Don't bother with knock off Nikon SC-28 for TTL flash

mexipike

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I have a Leica M6 TTL and an SF20 flash, I wanted to get the flash off the camera a bit and was looking into purchasing a Nikon SC-28 (which I believe replaces the SC-17) I went to Amazon and saw it cost around $59, so I thought I'd try the knock off listed on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D3UXUTW/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I received it and while it can fire the flash in manual modes it won't work in TTL mode, as in it won't automatically read the film speed etc. When in TTL mode the "A" just flashes. I was able to put the SF20 on the camera then remove it while still on and put it on the chord and it didn't flash the A, but I doubt it's actually reading TTL.

I guess I'll send it back and buy the real deal, just wanted to give a heads up here so no one else wastes there time. Also if anyone knows a trick to make this one work, I'm all ears.
 
I just received a Nikon SC-17 from a craigslist seller for $9 which works flawlessly. I think I saw somewhere that the SC-28 is better then the SC-17 since the cord comes out of the side of the hot shoe attachment but I see no problem with it coming out of the front, still just as easy to use and out of the way.
 
Do you have a multimeter at hand? If it is a SC-17 clone, it should be easy to identify the flaw. It is just a dumb bit of multicore cable and plugs, without active electronics inside, so it can only be a issue of missing, misplaced or wrongly wired pins...
 
Do you have a multimeter at hand? If it is a SC-17 clone, it should be easy to identify the flaw. It is just a dumb bit of multicore cable and plugs, without active electronics inside, so it can only be a issue of missing, misplaced or wrongly wired pins...

It's an sc-28 clone the best I can tell. I have a good multimeter at work and can test it on Sunday, what do I need to look for?
 
It's an sc-28 clone the best I can tell. I have a good multimeter at work and can test it on Sunday, what do I need to look for?

Connectivity between the matching pins/pads and ground/frame, plus possibly the shoe/cable switch (if there is one hidden in the frame and/or jack).

First of all, do a visual test whether the pin positions line up with the shoe on the Leica. Many third party TTL flash cables place their pins in compromise locations so that the same cable can be sold for a range of camera brands, just by putting another sticker onto it. It is possible that such a generic cable compromised in a way that did not account for Leica's variation of the five-pin arrangement.
 
I bet it's defective. I have one that I got direct from China, and it works fine on my Nikons. I'd send it back for an exchange.

As sevo comments, maybe it's not going to work with a Leica . . . but I bet it's broken.
 
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