Huss
Veteran
Are u sure the focus screen is installed the correct side up?
Easiest to focus SLR?
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Are u sure the focus screen is installed the correct side up?
CMur12
Veteran
Old lubricant can also cause a lens to require more focusing effort. Often, a CLA of an older lens will make it focus more easily and smoothly.
I have a Pentax Spotmatic F and I don't find it especially easy to focus. It has the finer microprism that works well with slower lenses, but it is relatively dim and it has no more snap than my Minolta SR-Ts, let alone a Minolta with an Acute Matte screen.
- Murray
I have a Pentax Spotmatic F and I don't find it especially easy to focus. It has the finer microprism that works well with slower lenses, but it is relatively dim and it has no more snap than my Minolta SR-Ts, let alone a Minolta with an Acute Matte screen.
- Murray
David Hughes
David Hughes
The answer is, surely, yes and no. Optical designs are usually a compromise as so many factors come into it.
I mentioned that your eyes change as you get older; the camera maker may have done a bit of research and discovered most of his customers are elderly and so the VF design favours old gits; others may decide to add a little adjustment and so on.
Equally and as an example, lenses on cameras are sometimes designed for all over sharpness or else centre sharpness; some designers may sacrifice something else to get the same result and so on.
Other makers may sell a lot of wide angle lenses and few telephoto and so the VF will favour WA lenses and so on and so on.
So as I see it the resulting set-up suits some people but not others. And, of course, it's best if the camera and lens have just been serviced properly...
Regards, David
analogpics
Well-known
analogpics
Well-known
I haaaate when i get a lens and it's difficult to move the focus ring, but these nikon lenses on the other hand, need just a bit more resistance for me
Pál_K
Cameras. I has it.
Right - a certain amount of resistance is necessary not only for tactile feedback, but for a situation similar to where you focus, then move your hand to adjust aperture or whatever - you don't want the focus ring to move if you brush it slightly
It's odd that some of my pre-AI Nikkors are a bit loose in focusing but some of my old CZ lenses for Exakta are stiff. In both cases disassembly and relubrication is required.
It's odd that some of my pre-AI Nikkors are a bit loose in focusing but some of my old CZ lenses for Exakta are stiff. In both cases disassembly and relubrication is required.
analogpics
Well-known
Well, second roll from the Nikon F2 came out noticeably better. Used the 50mm 1.4 AI this time and shot everything between 1.4 and 2.8. Took a bit more time moving the focus ring this to *hopefully* have more precise focus and i think it worked 🙂 Of course had a few random blurry shots, but the percentage was much better.
I also noticed i compose differently with having a completely clear screen. Definitely one of the pros for the H2 screen. Well maybe roll three will be the deciding factor in if i keep this camera or not.
Few friends are trying to convince me to go the pentax lx or nikon fm3a route, knowing i dont do great with larger cameras, but the F2 isn't as big as i thought, and i may eventually try the DE-1 prism to lighten the weight a bit
Exactly, I may ask my repair guy if he can help add some friction to the focus ring in my Nikkor lenses.
I also noticed i compose differently with having a completely clear screen. Definitely one of the pros for the H2 screen. Well maybe roll three will be the deciding factor in if i keep this camera or not.
Few friends are trying to convince me to go the pentax lx or nikon fm3a route, knowing i dont do great with larger cameras, but the F2 isn't as big as i thought, and i may eventually try the DE-1 prism to lighten the weight a bit
Exactly, I may ask my repair guy if he can help add some friction to the focus ring in my Nikkor lenses.
Pál_K
Cameras. I has it.
All that is needed is the proper weight of grease for the lens in question and it will feel right. It should last for decades.
The FM3a - or even the FM - gives me 98% of what I need in a camera. Actually, the FM3a's viewfinder with it's colored match needle scale is a pleasure to use (also similar to Nikkormat EL and Nikon FE2). The F2 can become an addiction due to its capabilites - but it can be cured.
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analogpics
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There was a guy down in san diego that had an fm3a for $500 including a cheap zoom lens and some other bits. Sad i wasnt able to get that one, but hopefully can find a good deal on one later. I do have an FE2 and FM2 that i was considering selling both to get one FM3a lol
Wow, which focus screen do you like best for your F2s? One thing i do like about these F2s is on the dp1(?) prism it has the needle meter readout on top as well. If i'm shooting fully manual, i prefer dialing in the exposure before bringing the camera up to my eye (like on my kodak retina iiic)
Pál_K
Cameras. I has it.
Four of my F2's have the A screen, which I don't like with my slow pre-AI telephotos because one half of the split area goes black and you have to move your eye angle to try to make it become clear - or just rely on what you see.
The fifth F2 has an E screen, which is wonderful to use.
Info here:
https://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf2/screens/index1.htm
An F2 with a plain DE-1 is elegant and less clunky than a DP-1 with its mechanical connections to the lens and shutter speed dial. DE-1 finders in nice condition are expensive, but they are cool.
An F2A or F2AS allows you to use AI(S) lenses wide open and avoid the prong connection for metering, but if you ever do use a pre-AI on an F2A or F2AS, you have to meter in stop-down mode. With an F2 Photomic or F2S, you can meter any lens wide open.
analogpics
Well-known
Have you ever tried an H1 screen? That article says "For most lenses with focal lengths of 85mm or less." which is pretty much what i would i be using. Wonder if that would be a better fit than the H2(?)
Pál_K
Cameras. I has it.
Well, my first ever Nikon was a new F3/T and, among the brochures and data sheets that came with it, I learned about the H screens. That interested me only because I felt the standard screen was inferior to that of my old SP500. This was the late 1980's and it took over a year for me to get that H2 screen - even then I had to get a Nikon rep acquaintance to help me get it.
After using the F3/T, I learned about the F and F2 and decided I wanted an F2. F2's became an obsession for about a decade. However, due to my trauma of waiting for the H screen, I never pursued getting H screens for the F2's.
I notice that chart referenced on MIR recommends neither H1 nor H2 for the 50/1.4 (my most often used lens) - however I'm certain the actual Nikon data sheets I looked at back in the 1980's led me to the H2 specifically. I'll have to check later today.
dtcls100
Well-known
I have the H1, H2 (2x) and H3 screens. The H1 is great with my 28 f2.8 AIS lens, but the finder vignettes alot with my 50 f1.2 lens. The H2 focusing screen seems to work well with the 28 f2.8, the 50 f1.2, and pretty much all of my Nikon and Tamron SP manual focus lenses. The H3 is a bit better for long, slow lenses (like my Tamron SP 300 f2.8 with 2x teleconverter). As a practical matter, I just leave the H2 screen in as a default.
steveyork
Well-known
In my experience (eg, Leicas R3, R6, R7, Leicaflex series, Nikons F, F2, F3, Contarex Bullseye, Topcor R, Minolta X700), the easiest to focus was the Leicaflex SL, followed by the SL2 and then the Nikons F and F2. The SL has this crazy, magical viewfinder; 0.9 magnification with a two-layer micro prism focusing screen; where the image just pops into a focus in a dramatic fashion. Very there dimensional. One of those things you have to experience to appreciate.
Generally, the camera with a higher viewfinder magnification, the easier to focus.
Generally, the camera with a higher viewfinder magnification, the easier to focus.
Pál_K
Cameras. I has it.
Hmmm... it's a nice viewfinder, yes. Mine doesn't pop dramatically into focus - rather it slyly introduces itself and beckons me to release the shutter.
The Olympus OM is similar, but brighter. It's a bit surprising to hold the small OM camera to your eye and see such an expansive image.
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analogpics
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analogpics
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Ok, so i brought all of my slrs back out today and just focused on a bunch of different objects in both bright and low light....nothing touches the microprism in the x700. It's not subtle/fine like the rest of the microprisms i have, it really really lets you know when something is in focus or not. Wonder if there's a way to have the focus screen adjusted to fit into an xd11...
Pál_K
Cameras. I has it.
X700... interesting. That's one camera I've seen a lot of, but never handled.
XD-11... Nice.
XD-11... Nice.
CharlesDAMorgan
Veteran
My XD7 (XD11 in the US) has an acute matte screen, and I believe they were standard. It is the same brightness as my X500. I took my XD7 out for a photo walk the other day and I would say, while it appears more solid than the X500, the manual metering mode of the latter is far superior and I find both in A mode underexpose more than I'd like in higher contrast scenes, so I use manual way more.
If you do want an XD11 go for a later one which is much better sorted - you can tell by exposure compensation button, which is located between the ASA dial and the prism on the later ones, and is to the left of the asa dial and sticks out from the body on the earlier ones, which in addition to shutter issues suffer from camera covering sagging and shrinkage.
If you do want an XD11 go for a later one which is much better sorted - you can tell by exposure compensation button, which is located between the ASA dial and the prism on the later ones, and is to the left of the asa dial and sticks out from the body on the earlier ones, which in addition to shutter issues suffer from camera covering sagging and shrinkage.
analogpics
Well-known
Ahhh thats interesting, i took out my xd11 and x700 and noticed the xd11 is noticeably dimmer (Maybe its my copy?). I agree with you about the manual metering being better in the x500 (mine's the x570 but i believe they're the same?).
I didn't realize there's a difference in the earlier/later XD11! Looks like i have an earlier model. What kind of shutter issues do they suffer from? Is it that strange shutter lag?
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