Early Nikkor-HC 5cm F2 Rigid LTM NKT, compared with Classic Sonnars

Sonnar Brian said:
It is counter-intuitive BUT goes back to the early days of optics where an Old Lens was noted to have better performance than a new one. The surface of the glass oxidizes, and forms a "Bloom" on the lens. It's not as calculated, not as even, and a bit more unpredictable. What I found: Blue just comes out deeper. My favorite lens, that used here: looked like Wax Paper when received. Cleaned up beautifully, and was very careful to be very gentle in cleaning the surfaces.

View attachment 4852461View attachment 4852462View attachment 4852463View attachment 4852464View attachment 4852465
Click to expand...
I have almost the same lens (nickel, black painted band), No.16289XX, uncoated. It was near mint when I got it (still is). Super fine lens. I have it on my black paint Nikon S2 (61709XX).
 
Last edited:
Erik van Straten said:
gelatin silver print (Zeiss Sonnar 50mm f1.5 No.16289XX) Nikon S2

Amsterdam, Oosterpark, 2024
View attachment 4854477
Click to expand...
Hey Erik, nice shot. I'm curious on how you use the Zeiss 50mm on the Nikon S2? Is it a Zeiss Sonnar designed for the Nikon, or is it a Contax mount lens? The reason I ask is I have a nice Zeiss Sonnar 5cm f2 in Contax mount from the late 1940's that I have been hesitant to try on my Nikon S2 as I was told it wouldn't focus properly.

Best,
-Tim
 
Timmyjoe, my lens is from before the war, there were no Nikons then. I´ve always thought that the Nikon S mount was the same as the Contax mount. Canon used the Leica thread, Nikon the Contax mount.

Here is a more closeup shot with the Zeiss Sonnar on the S2.



gelatin silver print (zeiss sonnar 50mm f1.5) nikon s2

Amsterdam, 2019
1737759225197.png
 
Last edited:
Rollin said:
Any insights if later black belt iterations of the LTM have better coatings, resolutions, etc. than earlier versions?
Click to expand...

coating comparison: late 1948 collapsible and 1961ish 50/2 black S-mount (same gen as the 'black belt' LTM) under diffused fluorescent lighting

IMG_1605.png
 
Adjusting the Sonnar to the Nikon S2 is much easier than adjusting the Nikon S2 to the Sonnar...

But I've done both.

Nikon S2 with Helical Shimmed and Rangefinder calibrated for a Sonnar 50mm F1.5, wide-open here.
The Post-War Sonnar is an amazing lens.

nikki_chinese_rest_1a.jpgnikki_chinese_rest_6a.jpg
 
Sonnar Brian said:
Adjusting the Sonnar to the Nikon S2 is much easier than adjusting the Nikon S2 to the Sonnar...

But I've done both.

Nikon S2 with Helical Shimmed and Rangefinder calibrated for a Sonnar 50mm F1.5, wide-open here.
The Post-War Sonnar is an amazing lens.

View attachment 4854527View attachment 4854528
Click to expand...
Nice images.

I'm confused. Do you adjust/shim the Zeiss lens or do you adjust/shim the Nikon S2 focusing helical?

Best,
-Tim
 
Timmyjoe said:
Nice images.

I'm confused. Do you adjust/shim the Zeiss lens or do you adjust/shim the Nikon S2 focusing helical?

Best,
-Tim
Click to expand...
You can do either, but adjusting the Lens is easiest.
Some 20+ years ago I bought a near-mint Nikon S2 from a collector. The helical was loose, missing two of the screws holding the helical to the lens and the shims under the screw were gone. I had to shim it anyway. I used MWS2 machine screws found at work, and decided to make it a Contax compatible Nikon. Shimmed the helical, then adjusted the rangefinder. I can use it with all my Contax mount lenses.

The easier thing to do- adjust the lens to your existing body. Easy for the West German Sonnars, which use a variable stand-off ring. Drop the barrel from the mount, unscrew it about 1/3rd turn, put back. For the Easy German lens and Jupiters- you need to make or find a shim, usually requires ~0.2mm. You need to re-index the aperture ring. If you find a shim that is 1/3rd of a turn, is easier: undo the 3 set screws, rotate 1/3rd stop, screw in- the original Taps can be used.

Another Sonnar with the Shim of the lens set, wide-open:
Full image and Tight crop, on my Nikon S3.
sonnar_14x_close_test_f15a.jpgsonnar_14x_close_test_f15b.jpgsonnar_14x_flowers1_f15a.jpgsonnar_14x_flowers1_f15b.jpg
 
Sonnar Brian said:
You can do either, but adjusting the Lens is easiest.
The easier thing to do- adjust the lens to your existing body. Easy for the West German Sonnars, which use a variable stand-off ring. Drop the barrel from the mount, unscrew it about 1/3rd turn, put back. For the Easy German lens and Jupiters- you need to make or find a shim, usually requires ~0.2mm. You need to re-index the aperture ring. If you find a shim that is 1/3rd of a turn, is easier: undo the 3 set screws, rotate 1/3rd stop, screw in- the original Taps can be used.

Another Sonnar with the Shim of the lens set, wide-open:
Full image and Tight crop, on my Nikon S3.
Click to expand...
Thanks Brian. My post-war Sonnar is a Jena lens, so I assume that makes it an East German lens. I've got a shop where I serviced motion picture cameras and lenses and putting in a 0.2mm shim shouldn't be a big deal. And thanks for the heads up on the aperture ring.

Best,
-Tim
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom