not_in_good_order
Well-known
I will just state upfront that I know very little about printing. I purchased a bunch of cheap used darkroom equipment on Craigslist to learn the process.
The Omega C700 enlarger I bought appears to be in good working order, but the red safety filter that swings in front of the enlarging lens has been broken off. After searching a little on the internet, this seems to happen pretty often with this enlarger. The piece can be replaced new for about $20.00. No big deal.
I've been reading through a few things about using the enlarger (the manual, various websites about making prints) and nothing that I can find ever states when the safety filter is to be used. I guess what I'm asking is this: Is this a critical part that needs to be replaced?
Thanks in advance for any assistance--and I apologize if this is a stupid question
The Omega C700 enlarger I bought appears to be in good working order, but the red safety filter that swings in front of the enlarging lens has been broken off. After searching a little on the internet, this seems to happen pretty often with this enlarger. The piece can be replaced new for about $20.00. No big deal.
I've been reading through a few things about using the enlarger (the manual, various websites about making prints) and nothing that I can find ever states when the safety filter is to be used. I guess what I'm asking is this: Is this a critical part that needs to be replaced?
Thanks in advance for any assistance--and I apologize if this is a stupid question
KenR
Well-known
You absolutely need a red filter. It enables you to check on paper positioning, f-stop, places that need burning or dodging without exposing the paper.
DNG
Film Friendly
rodinal
film user
Exactly the same answer JSU gave, I use the focus mode to focus, take meter readings and position the easel , then lights off, switch to timer mode, load the paper and start the timer. To be honest, I can't recall if my enlarger has the red filter installed or it's lying in a drawer (OMG! Alzheimer?).
not_in_good_order
Well-known
Ok I have a Gralab 300 timer and a safe light, so it sounds like properly using the timer will negate the need for the safety filter.
not_in_good_order
Well-known
Roger Hicks
Veteran
VinceC
Veteran
>> Hopefully your easel is white or clean enough on which to compose your image.<<
I always used an old sheet of blank white -- developed and processed - -photo paper for this. Among other things, the thickness of paper affects grain. And a red filter in between could be optically correct but probably isn't. Safer to focus in unfiltered light.
I always used an old sheet of blank white -- developed and processed - -photo paper for this. Among other things, the thickness of paper affects grain. And a red filter in between could be optically correct but probably isn't. Safer to focus in unfiltered light.
Richard Ross
Established
The red "safe" filter on my LPL 7700 actually wasn't safe. I took it off years ago and haven't missed it.
monochromeimages
Established
My Leitz V35 has the multigrade head and no red filter. Never used one and don't need one in my opinion.
oftheherd
Veteran
Somebody correct me if am wrong, but isn't the red filter a holdover from when ortho papers were widely used? In other words, paper that wasn't (as) sensitive to red light?
In practice, it doesn't need to be used, and would in fact make it harder to compose than the methods described above, which is what most of use have learned to do: compose without the paper we will expose, replace it in the dark, then expose for the correct number of seconds using a timer the enlager is plugged in to.
In practice, it doesn't need to be used, and would in fact make it harder to compose than the methods described above, which is what most of use have learned to do: compose without the paper we will expose, replace it in the dark, then expose for the correct number of seconds using a timer the enlager is plugged in to.
Finder
Veteran
The red filter is only useful if you are trying to make multiple exposures from different negatives and you are not using any kind of registration system. It allows you to align each projected image before you expose.
The red is actually a bad filter to focus with as b&w paper is blue sensitive and you should ideally be focusing under blue to get the sharpest image (which is why top-of-the-line peak grain focusers have a blue filter). How critical this is today is questionable as the color correction on modern lenses is very good--if blue and red are not focusing at the same plane, you are going to have some interesting color prints.
My red filters are really clean as I don't even take them out of the packaging.
BTW, I attach a small piece of paper that I am using to the base of my grain focuser.
The red is actually a bad filter to focus with as b&w paper is blue sensitive and you should ideally be focusing under blue to get the sharpest image (which is why top-of-the-line peak grain focusers have a blue filter). How critical this is today is questionable as the color correction on modern lenses is very good--if blue and red are not focusing at the same plane, you are going to have some interesting color prints.
My red filters are really clean as I don't even take them out of the packaging.
BTW, I attach a small piece of paper that I am using to the base of my grain focuser.
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
Black and white paper still is not sensitive to red light - and it is and was not ortho (except for some odd, long extinct technical proofing and photocopy papers). A growing proportion is blue/green sensitized for variable contrast, but that does not affect the safety of orange or red darkroom lighting.
If you have a good frame, you will never need or use that filter. But it can be useful when handling odd paper sizes - paper which does not fit any available frame has to be laid/tacked to the base board, where such a red filter is the only visual framing control.
Sevo
MartinP
Veteran
I don't use a red filter either. In the case given by Sevo above (of strange sizes of paper) I'd set up the picture I wanted to print, adjust the easel for the margins under safelight (with the paper in, if especially tricky), remove the paper, focus wide open with a scrap piece of paper under the magnifier, stop down the lens, place the paper and make the exposure/dodging/burning.
Perhaps the original purpose was to allow setting-up without dazzling the eyes, but I don't see any essential use for an under-the-lens red filter these days. EDIT: Maybe the occasional use of very large paper, too big for the easel, might be situation when a red filter is useful. I suppose that is what Sevo meant oops.
Perhaps the original purpose was to allow setting-up without dazzling the eyes, but I don't see any essential use for an under-the-lens red filter these days. EDIT: Maybe the occasional use of very large paper, too big for the easel, might be situation when a red filter is useful. I suppose that is what Sevo meant oops.
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dap
Established
The only time I ever use the red filter is when I am positioning myself for tricky dodging and burning (and in those situations I am really happy that I have it). If I am just making straight prints it is not needed. Other than dodging and burning I can't think of any other reason that you would need a red filter.