BobYIL
Well-known
It is not difficult to detect if a lens focus-shifts; we can also measure how far it does. First place two rulers perpendicular to each other as shown in the picture, the vertical one at 45 degrees to the horizontal axis. The number "20" is our reference point to focus and the testing distance is 1m exact from lens flange.
If your lens has no focus-shift then starting from wide open it will show such a performance (Nokton 50/1.5 Asph. @f1.5, 2, 2.8, 4 and 5.6)
The C-Sonnar is known of shifting focus. Here @f1.5, 2, 2.8, 4 and 5.6. This is a typical focus shift case:
Finally the reference class Summicron 50/2, current formula (!), @f2, 2.8,4, 5.6. Would you believe?!?
Conclusion:
If you like to use your lenses at wide apertures, then better be informed of how much they focus-shift with different apertures. Such optical discrepancies may become more apparent on digital bodies than film. Also sometimes they may deceive us by making us think our rangefinder needs recalibrating. Once you know how they "behave" then it's not difficult to compensate for such shifts.
If your lens has no focus-shift then starting from wide open it will show such a performance (Nokton 50/1.5 Asph. @f1.5, 2, 2.8, 4 and 5.6)
The C-Sonnar is known of shifting focus. Here @f1.5, 2, 2.8, 4 and 5.6. This is a typical focus shift case:
Finally the reference class Summicron 50/2, current formula (!), @f2, 2.8,4, 5.6. Would you believe?!?
Conclusion:
If you like to use your lenses at wide apertures, then better be informed of how much they focus-shift with different apertures. Such optical discrepancies may become more apparent on digital bodies than film. Also sometimes they may deceive us by making us think our rangefinder needs recalibrating. Once you know how they "behave" then it's not difficult to compensate for such shifts.