pevelg
Well-known
Two nights ago I loaded up my 35mm projector of my last trip to Alaska, shot with Kodachrome. Amazing, just lovely. Hmmm.... I started thinking. This trip I am taking on the 18th of June I was planning on taking only B&W for the M4 and shooting slides with the M7ii. As I was browsing film on bh, I saw Scala. Projecting B&W film? Must be incredible. As I started researching, I discovered dr5 Chrome which allows most B&W film to be converted to reversal films. So, I must make a decision...
1. Buy old Scala from bh at about $8 a roll.....
2. Use my current stock of TriX 400 with dr5 chrome processing...
3. Abandon all hopes of happiness and just settle for plain ol' regular processing of TriX.
Any input? Any examples of Scala and or dr5 from our members? Any input would be great. I need to make a decision by Sunday/Monday...
1. Buy old Scala from bh at about $8 a roll.....
2. Use my current stock of TriX 400 with dr5 chrome processing...
3. Abandon all hopes of happiness and just settle for plain ol' regular processing of TriX.
Any input? Any examples of Scala and or dr5 from our members? Any input would be great. I need to make a decision by Sunday/Monday...
jplomley
Established
I've been using dr5 for Ilford Delta 100 in the 4x5 format. Spectacular results, scans very cleanly. Highly recommended, but do pay attention to the recommended change in ISO.
msadat
Member
I am a scala fan. it is a film like no other, scanning took me a while to get it right. and freezer is full of scala!
pagpow
Well-known
+1 on the caution re DR5 and ISO recommendations. In addition, note that DR5 warns that Tri-X "ages" quickly, rendering the ISO number a bit variable. I have tried using DR5 three times because the idea of projected BW trannies was always attractive. Though I have rarely had problems w. tranny exposure (kodachrome and velvia) I was not happy w. my BW experience -- it looked underexposed.
My point is not to avoid it, but to try it and calibrate your shooting.
Never did get a chance to try Scala.
Good luck and let us know what you decide and how it turns out.
My point is not to avoid it, but to try it and calibrate your shooting.
Never did get a chance to try Scala.
Good luck and let us know what you decide and how it turns out.
pevelg
Well-known
I am a scala fan. it is a film like no other, scanning took me a while to get it right. and freezer is full of scala!
But would the dr5 chrome processing of standard B&W films equate to Scala? It seems the dr5 Chrome website states better quality from traditional B&W film. Have you tried a comparison? Do you have a link of some of your work with Scala? I know online scans won't compare to projected images, but it might give me an idea.
I've been using dr5 for Ilford Delta 100 in the 4x5 format. Spectacular results, scans very cleanly. Highly recommended, but do pay attention to the recommended change in ISO.
what lab do you use?
pevelg
Well-known
Oh *@#$, this is amazing!!!
Gary E
Well-known
I've tried DR5 with Scala and traditional B&W, both with good success. You really have to adjust your exposures to your liking and test it a few times to get it right. The only thing is the process isn't cheap, but if you like to see chromes on your light table this is the only way to see B&W the same way.
I shot most of my negs at rated speed or higher and was happy with the results. I never pulled or shot at slower than rated. I don't particularly like the sepia toned process, but YMMV.
I shot most of my negs at rated speed or higher and was happy with the results. I never pulled or shot at slower than rated. I don't particularly like the sepia toned process, but YMMV.
Kristopher
Established
If you can find Kodak Direct Positive Outfit chemistry kit, you can shoot TMAX 100 @ 50 and process it at home as slides pretty easly. The kit has been discontinuated last year, but you might be able to find one. Each kit process 12 rolls.
Also, there is instruction on Ilford website to process FP4 and PanF as slide with do it yourself chemistry.
Seriously, this is very easy to do at home, give it a try!
K
Also, there is instruction on Ilford website to process FP4 and PanF as slide with do it yourself chemistry.
Seriously, this is very easy to do at home, give it a try!
K
pevelg
Well-known
If you can find Kodak Direct Positive Outfit chemistry kit, you can shoot TMAX 100 @ 50 and process it at home as slides pretty easly. The kit has been discontinuated last year, but you might be able to find one. Each kit process 12 rolls.
Also, there is instruction on Ilford website to process FP4 and PanF as slide with do it yourself chemistry.
Seriously, this is very easy to do at home, give it a try!
K
Interesting. My only concern is that as I live in an apartment complex, I am limited in what I can do. Can this be easily done in the bathroom sink with ventilator on or window open?
Freakscene
Obscure member
Yes, you can use the Kodak reversal kit in a small, improvised home darkroom.
Also remember that Fomapan 100R is a reversal B&W product available in 135 format with a specific developer for it. It is one of the nicest and most distinctive B&W products available.
Film: http://tinyurl.com/2dwrm5v
Developer: http://tinyurl.com/2cn9fjk
You can see examples at the Fomapan 100R FlickR group: http://www.flickr.com/groups/91177917@N00/
Developed as positives, you need to match the dynamic range of the B&W film to the subject, and shoot like you would with a slide film, not like you shoot it as a neg. You lose some dynamic range, especially if you're used to printing with extensive dodging and burning or using multiple-pass scanning with subsequent manipulations.
Good luck, and show us how you go.
Marty
Also remember that Fomapan 100R is a reversal B&W product available in 135 format with a specific developer for it. It is one of the nicest and most distinctive B&W products available.
Film: http://tinyurl.com/2dwrm5v
Developer: http://tinyurl.com/2cn9fjk
You can see examples at the Fomapan 100R FlickR group: http://www.flickr.com/groups/91177917@N00/
Developed as positives, you need to match the dynamic range of the B&W film to the subject, and shoot like you would with a slide film, not like you shoot it as a neg. You lose some dynamic range, especially if you're used to printing with extensive dodging and burning or using multiple-pass scanning with subsequent manipulations.
Good luck, and show us how you go.
Marty
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