Does Jupiter 50mm have less flare than industar

[Thardy]

Been using an Industar 61 l/d with pretty good results except for when flare rears up and ruins a nice photo.

I have wondered if a Jupiter in 50mm might be more flare resistant, or should I look for a deeper lens hood?

Anyone know of any really deep lens hoods to fit 40.5mm? I suspect that's all I really need.

Has anyone ever modified a hood to block out more extraneous light?

Or maybe I should just use my CV 40 and crop later in PS?

 

[luketrash]

My 40mm Nokton is better lens than my Jupiter 8 by far in terms of sharpness and contrast. It also stops any doubt about whether I should be using a 50 or 35mm lens for a shot. Just put the 40mm on and walk closer or further from the subject.

The only reason I'd take my 40 off of the camera is if a scene is too contrasty or I wanted some butter bokeh for a people shot. (in terms of swapping on a russian 50 like my J8.)

 

[mcgrattan]

I did some tests with the Jupiter-8 and the Industar-61 a while back. I had two jupiters and one industar and was having a clear-out. I shot all three lenses in varying conditions.

In every case the Industar flared worse than the two Jupiters [a late model black one and an early 60s silver one]. This seemed odd to me, for quite a while the Industar was the only 50mm screwmount lens I had and I don't remember excessive flare.

Nevertheless, the Industar definitely flared more when pointed towards the light. I didn't find a dramatic difference between the Jupiters and the Industar in terms of general performance, although I prefer the out of focus look of the Jupiter when wide open.

Matt

 

[payasam]

My Jupiter 3 is as free of flare as I could want it to be. My I-61 L/D flares when bright light hits it. On both, I use a rectangular push-on plastic hood. Yuri of www.fedka.com sells them. Inexpensive, but it falls off with the smallest bump. From the same place, you can get screw-in hoods as well.

 

[Thardy]

My 40mm Nokton is better lens than my Jupiter 8 by far in terms of sharpness and contrast. It also stops any doubt about whether I should be using a 50 or 35mm lens for a shot. Just put the 40mm on and walk closer or further from the subject.

The only reason I'd take my 40 off of the camera is if a scene is too contrasty or I wanted some butter bokeh for a people shot. (in terms of swapping on a russian 50 like my J8.)

Ah yes, thanks for reminding me why I like the Industar. 😉

 

[raid]

I recommend a Summicron instead ;-)
I would trust the Sonnar design J-8 and J-3 more than the I-61L

 

[hans voralberg]

How about J-8 + hood 😉

 

[jan normandale]

(photographic humour alert)
walk around to the other side of the subject so you don't have to shoot into the sun and use the Industar.

Sharp, crisp, saturated! Even the 'beaters' perform!

 

[raid]

Shoot in the shade. These lenses are inexpensive but sharp and contrasty. You get the Sonnar effect with the Jupiters and you get a non-Sonnar effect with the Industrars.

 

[Solinar]

A Tessar signature, maybe.

 

[raid]

The Sonnars give a pleasing effect by having the center of the image very sharp, with some loss of sharpness [in a nice looking way] towards the edges. The Tessars very sharp at small apertures.

 

[Solinar]

Also, the original pre multi-coated Sonnars yield a soft contrast when compared to the coated Tessars. The Tessar in B/W can give a hard gritty look with regards to contrast.

 

[raid]

(But Highway 61 knows that)🙄

Yes, he knows these things🙄 🙄🙄🙄