Huss
Veteran
Developed for 4 minutes @ 75. 30 second initial agitation, then 10 seconds on the minute, 1 extra turn at the 30 second mark. DF seems prone to bromide drag through the sprocket holes unless that is done.
Shot with a Rollei QZ35W P&S which allows manual ISO settings down to ISO 6.
Of note: the film was bought already rolled at 36 exp. It was short - only 34. And it was very tight - the last few frames taxed the motor and the spacing became very narrow. And the emulsion seemed damaged - lots of tiny white spots that were not from dust or development (had not seen this issue with any other films I have processed).
I have 5 rolls left, but if the others are short and damaged like this one, then I've lost interest in it. Which would be a bummer as I like the results.
Shot with a Rollei QZ35W P&S which allows manual ISO settings down to ISO 6.
Of note: the film was bought already rolled at 36 exp. It was short - only 34. And it was very tight - the last few frames taxed the motor and the spacing became very narrow. And the emulsion seemed damaged - lots of tiny white spots that were not from dust or development (had not seen this issue with any other films I have processed).
I have 5 rolls left, but if the others are short and damaged like this one, then I've lost interest in it. Which would be a bummer as I like the results.
Huss
Veteran
Forgot to mention - it turned the DF96 green. Hope it's ok as it was a new bottle.
valdas
Veteran
As far as I remember Efke KB also has the same green thing. It does not affect the developer.
shawn
Veteran
Looks great. Foma 100 in 120 comes out green too. I usually do a 1 minute water bath presoak to get rid of most of it.
Shawn
Huss
Veteran
shawn
Veteran
I just made it part of my developing for all films, harder to forget that way. Added bonus is as a tempering bath to get everything at the right temperature before the developer goes in.
Shawn
Huss
Veteran
Hmm, thinking it through because I use reusable Monobath, it would get diluted but the water left over from the wash. After a few rolls of doing this.
steveyork
Well-known
I've had film discolor fixer, including this 5234, Eastman SO 331, Fomapan 100 in MF and Astrum. The Astrum was red -- cool. It's just due, no effect on chemicals. I keep a separate batch of fixer, in a small bottle, which I use for films known to discolor. Usually it's a one shot developer for me.
I don't have any D96, but I recently developed 5234 in FX39 (1:9 for 8 min) and it went very well. I've tried some other developers too, but I haven't had much luck is pushing the film.
I don't have any D96, but I recently developed 5234 in FX39 (1:9 for 8 min) and it went very well. I've tried some other developers too, but I haven't had much luck is pushing the film.
Huss
Veteran
The now green DF96 had no issues developing some other films.
agentlossing
Well-known
Using DF96 with Foma 100 and HP5 I never really saw any beneficial results from pre-soaking, so I stopped doing it. I actually pre-soak my tank either holding water or stuck in the sink so it's brought to temp so it doesn't affect the temperature of the DF96 when I pour it in.
I've found with films like Foma 100 that like to show bromide marks that they are best developed at 80 degrees with constant agitation, the quickest recommended method in the literature. No uneven development near the sprocket holes when doing it that way.
I've found with films like Foma 100 that like to show bromide marks that they are best developed at 80 degrees with constant agitation, the quickest recommended method in the literature. No uneven development near the sprocket holes when doing it that way.