Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
I have owned two Jupiter-12. IMO, they were better optically (except flare) comparing to overpriced Leitz Summaron 35 3.5, those I also have two and let them go as well. But Jupiter-12 was always driving me nuts with handling. Aperture scale is deeply inside of the lens front and aperture numbers, dot are next to invisible. On the street I was also getting my fingers on negative, because focus ring is on the front edge.
Adding of generic hood solved two and half problems. Flaring is reduced, fingers are not getting into the frame and adding of aperture scale on masking tape allows to set aperture normally.
I also added cable tie for fast focusing without looking at the focus scale.
This is my third Jupiter-12, which was given to me as gift from Russian RF Club member, forum moderator - Maxim Aleshin. It is made in 1950 and after CLA it is smooth to focus and solid in handling. I shimmed it for M, Jupiter-12 is most easiest lens for it and for CLA as well.
Adding of generic hood solved two and half problems. Flaring is reduced, fingers are not getting into the frame and adding of aperture scale on masking tape allows to set aperture normally.
I also added cable tie for fast focusing without looking at the focus scale.
This is my third Jupiter-12, which was given to me as gift from Russian RF Club member, forum moderator - Maxim Aleshin. It is made in 1950 and after CLA it is smooth to focus and solid in handling. I shimmed it for M, Jupiter-12 is most easiest lens for it and for CLA as well.
xayraa33
rangefinder user and fancier
I just used my J-12 on my Fed 5 this morning to finish a roll of film in the camera.
Adjusting the aperture ring was a pain, as I normally use a UV filter on the lens, but not on this occasion. I use the UV filter mainly to make the aperture changes easier by providing a larger surface to grip.
Adjusting the aperture ring was a pain, as I normally use a UV filter on the lens, but not on this occasion. I use the UV filter mainly to make the aperture changes easier by providing a larger surface to grip.
brennanphotoguy
Well-known
I had no idea these lenses were so freaking cheap. I think this will solve my "super cheap LTM lens" issue I have for my IIIg...
nukecoke
⚛Yashica
Same trick here.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Industrar-22 is another candidate to meet this criteria.
It worked straight, no modifications on IIf.
Finding the spark. by Kostya Fedot, on Flickr
Friday interior, old, but superior. by Kostya Fedot, on Flickr
brennanphotoguy
Well-known
Industrar-22 is another candidate to meet this criteria.
It worked straight, no modifications on IIf.
Finding the spark. by Kostya Fedot, on Flickr
Friday interior, old, but superior. by Kostya Fedot, on Flickr
Yeah, I looked into that one too. I already have a Nikkor 50/1.4 SC on the IIIg but I wanted something wider than 50mm because I normally shoot my 50DR on an M3. Plus, I want this combo to be small enough to fit in my coat pocket during the winter or take up a very small portion of my bag during the rest of the year. I'd prefer no collapsible stuff either. The Industar-69 sounded good till I realized it was for half frame cameras :bang:
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Internal hood which is acting as aperture ring is adjustable for how far it will go from the lens. On the lens I have shown here I made it seat as deep as possible to avoid vignetting with hood. But opposite is possible and it gives about four millimeters for the grip.
xayraa33
rangefinder user and fancier
Industrar-22 is another candidate to meet this criteria.
It worked straight, no modifications on IIf.
Finding the spark. by Kostya Fedot, on Flickr
Friday interior, old, but superior. by Kostya Fedot, on Flickr
Careful Ko Fe, the I -22 lens is not a super quality precise German un-coated Elmar, worthy to be placed on a Leica body, according to some.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Also looks much poncier!
Cheers,
R.
Cheers,
R.
David Hughes
David Hughes
As they say in France "Défense de Ponce" ;-)
Regards, David
Regards, David
David Hughes
David Hughes
I have owned two Jupiter-12. IMO, they were better optically (except flare) comparing to overpriced Leitz Summaron 35 3.5, those I also have two and let them go as well. But Jupiter-12 was always driving me nuts with handling. Aperture scale is deeply inside of the lens front and aperture numbers, dot are next to invisible. On the street I was also getting my fingers on negative, because focus ring is on the front edge.
Adding of generic hood solved two and half problems. Flaring is reduced, fingers are not getting into the frame and adding of aperture scale on masking tape allows to set aperture normally.
I also added cable tie for fast focusing without looking at the focus scale.
This is my third Jupiter-12, which was given to me as gift from Russian RF Club member, forum moderator - Maxim Aleshin. It is made in 1950 and after CLA it is smooth to focus and solid in handling. I shimmed it for M, Jupiter-12 is most easiest lens for it and for CLA as well.
Hi,
That cable tie is a good idea and not just for the J-12. Thanks.
Regards, David
PS Now if we could just persuade our Chinese friends to make a cable tie with the focusing tab part of it...
Highway 61
Revisited
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Mini size from http://www.lenstab.com/ will be more elegant, but if everything works (so far I have tested it on M-E only) I'm thinking of making tab from aluminium.
BLKRCAT
75% Film
good god what an ugly lens.
ckuwajima
Celso
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Not on this. But I have measured it with matching tool (FSU stangenzirkel).
ckuwajima
Celso
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
Very interesting, thanks, but some idea of the diameter would make them easier to buy...
Regards, David
ckuwajima
Celso
J12 focus barrel diameter is about 50.9mm, width 4.2mm.
brennanphotoguy
Well-known
Just bought one on eBay for $70. Time to get the IIIg out and about.