JHutchins
Well-known
On another thread there was a picture of a 35 summicron that had been owned by Cartier-Bresson. There focus tab had been modified to look something like the tab/infinity lock on a 50 rigid summicron and it had a red triangle painted near the distance indicator. I've also read that he often put a red dot at four meters as he preferred to have the lens resting at that distance.
I always put a large white mark on my lenses so that it's at the high point of the lens when the lens is fit into the mount but before it's locked in to place. It makes it easier for me, in very dark places, to quickly orient and mount the lens. And I know some people cement end caps together so they can have two lenses back to back as a unit in their bags.
But I wonder if anyone else has any tricks or modifications they make to increase usability or performance?
I always put a large white mark on my lenses so that it's at the high point of the lens when the lens is fit into the mount but before it's locked in to place. It makes it easier for me, in very dark places, to quickly orient and mount the lens. And I know some people cement end caps together so they can have two lenses back to back as a unit in their bags.
But I wonder if anyone else has any tricks or modifications they make to increase usability or performance?
bayernfan
Well-known
this should be fun. i've created some make-shift lens hoods from step-up rings, but i've never felt a need to really mod/customize a lens.
very interested to see what others have done.
very interested to see what others have done.
Timmyjoe
Veteran
I've AI'd four Nikkor lenses from the late 1960's and early 1970's so I can use them not only on my Nikon F but also on all my other Nikon bodies.
Best,
-Tim
Best,
-Tim
^Similarly, all my bayonet Voigtlander and Zeiss ZM lenses have gone to DAG for 6-bit coding.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
I grind the cam on 40mm lenses such as the Summicron, Minolta M-Rokkor, and Voigtlander 40/1.4 Nokton, to bring up the 35mm framelines rather than the 50mm. After all, the whole point of using them is to frame with the 35mm framelines, which on the M6, M7, and MP are really 40mm framelines (while the 50mm framelines on these cameras are better suited for 60mm).
rbiemer
Unabashed Amateur
I once made a focus tab for my rigid Industar-50 using Fimo clay. And some super glue.
https://goo.gl/photos/qyNPVvhBrrN8Htgf9
Worked fairly well for about a year. Fell off the lens somewhere.
Rob
https://goo.gl/photos/qyNPVvhBrrN8Htgf9
Worked fairly well for about a year. Fell off the lens somewhere.
Rob
seany65
Well-known
Do scratches and fingerprints on the glass and dents in the body, count?
bayernfan
Well-known
I grind the cam on 40mm lenses such as the Summicron, Minolta M-Rokkor, and Voigtlander 40/1.4 Nokton, to bring up the 35mm framelines rather than the 50mm. After all, the whole point of using them is to frame with the 35mm framelines, which on the M6, M7, and MP are really 40mm framelines (while the 50mm framelines on these cameras are better suited for 60mm).
I had DAG machine the flange cam on my 40 M-Rokkor to bring up 35 lines. I really enjoy using it on my M2 and M4.
michaelwj
----------------
I modify lenses to varying degrees. Hoods and accessories too.
Modified hood;
Modified Leica Summilux 35mm focus tab (with above hood fitted);
I have a soft line that I try not to cross, which is modifying a lens irreversibly. The focus tab above can be removed and the original part fitted if someone wants to bring it back to original spec. I assume it will have a life beyond my use (at least if someone wants it).
Modified hood;
Modified Leica Summilux 35mm focus tab (with above hood fitted);

I have a soft line that I try not to cross, which is modifying a lens irreversibly. The focus tab above can be removed and the original part fitted if someone wants to bring it back to original spec. I assume it will have a life beyond my use (at least if someone wants it).
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
I'm adding plastic tie on lenses which are missing focus tab. If possible. If not possible, I sell them unmodified.
ruby.monkey
Veteran
I've taken the infinity locks off a few of my lenses, and added a TAAB to my Canon 50mm f/1.2 (a horrible lens to grip otherwise), but have never really modified anything.
mdarnton
Well-known
I had an 85/1.8 RF Canon that I used on my M3s. In order to facilitate mounting, I carefully filed a round notch on the silver back grip of the lens where a red dot would be, so I could feel it in the dark (I was doing a lot of theater shooting at the time).
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
The only custom lens I own is this one-off I had Frank Marshman build for me by merging together two lenses: one was a Fuji 100/3.5 AE that has multicoated glass; and the other lens was an old silver barreled Fuji 100/3.5. that became a donor for the lens barrel. These lenses are for the Fuji "Texas Leicas," the GL690, and GM670.
The 100/3.5 AE had a dead CdS cell so I got it cheap. It had perfect glass which I had Frank install on the old silver barreled version which I also got for cheap. Understand that only the AE lens has multicoating, and all other lenses for the GL690 and GM670 are all single coated. I have a one of a kind lens.
Cal
The 100/3.5 AE had a dead CdS cell so I got it cheap. It had perfect glass which I had Frank install on the old silver barreled version which I also got for cheap. Understand that only the AE lens has multicoating, and all other lenses for the GL690 and GM670 are all single coated. I have a one of a kind lens.
Cal
radi(c)al_cam
Well-known
Certainly, to an extent, yes
E.g.: A permanent marker («Sharpie», «Edding» or the like) is helping when some figures of the the non-metric scale are too close to the correct scale — but some of you might see it exactly the other way around
E.g.: A permanent marker («Sharpie», «Edding» or the like) is helping when some figures of the the non-metric scale are too close to the correct scale — but some of you might see it exactly the other way around
Erik van Straten
Veteran
As I am far-sighted I make on some lenses (the Summar for instance) a small red mark on the f/stop scale at f/5.6 so I can find that f/stop without my glasses on.
Erik.
Erik.
Alberti
Well-known
I have had a Nikkor-HC adjusted to allow close focus to 75 cm. To do that, a small part of the inner ring needs to be taken out. This makes the lens useful in daily practice as 1 meter is not handsome when taking portraits close up.
I also had an M-rokkor 40mm adjusted for 35 mm frames. Too bad I can't do that on a Rokkor 28 (shows 35 while I want 28; would imply adding some metal. Should ask a dentist
).
I also had an M-rokkor 40mm adjusted for 35 mm frames. Too bad I can't do that on a Rokkor 28 (shows 35 while I want 28; would imply adding some metal. Should ask a dentist
maddoc
... likes film again.
I modified a J-12 in Kiev mount to fit my Nikon S2, to avoid scratching the front of the camera when mounting the lens. I also "adjusted" the focal length of a 53/1.8 Helios-103 to use it with the S2.
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