Electro 35 for infrared?

[wupdigoj]

Hello. I have exposed an efke820IR roll film using an SLR and a BW 092 filter and it is a real pain (compose, focus, screw in the filter, take the filter out, compose...). I measure the light with a handheld meter. Is it possible to use a E35 for this task with reasonable results?. I mean, with reasonable exposition accuracy. According to my first roll, this film is really slow, about 1-3 ISO with filter. Perhaps masking the meter window with a filter piece?. The real problem is you never know what speed the camera has chosen, so it is difficult to judge it in advance, without actually exposing the film. If anybody has tried this, it could be very useful for me (the film is expensive!). Thanks

Javier

 

[Al Kaplan]

SLR cameras are not ideal for I.R. film. Using any kind of meter isn't going to be all that accurate because the amount of I.R. in relation to visible light varies. The meter reads visible klight. It's usually a matter of bracketing to get good exposure in anything other than direct sunlight.

Considering the cost of I.R. film you might be best off with a all used manual 1970's vintage rangefinder camera. Filtering the meter sensor may or may not work.

 

[sevo]

Glueing filter across the sensor window might work - but it might prove hard to get it light tight. Some later Electro series models like the CC had the meter window within the filter thread. I've successfully used the CC with IR film - but for IR comfort with any camera, you'd have to readjust the rangefinder.

For that reason, my personal IR favorite is the Mamiya Super 23 - IMHO medium format is better suited to the grainy Efke 820IR, and thanks to its extra rear bellows it is trivial to compensate for the IR focus shift.

Sevo

 

[Gottfried Sandow]

quote: The real problem is you never know what speed the camera has chosen, so it is difficult to judge it in advance, without actually exposing the film.

You said it already yourself: you never know the exposure time.
So AUTO-mode is no option for you will easily go over the 30 sec.s maximum that the 35 can handle. But you can go for the B-mode and measure the time with a wrist watch or sth.else. Should be the safest method....

Good luck with it.

Gottfried

 

[sevo]

30s is quite a bit - with the 35/1.8 on the CC I've rarely needed more than 1-2s, and did sometimes even get down to 1/8s.

Sevo

 

[f16sunshine]

The best FLRF for IR is the Konica S2. Full manual operation is possible . The lens is marked for IR focus and has a slide out hood.. I shoot Rollei IR400 using a R72 filter with mine. Usually bracket 3 frames . The electro CC would work well as suggested. That camera has a stupid 2 leaf aperture system. I've had some ugly elogated diamond ghosts in some frames when stopped down.

 

[wupdigoj]

Thanks to all for your answers. I agree a rangefinder full manual camera is the best, but I already own too many cameras <img>. I don't think I could use the B setting, at least in the sun. I think I will try it with my retina II, if I figure out how to attach the filter, as hand holding it is also a pain. The slow speeds are not very consistent, so this is also a concern with this camera.

I agree also that this film is grainy. I purchased three 35mm rolls to test it, but my next purchase (if any) will be 120. No problem with it, I own two excellent all manual 120 folders, so I don't have any excuse to buy another one <img>.


Javier

 

[bsdunek]

For that reason, my personal IR favorite is the Mamiya Super 23 - IMHO medium format is better suited to the grainy Efke 820IR, and thanks to its extra rear bellows it is trivial to compensate for the IR focus shift.

Sevo

I use my Mamiya Super 23 for IR. The lenses I have have an IR focus mark on them. You just focus normally and then move the distance to the little "R". Always worked for me, and much easier than trying to adjust the bellows.