Do you change film mid roll?

Do you change film mid roll?

  • Yes, I have too many cameras and use the same film in multiple bodies.

    Votes: 7 25.9%
  • Yes, sometimes I need to switch from B&W to color (or vice versa).

    Votes: 10 37.0%
  • No, I shoot exclusively digital.

    Votes: 2 7.4%
  • No, I don't even want to lose a single frame.

    Votes: 8 29.6%

  • Total voters
    27

santino

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Do you people change film mid roll?

It is obviously a question to 35mm film users, since I haven't heard of people that change 120 film mid roll ;).
Anyway, I'm curious about your responses.
 
For me, about once a decade. In the past I have had seriously fast and seriously slow films on the go, and have swapped from one to the other because of light. But normally I have a ton of films on the go, and a plethora of cameras loaded. Swapping just gets even more complicated. Labelling the cameras with what film they carry is the necessary step that I tend to forget. Labelling the rolls with the number of used frames is too much.

That said, option 1 hadn't occurred to me, and makes sense for rarely used cameras.
 
For medium format, 120, I change film by swapping film backs (Hasselblad, Mamiya RB67) - that’s the beauty of the system. Not only color vs B&W, but different backs for low, normal, and high contrast (for Zone system aficionados).

I never change 35mm mid-roll. If I need to, I’ll just bring another camera with differe film. Also, even on vacation, I never bring more than two cameras or two types of film.

I have Exaktas, so one day I’ll use the film knife.
 
It's easy to change 120 film mid roll with a Hasselblad or any other camera with a removable film magazine. I do sometimes remove a roll of film of 35mm film from a camera before exposing all of the frames because I want to develop the film immediately.
 
I have changed 135 film mid roll a few times when I needed higher speed film. Shooting with two bodies solved at lot of that.
 
I 'll change film mid-roll, no problem. It's usually when I need different film sensitivity. Most of my cameras are dedicated b&w or colour.
 
I flub things and then decide to use a different camera, or sometimes the camera hangs up in the case of the FE. I found out how to remedy the FE problem so haven't had to do it for a while. I'm surprised at how clumsy I am with film after 20 years of digital.
 
I change film between cameras all the time. Here are a few things i noticed.

- If one of the camera has an motor drive (i.e. AF SLR), and the other has a hand film advance, i put the film first in the AF SLR and then on the manual advance camera. That is because the motor keeps the natural curl of the film and it is easier to load it on an manual film camera.
- If changing between two cameras of significantly different size (i.e. a P&S compact and a Nikon F5) i always leave 2-3 frames gap. It is a bit unpredictable at times due to the camera size difference.
 
I've done this when I needed to change ASA/ISO. Carried an Ultra-Fine tipped waterproof sharpie and marked the number of frames exposed and at what ASA.
 
My Exakta VX has a knife built in to cut film and change mid-roll. In order to do that you need to wind from the original cassette into another cassette. I have never used the feature. The Zeiss Ikon Contarex has changeable film magazines (but alas, I do not own one). Generally I try and finish the roll I have loaded.
 
I had to do this at times when I had only one camera. In more recent days, it happens only rarely, and not without mistakes. I remember losing pictures by not allowing enough space between frames. I'd rather carry a backup camera if I think I'm going to shoot more than one type of film.
 
You all are right about medium format film and magazines. When I posted the thread I had medium format cameras in mind like the Pentax 6x7 or Pentacon Six, in other words cameras, that are not meant to change film mid roll 😁.

I voted no. 1. It takes time to finish a 36 exposure roll and I like to use different cameras.
 
Not exactly the question asked, but I occasionally develop a half-exposed roll. And of course use the rest of the film in another camera / occasion. Directly from the camera's take-up spool to the Paterson spiral. I can recoup part of the loss (leader) by loading in the dark, if manual advance.

A little more difficult with a P&S that will not let you pull the film from the motorized take-up spool; depends on models. Left as an exercise for the reader.😁
 
I do swap film between two cameras: a rangefinder and an SLR. Mainly because I shoot sparingly, and film would otherwise sit quite long in one of the cameras before having it developed. The sparing part is due to a contemplative approach to shooting; it's not uncommon to come home from a hike with only 2 or 3 shots taken.
 
Not regularly, but I've done it a few time. Like when I get bored with a certain camera or I think something is malfunctioning.
 
I have occasionally. More likely to use a partial roll by noting count. In darkroom I made a cardboard strip with frame counts . While light is on, set the can with leader out for number of exposures used, darken and pull to start end.
 
...

A little more difficult with a P&S that will not let you pull the film from the motorized take-up spool; depends on models. Left as an exercise for the reader.😁
Rewind noise sounds different when the camera reaches the leader. I just open the back when the motor changes gear and I get the film out. Not just p&s, many motorized SLRs are like that too. Gotta say though, every single time I do that I am hit with a "what if', just a split second before I open the back. But I've not had an accident in many years that I do that. And anyway, what's life without a little danger? 😁
 
I regularly change films mid-roll using magazine backs on my Contarex Super as well as 120 Rollieflex 6008's. More to your point I use the interchangeable film magazines as take-up spools on the Zeiss Contax rangefinders so I can remove the films without rewinding on classic cameras.
 
Not since acquiring multiple bodies. I would be reluctant to do this in my current workflow because it might result in uneven frame spacing which would complicate batch scanning.
 
Since I bulk load b&w, color, and IR sensivite films, I usually avoid the problem. If testing a camera, I will load a 10 or 12 exposure roll, for shooting routine walks in areas I have visited extensively, maybe a 20 or 24 exposure roll or when going to a target-rich environment, load 36 exposure rolls.

I don't hesitate to rewind an unfinished roll and note the exposures used for reuse later, if necessary but it rarely happens now.
 
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