ikiru
Established
Anyone have a scan of the 1995 article By Dignan(Vol. 16, No. 6: Jim Hughes on W. Eugene Smith/Dignan NCF-41 / Medium Format) on his split process c-41 it sounds to be the conterpart of diafine for colour! temp and time no longer being critical.
Anyone ever tried it?
thanks
-jay
Anyone ever tried it?
thanks
-jay
JOE1951
Established
Found this
http://www.apug.org/forums/article.php?goto=lastcomment&v=1&a=142#comment568
Posted by Claire Senft 07/12/2005
In the NOV/DEC 1995 issure of Darkroom and Creative Camera Techniques
Patrick Dignan wrote an article on a divided color negative developer. Everything in this article comes from that source.
Patrick Dignan, sadly now deceased, was a pioneer in the formulation of color chemistry for the home darkroom worker in the United States. As such he had earned the respect of an extensive following of home darkroom workers in compounding their own color chemistry. This article is the result of work that he did...thank him not me.
Of course as a divided developer there is al lteast two baths: Developing agent etc in bath A and the alkali etc in bath B. The reason for having two baths is that when the baths are combined oxidation starts with the predictable effect one must expect on shelf life. This type of developing practice of two...or more..baths has been long practiced in b&w for the same reasons. In the case present it is to provide a divided alternative to C-41 (Flexicolor) developer.
A BATH:
Water (distilled) 300milliliters
Sodium Bisulphite .5 (1/2) gram I added (1/2) to prevent reading as 5 grams.
CD-4 (Kodak developing agent) 5.5 grams
Sodium Sulphite (anhy.) 4.5 grams
Water (distilled) to make 500 milliliters
ph at up to 75ºF: up to 6.5
Time in A bath (including drain time): 3 min.
B BATH
Water (distilled): 500 milliliters
Potassium Carbonate 53 grams
Potassium Bromide .5 (1/2) gram
Water (distilled) to make 1 liter.
optional: Benzoitriazole (Kodak anti fog #2) 2 milligrams
Ph at 75ºF: 11.8
Time in B bath 6 minutes
As you can see not a difficult formula to put together. There is no need to be able to measure any closer than 1/10th gram
Shelf life has exceeded 1 year. Use an acetic acid stop bath. I, in lieu of anything else, I would recommend 20% vinegar to water
Coventional bleach and fix or blix as otherwise used. 75ºF can be used with extended time.
Since there is some carry over every time film is developed you will eventually find your self with insufficient stock to cover your film. That is when you will need to make more. The amount of time elasped from compounding should not matter. NEVER GET ANY B BATH INTO A BATH OR YOU WILL CAUSE THE A BATH TO START OXIDIZING.
THIS DEVELOPER IS DESIGNED TO WORK WITHOUT A PREWET BATH
Since the time in A bath is used only to absorb developing agent and because the agent will be fully utilized in B bath you can not over develop your color film.
This is designed for tank processing. I do not see a method for use with a JOBO unless you reclaim your ingredients.
Try this as it is aseasy and as economical as you will ever find.
http://www.apug.org/forums/article.php?goto=lastcomment&v=1&a=142#comment568
Posted by Claire Senft 07/12/2005
In the NOV/DEC 1995 issure of Darkroom and Creative Camera Techniques
Patrick Dignan wrote an article on a divided color negative developer. Everything in this article comes from that source.
Patrick Dignan, sadly now deceased, was a pioneer in the formulation of color chemistry for the home darkroom worker in the United States. As such he had earned the respect of an extensive following of home darkroom workers in compounding their own color chemistry. This article is the result of work that he did...thank him not me.
Of course as a divided developer there is al lteast two baths: Developing agent etc in bath A and the alkali etc in bath B. The reason for having two baths is that when the baths are combined oxidation starts with the predictable effect one must expect on shelf life. This type of developing practice of two...or more..baths has been long practiced in b&w for the same reasons. In the case present it is to provide a divided alternative to C-41 (Flexicolor) developer.
A BATH:
Water (distilled) 300milliliters
Sodium Bisulphite .5 (1/2) gram I added (1/2) to prevent reading as 5 grams.
CD-4 (Kodak developing agent) 5.5 grams
Sodium Sulphite (anhy.) 4.5 grams
Water (distilled) to make 500 milliliters
ph at up to 75ºF: up to 6.5
Time in A bath (including drain time): 3 min.
B BATH
Water (distilled): 500 milliliters
Potassium Carbonate 53 grams
Potassium Bromide .5 (1/2) gram
Water (distilled) to make 1 liter.
optional: Benzoitriazole (Kodak anti fog #2) 2 milligrams
Ph at 75ºF: 11.8
Time in B bath 6 minutes
As you can see not a difficult formula to put together. There is no need to be able to measure any closer than 1/10th gram
Shelf life has exceeded 1 year. Use an acetic acid stop bath. I, in lieu of anything else, I would recommend 20% vinegar to water
Coventional bleach and fix or blix as otherwise used. 75ºF can be used with extended time.
Since there is some carry over every time film is developed you will eventually find your self with insufficient stock to cover your film. That is when you will need to make more. The amount of time elasped from compounding should not matter. NEVER GET ANY B BATH INTO A BATH OR YOU WILL CAUSE THE A BATH TO START OXIDIZING.
THIS DEVELOPER IS DESIGNED TO WORK WITHOUT A PREWET BATH
Since the time in A bath is used only to absorb developing agent and because the agent will be fully utilized in B bath you can not over develop your color film.
This is designed for tank processing. I do not see a method for use with a JOBO unless you reclaim your ingredients.
Try this as it is aseasy and as economical as you will ever find.
