DR 50 on M5?

DNG

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Does the DR 50 work on the M5, or is the Closer focus interfere with the meter cell?

And, w/o the eyes, will the lens only focus to the standard 1m, and will not focus closer "Unless" you use the eyes?

Or should I consider the Non/DR 50 Cron based on the same formula?
 
The eyes have a lug, that will prevent the eyes from engaging. You can remove the lug, if you want to use the DR in close range.

You must use the eyes, if you are to see what you are focusing on.

The lens will not damage the meter cell, as when you are focusing in the close range, the lens is move away from the cell.

....Vick
 
The eyes have a lug, that will prevent the eyes from engaging. You can remove the lug, if you want to use the DR in close range.

You must use the eyes, if you are to see what you are focusing on.

The lens will not damage the meter cell, as when you are focusing in the close range, the lens is move away from the cell.

....Vick

The Lug near the round eye on the back?...

Yeah.. I see, that sits against the dip on the top plate on standard M bodies. OK...
 
The Lug near the round eye on the back?...

Yeah.. I see, that sits against the dip on the top plate on standard M bodies. OK...

That's right. The lug stabilizes the eyes by lodging against the top plate of an M3, M2, M4, M4P, MP. But the M6, M7, and the M5 are built a little higher and the lug clashes against the front surface. So you just unscrew it and put it in a safe place where it can be reclaimed by future generations that will, of course, be shooting film. :cool:
 
I own both the Leitz Summicron 50 DR and the Leica M5. In the normal focusing distances (from 1 meter to infinity) this combo work very well, the Summicron 50 DR is simply superb.
To work in the close focusing range (from 48 to 88 cm) the Leitz Summicron 50 DR request necessarily the proper goggle: is this goggle that is not compatible with the top cover of the Leica M5, but without the goggle, in the normal focusing range, the Summicron 50 DR is perfectly usable on the Leica M5.
Ciao,
Vincenzo
 
That's right. The lug stabilizes the eyes by lodging against the top plate of an M3, M2, M4, M4P, MP. But the M6, M7, and the M5 are built a little higher and the lug clashes against the front surface. So you just unscrew it and put it in a safe place where it can be reclaimed by future generations that will, of course, be shooting film. :cool:

My M6 don't needs to unscrew the lug
 
It works fine with the M6 (classic), not with the M6TTL. The TTL is 2mm higher, like the M7 is.
 
I own both the Leitz Summicron 50 DR and the Leica M5. In the normal focusing distances (from 1 meter to infinity) this combo work very well, the Summicron 50 DR is simply superb.
To work in the close focusing range (from 48 to 88 cm) the Leitz Summicron 50 DR request necessarily the proper goggle: is this goggle that is not compatible with the top cover of the Leica M5, but without the goggle, in the normal focusing range, the Summicron 50 DR is perfectly usable on the Leica M5.
Ciao,
Vincenzo

Remove the little stub thingie and all will be fine. Bigfoot loves the 50 DR Summicron with and without the Eyes. My best lens. Except for the flare. I know it will happen and I aim accordingly.

ps: The same lens and eyes worked flawlessly on Bubba now in the care of DNG.
 
@venchka

@venchka

Remove the little stub thingie and all will be fine. Bigfoot loves the 50 DR Summicron with and without the Eyes. My best lens. Except for the flare. I know it will happen and I aim accordingly.

ps: The same lens and eyes worked flawlessly on Bubba now in the care of DNG.

Bubba is doing fine... May not get the DR50, Just bought a Pany G1 and Oly 17mm Pancake.... :D
Gets a few rolls a month. I have some slide film too. Bubba seems OK with eating Slide film too, no complaints.
 
The M5 meter is the best for slide film.

You have to get used to it though. In the beginning I consistently underexposed because I wasn't used to the narrow metering patch and always compensated in my brain for nonexistent bright spots.
 
The M5 meter is the best for slide film.

You have to get used to it though. In the beginning I consistently underexposed because I wasn't used to the narrow metering patch and always compensated in my brain for nonexistent bright spots.

That's what I was thinking. I tend have some high lights in the metered area so it will place them a tad darker. With my DSLR on spot metering, this method seems to be the best compromise. But, I haven't sent off the slide film yet... but, I think that will work OK.
 
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