harpofreely
Well-known
Assuming aperture, shutter speed, and exposure comp. are more "shooting parameters" than settings, the only one I change often is the minimum shutter speed in auto iso, so I can maintain an minimum speed appropriate to my focal length. Other than that, raw+jpeg, B&W with green filter, everything on zero.
I hate post processing, and am always trying for an image that works in b&w. So long as I don't clip highlights, I can usually do all the fine-tuning I want even with the crappy tools in the Apple Photos app. The RAW is just insurance for when "it should have been color" or blown highlights.
When you are using a Fuji lens, not legacy glass, the body "knows" the focal length, yes? Would be awesome if you could set the auto iso min shutter to "1 / focal length" or "1 / (focal length * 2)"
I hate post processing, and am always trying for an image that works in b&w. So long as I don't clip highlights, I can usually do all the fine-tuning I want even with the crappy tools in the Apple Photos app. The RAW is just insurance for when "it should have been color" or blown highlights.
When you are using a Fuji lens, not legacy glass, the body "knows" the focal length, yes? Would be awesome if you could set the auto iso min shutter to "1 / focal length" or "1 / (focal length * 2)"
boomguy57
Well-known
Not as often as I thought I would, surprisingly.
daveleo
what?
For the most part, the only setting I change during a set of shots might be the "shadow mode". It's a game with me "can I guess in-advance what I want the final result to look like?"
I will RAF-JPG convert in the camera using "camera settings" plus maybe 3 variations. Then look at them on a computer.
I can't recall ever being prefectly happy with any picture - every one needs to be computer tweaked.
I will RAF-JPG convert in the camera using "camera settings" plus maybe 3 variations. Then look at them on a computer.
I can't recall ever being prefectly happy with any picture - every one needs to be computer tweaked.
geertvn
Established
I sometimes change white balance from auto to kelvin with some color adjustment when shooting concerts under led lights. That's the only thing I change in the menues. I've set 'Preview exposure in manual' and the 4-way controller to change focus points and that's it, all else is standard. I shoot Raw+Jpg, but never use the ooc jpgs (they're too heavily compressed for my taste).
galavanter
Established
do you play with the settings on your fuji?
Please share your settings.
I don't have the camera yet but I guess I made a commitment to get one since I purchased a used XF 10-24 yesterday.
I recently decided to get a real camera again after way too many iPhone pics.
I came close to buying another R-D1 plus 35 UC Hexanon, my old combo. One of those lenses went for $1500 used yesterday.
After looking through the X-T2 EVF the other day I decided my RF romance was over. The size, eye relief, and magnification over the X-Pro2 are just too welcome for my aging eyes.
I am anxious to try raw+Acros. How does the grain setting work with it? Is noise reduction setting grayed out when using Acros?
I suppose I would keep mine set to the lowest -2 for other film simulations.
Edit: Sorry I don't know why I mistook this thread as an X-T2 thread. Anyone with one who can answer my questions?
Please share your settings.
I don't have the camera yet but I guess I made a commitment to get one since I purchased a used XF 10-24 yesterday.
I recently decided to get a real camera again after way too many iPhone pics.
I came close to buying another R-D1 plus 35 UC Hexanon, my old combo. One of those lenses went for $1500 used yesterday.
After looking through the X-T2 EVF the other day I decided my RF romance was over. The size, eye relief, and magnification over the X-Pro2 are just too welcome for my aging eyes.
I am anxious to try raw+Acros. How does the grain setting work with it? Is noise reduction setting grayed out when using Acros?
I suppose I would keep mine set to the lowest -2 for other film simulations.
Edit: Sorry I don't know why I mistook this thread as an X-T2 thread. Anyone with one who can answer my questions?
______
Well-known
I only use the menu to change auto iso minimum shutter speed when I change lenses.
galavanter
Established
do you play with the settings on your fuji?
I think back alley was referring to jpeg settings, although he still does PP.
I want to avoid PP if possible, and my only concern is noise reduction being too heavy even at -2.
Hopefully it is improved or different from X100S. This article was rather convincing:
http://www.rachelrufferblog.com/for...noise-reduction-why-im-only-shooting-raw-now/
My apologies for talking about noise in advance...
Edit: Sorry I don't know why I mistook this thread as an X-T2 thread. Anyone with one who can answer my questions?
I think back alley was referring to jpeg settings, although he still does PP.
I want to avoid PP if possible, and my only concern is noise reduction being too heavy even at -2.
Hopefully it is improved or different from X100S. This article was rather convincing:
http://www.rachelrufferblog.com/for...noise-reduction-why-im-only-shooting-raw-now/
My apologies for talking about noise in advance...
Edit: Sorry I don't know why I mistook this thread as an X-T2 thread. Anyone with one who can answer my questions?
Brian Atherton
Well-known
Played around, reverted to default. The only thing I alter is the Exposure Compensation Dial.
X-Pro2: Acros or Classic Chrome, Auto ISO (and occasionally a set ISO), Aperture Priority, with the EV.
Post processing with PS.
X-Pro2: Acros or Classic Chrome, Auto ISO (and occasionally a set ISO), Aperture Priority, with the EV.
Post processing with PS.
Dogman
Veteran
When I got my first Fuji, an XP1, I played with the settings a lot and only shot JPEG. Later, I started shooting Raw+JPEG and still played with the settings. I found I seldom used the JPEGs since the Raw files could be adjusted easily in post processing and I wasn't so keen on Fuji's colors out of camera anyway. Finally, after acquiring other Fuji bodies, I settled on shooting Raw and left everything set on zero. Most recently, I've been shooting Raw with Film Simulation set to Monochrome. I've become more interested in B&W lately--my love of B&W was how I got interested in photography to begin with over 40 years ago. But it's handy to have those original color Raw files available.
willie_901
Veteran
Even though I never record in-camera JPEGs, at one time I played with JPEG settings to alter the behavior of the on-screen histogram.
Since the histogram is computed from a JPEG, the goal was to minimize overexposure and clipping by improving the relationship between the JEPG and the histogram. With the camera set to auto WB, I used different in-camera JPEG parameters to match the in-camera histogram to the LR histogram of a raw images with the development parameters zeroed.
I did this at base ISO and assumed increases in ISO didn't matter as sensor exposure when the shutter is open decreases as ISO increases.
Eventually I used the histogram less and less. I found auto-bracketing exposures by -1/3, 0, + 1/3 (or even 1/2) F stops was much quicker and more just as effective. A fast SDHC card is convenient.
When the camera is on a tripod and there is time to concentrate on exposure, I use the Fujifilm Camera Remote app with an iPad. Now the JPEG rendering parameters become relevant to what I'll see with the raw in LR.
Since the histogram is computed from a JPEG, the goal was to minimize overexposure and clipping by improving the relationship between the JEPG and the histogram. With the camera set to auto WB, I used different in-camera JPEG parameters to match the in-camera histogram to the LR histogram of a raw images with the development parameters zeroed.
I did this at base ISO and assumed increases in ISO didn't matter as sensor exposure when the shutter is open decreases as ISO increases.
Eventually I used the histogram less and less. I found auto-bracketing exposures by -1/3, 0, + 1/3 (or even 1/2) F stops was much quicker and more just as effective. A fast SDHC card is convenient.
When the camera is on a tripod and there is time to concentrate on exposure, I use the Fujifilm Camera Remote app with an iPad. Now the JPEG rendering parameters become relevant to what I'll see with the raw in LR.
shawn
Veteran
The grain setting should not be used with ACROS. That functionality is already built into ACROS processing as it is part of its NR. You adjust grain with ISO.
I usually shoot ACROS (and most everything else) with NR at -4 on the XP2. If I am shooting really high ISO I might bump it to -3.
That is for JPEGs from the camera, not RAFs in PP BTW.
Shawn
DwF
Well-known
Wow
Wow
Really, -4 NR. I just got the camera but have used XE2 and X100S in the past. I mostly process RAF but am trying to dial in Acros now so I will give that a try! What do you do with your sharpness?
Wow
Really, -4 NR. I just got the camera but have used XE2 and X100S in the past. I mostly process RAF but am trying to dial in Acros now so I will give that a try! What do you do with your sharpness?
shawn
Veteran
Typically leave it at default. I sometimes will play with the highlight and shadow controls but the defaults work pretty well. I might tweak the JPEG slightly in LR and I will use the AutoDR as needed too or set it to DR400 if need. (Wish the XP2 would select that in Auto like the XP1 would)
I rarely bother with RAW unless the lighting is very wacky either from a WB point of view or being very harsh.
Shawn
I rarely bother with RAW unless the lighting is very wacky either from a WB point of view or being very harsh.
Shawn