
Did my first C41 film development today.
First i mixed the powder chemicals into developer, blix and stabilizer.
Then rather worry about the 43c which is the development time, I chose to try 40mins stand development for developer, followed by 20mins blix and 5mins stabilizer. (the temp here around 29-31c all year round).
The negatives were dense and I shot in a variety of iso 100, 200, 400, 800 and 1600. with a bit of slight blue overcast.
For my next development, I will try 30mins of developer, 10mins of blix and 2 mins of stabilizer.
The sample images are below, but they have been processed with a desaturated color preset.
First i mixed the powder chemicals into developer, blix and stabilizer.
Then rather worry about the 43c which is the development time, I chose to try 40mins stand development for developer, followed by 20mins blix and 5mins stabilizer. (the temp here around 29-31c all year round).
The negatives were dense and I shot in a variety of iso 100, 200, 400, 800 and 1600. with a bit of slight blue overcast.
For my next development, I will try 30mins of developer, 10mins of blix and 2 mins of stabilizer.
The sample images are below, but they have been processed with a desaturated color preset.
Bill Clark
Veteran
They look terrific! Good job.
Nothing better yet producing accurate skin tones than film. Of course, my opinion only!
What was your dilution of developer for stand processing?
I use Rodinal for stand B&W but I haven't tried it with C-41.
Nothing better yet producing accurate skin tones than film. Of course, my opinion only!
What was your dilution of developer for stand processing?
I use Rodinal for stand B&W but I haven't tried it with C-41.
Sparrow
Veteran
I like that look myself.
In our last house I discovered the hot water storage-tank cupboard was an almost a constant 40-C ... it's always worth looking around, in this house I have a 60 watt bulb in a tin box screwed to the underside, at one end of the bench and a variety of temperatures to chose from
In our last house I discovered the hot water storage-tank cupboard was an almost a constant 40-C ... it's always worth looking around, in this house I have a 60 watt bulb in a tin box screwed to the underside, at one end of the bench and a variety of temperatures to chose from
zauhar
Veteran
I think your results look great ! But if you want to do it the standard way, setting up a water bath in a plastic tub is not hard.
Randy
Randy
raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
hi,
Did another 2 rolls for development today at water/room temperature of 30c.
I did Developer for 20 mins Stand Development. (20 initial agitation, leave it alone, did 5 more agitation during half mark at 10mins). No dilution.
Then Blix for 10mins, wash then Stabilize for 02 minutes.
Colors aren't so saturated and contrast was lower compared to yesterday. Negatives doesn't look so dense.
"Sailors in Chinatown", M2 with 50f1.4 Nikkor Fuji Superia.
The image has been post processed with a desatuated preset with other tweaks.
Did another 2 rolls for development today at water/room temperature of 30c.
I did Developer for 20 mins Stand Development. (20 initial agitation, leave it alone, did 5 more agitation during half mark at 10mins). No dilution.
Then Blix for 10mins, wash then Stabilize for 02 minutes.
Colors aren't so saturated and contrast was lower compared to yesterday. Negatives doesn't look so dense.
"Sailors in Chinatown", M2 with 50f1.4 Nikkor Fuji Superia.
The image has been post processed with a desatuated preset with other tweaks.
raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
Bill,
i am lazy but high volume developer, i just completed 200 (!) rolls in 2015.
the reason is because the water here in the tropics is always hovering around 29c to 31c. for BW it is always stand developed but with various chemicals, the current being D76 with 50ml per roll of film (and 250ml of water). I usually stand for 30 - 40 mins depending on push processing, but always at 30c.
with c41, i didn't want to handle the higher temp, so i am still experimenting, starting yesterday at 40mins @30c and today wtih 20mins@30c. Still tweaking the process.
raytoei
i am lazy but high volume developer, i just completed 200 (!) rolls in 2015.
the reason is because the water here in the tropics is always hovering around 29c to 31c. for BW it is always stand developed but with various chemicals, the current being D76 with 50ml per roll of film (and 250ml of water). I usually stand for 30 - 40 mins depending on push processing, but always at 30c.
with c41, i didn't want to handle the higher temp, so i am still experimenting, starting yesterday at 40mins @30c and today wtih 20mins@30c. Still tweaking the process.
raytoei
brbo
Well-known
The experimentation has already been done by C-41 chemistry manufacturers.
You can't get properly developed C-41 film at 30deg. But if you insist on 30deg, 8min with standard agitation (every 30sec) is your next best thing if I remember correctly. Just google for Tetenal C-41 times at 30deg.
You can't get properly developed C-41 film at 30deg. But if you insist on 30deg, 8min with standard agitation (every 30sec) is your next best thing if I remember correctly. Just google for Tetenal C-41 times at 30deg.
zauhar
Veteran
Someone else who achieved pretty decent results:
http://www.lomography.com/magazine/96244-c-41-development-at-room-temperature-with-stand-processing-and-optional-bleach-bypass-for-cool-effects
Colors have low saturation, but not at all bad for doing things the 'wrong way'.
Randy
http://www.lomography.com/magazine/96244-c-41-development-at-room-temperature-with-stand-processing-and-optional-bleach-bypass-for-cool-effects
Colors have low saturation, but not at all bad for doing things the 'wrong way'.
Randy
johnny9fingers
Well-known
Hi Raytoei, I like the look of those photos. Did you use a kit like the Rollei Digibase kit?