differences early - later M6s

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Wouter

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I need some advice - i'm looking for a nice m6 and have the opportunity to buy a 'Leitz' badged M6 for a good price, in very good condition. Now, I would like to know what the main differences are between the early m6 models and the later ones (structural issues, not models issues like panda versus thailand etc.). Also, does the ttl of the m6ttl make a lot of difference ? Thanks in advance.
 
I think this is the info you're looking for:
http://www.cameraquest.com/m6dif.htm

I have the first, early version and love it. I used mine side-by-side with a friends later version M6 "classic" and never noticed a difference when shooting.

If you're getting the earlier version for a good price, go for it. Mine was like-new in the box with manual and everything for a great price. I kind of like the "Leitz" badge over "Leica" anyway. A little more unique that way, but in the end, it doesn't affect my pictures ;)
 
I remember talk randomly from people discussing something to do with metering issues with the older models. Something about the wiring or circuit board or some such. No one seemed to think it was a big enough issue to keep them from buying one as I recall, but you asked so there you go! I'm sure there are others here that can explain this better than I.. Like I said, I just vaguely remember it being mentioned in threads.. I have a later one, one of the last pre ttl versions actually, and I've never had an issue with it.
 
Wouter - one difference was in the way that the meter operated. In the first versions when the light level was out of range (certainly at the low end), the meter diodes remained off. In the later versions, they blinked. I had both and preferred the newer. Not sure what if any were other functional differences.
 
I own a Wetzlar M6. Mine is in great condition and I got it at a very reasonable price. There is a differances in the metering between the two. The earlier version kinda works more like my NiKon F3 in that the LEDs change their level brighness in a half stop.

As I remember from Steve Grady's link, the later M6 responds in a one stop increment. For some the extra sensitivity of the early meter might be too busy, but I like it.

Although, I'm not really a collector, I really love all the structural differances that distinguish the Wetzlar M6's. They seem to have a bit more personality and identity.

I have also seen some with the engraved top plate with Leica in the red dot.

Good Luck

Calzone
 
Calzone said:
The earlier version kinda works more like my NiKon F3 in that the LEDs change their level brighness in a half stop.
Click to expand...

I have Nikon F3HP and it doesn't have LEDs, only + and - LCD without any levels of brightness. Maybe you mean F2 with leds as for example DP-12 prism?

I have had Leitz M6 and it works how you wrote. As I have read, later power stays on little longer with no press to shutter release button.
 
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The early Wetzlar-built cameras have that lovely old-fashioned wrinkle-finish paint around the rear door aperture and often have very brownish lacquer on the internal plate covering the bottom of the shutter. Hardly big issues, but pleasant reminders of hand-finishing and the golden era of Leitz (whenever that was!)

I must say I like the engraving found on the top plate of the early M6 too – they look terribly bare without it.
 
I have both an early Wetzlar and later Solms M6.
Aside of the slight differences in lightmeters, which I agree, the advance lever of the Wetzler version is smoother to the Solms in my opinion.
I can easily tell the difference berween the two even though the Solms was nearly new when I bought it.
I also like the engraved top plate as well.
Either era is a great option.
 
mirrored said:
I have Nikon F3HP and it doesn't have LEDs, only + and - LCD without any levels of brightness. Maybe you mean F2 with leds as for example DP-12 prism?

I have had Leitz M6 and it works how you wrote. As I have read, later power stays on little longer with no press to shutter release button.
Click to expand...


Thanks for correcting me. You were very intuitive: I have a F3P, a F3HP, and F2AS. I was thinking of the F2AS.

Calzone
 

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mirrored said:
I prefer needle in my F2A, but I have thinked much F2AS. It's unbeatable in low light situations. Silicon diode sensor -EV2. I'm gonna sell my very fine condition F3HP and buy DP-12 prism. Those prises are about same. :p

Sorry offtopic.
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/nikonfinder/f2dp12.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikon_F2

/quote]

Sorry to further hyjack the thread. The prices on F3's are unbelievable cheap. And you are correct the F2 AS is a great pick for low light hand held, like in a bar at night. It is hard to part with this gear.

I'm thinking the Wetzlar M6 with its sensitive meter and a 35/1.4 ASPH is the untimate for low level light hand held. I totaly understand though if some people do not like how hyper sensitive it is, but it works for me.

Calzone
Click to expand...
 
I have a 87' *series one* M6 LOVE IT!!!!!!!

Would`nt sell it for anything in the world, it`s fantastic working with the half stop sensitive LED arrows and really fast vintage lenses :D

Next step for mine is to put a Black Chrome M3 film advance and a Black Chrome Leicaflex SL2 Rewind knob on it to make it even more reliable. ;)

Tom
 
Calzone said:
I own a Wetzlar M6. Mine is in great condition and I got it at a very reasonable price. There is a differances in the metering between the two. The earlier version kinda works more like my NiKon F3 in that the LEDs change their level brighness in a half stop.
Click to expand...

mirrored said:
I have Nikon F3HP and it doesn't have LEDs, only + and - LCD without any levels of brightness. Maybe you mean F2 with leds as for example DP-12 prism?

I have had Leitz M6 and it works how you wrote. As I have read, later power stays on little longer with no press to shutter release button.
Click to expand...

Calzone said:
Thanks for correcting me. You were very intuitive: I have a F3P, a F3HP, and F2AS. I was thinking of the F2AS.

Calzone
Click to expand...

I have DP-12 (F2AS) now too. The leds of it have no levels of brightness. Instead it looks just same as Nikon FM2 display. 3 leds (+ o - ).

DP-12 (picture):

exposurevalue.gif


Early M6 have two light-arrows which works by levels of brightness.
 
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My advice is to 'buy the camera' (purchase based on condition) and not worry about which series may have or may not have some incremental differences. I would rather have an older Mint M6 than a beat up late model. If you use flash than the M6TTL has a considerable advantage except for 21mm and less lenses where an external finder must be mounted on the hot shoe rendering TTL flash unusable. So if not needing TTL flash buy the best example you can find. I have a later M6 Classic with 0.85 finder purchased virutally new from a collectors safe.-Dick
 
Early M6`s had poor light seals around the shutter opening. DAG had to replace it on my two M6 early cameras. It was done perhaps 5 years ago with a modern mylar one.
It is not a wear item as neither camera had more than 20 rolls through it . Just general poor choice of material.

Some the early light meters fail, the frame counters sometimes fail, and the viewfinder is missing the condenser lens so one can get flair but that is not corrected with later models of the M6. TTL is the same camera with functionality for TTL flash control.

Forgot, brass film cassets only fit early M6`s. If you use film, they are the only way to go. I will not buy a camera that does not take them.
 
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