DIY hexanon 28mm hood

sanmich

sanmich

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I am looking for a hood for my new Hexanon 28.
Meanwhile I bought the chinese 46mm vented hood.
one of the sites sells it as a repalcement for the 35 lux hood, so I thought maybe a 28 will be ok too.
Of course, It vignettes heavily.

Now, I can use a lathe, and I was thinking of adaptinf it to the 28 FL.

One option is to shorten the front. The problem is that if the base of the hood is the part that gets in the frame (the straight tubular part), I can shorten the tilted front to death, it will not stop vignetting.

The second option is to kiss bye bye the threading, shorten the cylindrical base as much as I can, and glue it on a filter. Not very elegant but better chances of success.

Any advice here?
If I chose option 2, what glue would you use? (aluminum on brass both painted...)

Thanks!
 
I've had good luck with two part 5 minute epoxy. With aluminum, brass or glass you have to rough up the surfaces. After it has been 'tacked down' you can apply a bead of epoxy neatly around the already glued area. I've thought about this hood problem for my folders. I am currently looking for just a thin piece of latex or foam hose that is the right size to fit on the un-threaded lens mount. It would collapse when folded. No luck so far.
 
Update:

I have found that the tubular base is long just as a quite thick B+W filter I have.
So I stuck the filter on the filter I intend to use on the lens, and It doesn't vignette.
This is excellent since it seems to indicate that the hood base is not what gets into the frame.

I will try to shorten the front and see what happens...
 
Last edited:
For the people who are fishing around for a genuine 28mm M-Hexanon hood (ahem... Sanmich), what is your budget? Konica charged $80 apiece for these as spare parts before folding the NJ operation.

Dante

sanmich said:
I am looking for a hood for my new Hexanon 28.
Meanwhile I bought the chinese 46mm vented hood.
one of the sites sells it as a repalcement for the 35 lux hood, so I thought maybe a 28 will be ok too.
Of course, It vignettes heavily.

Now, I can use a lathe, and I was thinking of adaptinf it to the 28 FL.

One option is to shorten the front. The problem is that if the base of the hood is the part that gets in the frame (the straight tubular part), I can shorten the tilted front to death, it will not stop vignetting.

The second option is to kiss bye bye the threading, shorten the cylindrical base as much as I can, and glue it on a filter. Not very elegant but better chances of success.

Any advice here?
If I chose option 2, what glue would you use? (aluminum on brass both painted...)

Thanks!
Click to expand...
 
pfoto said:
Why not just get a 46mm wide hood from heavy2stars on eBay? With or without hood.
Click to expand...

Thats what I did! They sell a "W" version and it works great I think:

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The real reason not to use a generic solid hood is that if you bang it into something, it will transmit a lot more shock into the lens - especially the hard anodized hoods.

From a functional standpoint, I'm not sure that there is a difference. There used to be fairly short relatively stiff rubber 46mm hoods that you could at least use with a 35mm lens, if not a 28mm.

A completist would want an original - I suspect that all of these lenses are separated from their original hoods by camera dealers that strip used lenses before reselling them. A stupid practice, since those (expensive) parts seem to end up in $2 junk bins that no one knows about.

I may have a spare hood kicking around, but I need to make sure I still have the one that came with my lens.
 
Krosya said:
Thats what I did! They sell a "W" version and it works great I think
Click to expand...
I actually meant to say: With or without hood cap. WRT to the transmission of shock, are not the OEM hoods metal too? My problem with a number of the Leica and Konica hoods is that they are so big and one of the reasons you have a RF is small right? I've bought a number of small 3rd party hoods for my lenses because I use them for protection rather than anything else; they keep my fingers from gouging the front.
 
The OEM hood has three weak points where the hood connects to the mount. I'm pretty sure those would bend long before transmitting brute force into the lens For what it's worth, the OEM hood is also capable of turning up to 90 degrees without unscrewing or screwing in tighter.

Small hoods are pretty much useless.

pfoto said:
I actually meant to say: With or without hood cap. WRT to the transmission of shock, are not the OEM hoods metal too? My problem with a number of the Leica and Konica hoods is that they are so big and one of the reasons you have a RF is small right? I've bought a number of small 3rd party hoods for my lenses because I use them for protection rather than anything else; they keep my fingers from gouging the front.
Click to expand...
 
i have one with a generic vented hood, which i suspect measures similar to the original. problem is it blocks the rf on my cl, but not on the m3. so i do fantasize about a (shortish) rectangular shade, i read somewhere that a leitz shade (can't remember which) could be used, but you can guess the prices of those ,-)

as for solid metal shades and shocks, ... it's true, it sure doesn't dampen anything. otoh, i had one of the 40.5 vented (from heavystar) when the camera that was mounted took a nasty fall on the nose. the only thing that was affected by it was the shade itself.
 
I'm wondering - how hard does one have to bang a shade, while on a lens for a shock to affect anything? I've never had any issues with this.
 
how hard would one have to bang a lens without a shade for the shock to cause any damange. then, how much of a bumper is a certain design of shade, compared to the next one...

personally i think i've had one incident where the shade actually "rescued" the camera and lens. but i have greater faith in not dropping ones equipment on a tiled floor at all... ,-)
 
Seems to work...

Seems to work...

Today, I machined the front of the hood.
I used the screen of a Nikon F stuck in the back of my M2 to control the vignetting.
I have shorten the hood by about 4mm and it seems to work.
It was a trial and error process:
I shortened by 1mm, took it off the lathe, checked etc.
I might have missed though and maybe, 4mm is overkill. controling the light withthe screen was not easy.
I'll post some pix when I find a digicam...
 
:bang::bang::bang::bang::bang:
I just woke up, and saw that I missed your hood, Dante....
Men are just not meant to sleep...
:bang::bang::bang::bang::bang:
 
finally...

finally...

Pictures of the DIM (Did It Myself) hood.
I had to add a bit of epoxy to the end of the thread so it stops about 30 degrees before the end and I have the opening just in the right place.
 

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