Electrolytic chrome removal?

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rxmd

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Hi,

there must have been a thread on electrolytic chrome removal for repainting cameras somewhere, but I can't seem to find it. Does anyone have experience with the following:

- electrolytic processes that strip both chrome and nickel,

and

- electrolytic processes that strip *only* the chrome, but leave the nickel in place for easier repainting?

The electrolytic approach seems to be the easiest and most thorough to me that doesn't involve mucking around with acids.

Philipp
 
I've never done it myself, but Modern Photography had a short write-up on it decades ago. They produced a Black paint Contax II using this process. As I understand it, this process will not work on all chrome plating if it has been treated afterwards. Worth some experimenting with.
 
I stripped the chrome from the top and bottom plates of an Olympus 35RC using reverse plating. For a "tank" I used a 2 gallon plastic bucket about half full of water with some table salt dissolved in it. Using a battery charger I attached the positive lead to a copper strap suspended in my plastic bucket. The negative lead was attached to the plates being stripped. Using about 6 volts this process was eventually successful. It took some time. The nickel under the chrome plating was not completely stripped. I learned from some plating websites that nickel is particularlly resistant to stripping and my experience bears this out. Don't be concerned about taking off the nickel as nickel can be painted over.

Good luck with your project.

Steve
 
On the contrary, in fact I'd like the nickel to stay on as far as possible precisely because it can be painted over. :)
 
If you use the wrong primer, that's correct. :)

Modern primers are nearly translucent. This isn't primer gray like on automobiles.
 
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Because these are old, have dings, dents, deep scratches, pitting and various other flaws. To get these problems fixed, it's best to go down to the brass. And it's much easier to primer them instead of replating with nickel.

I'm working on a Nikon that had an attempted Jupiter lens mounting, which caused a deep scratch thru the chrome and nickel partway around the lens mount. Just one example.
 
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Why not?

When it's part of a restoration, you fix it along with the other flaws.

I don't paint cameras just to pass time. :) A nice clean chrome camera that is in excellent shape should remain chrome.
 
I suggest that once the chrome is gone, don't bother trying to strip the nickel. You can use a self etching primer on any bare metal. Some primers, referred to as "high build', or "surfacers" are formulated to fill minor scratches, pits and other imperfections in the surface. Self etching primer is not high build primer. Use only the thinnest possible coat. If you can see through the primer that is what you want. Always be sure that your primer and top coat are compatible. A lacquer top coat may lift a primer formulated to be used with enamel.

Fred, where do you source nitrocellulose lacquer? I would really like to try that paint and process.

Steve
 
Digitalintrigue, I agree that for a restoration you want to repair the imperfections of the camera as far as possible. For a resto. I fill dents, pits, and scratches. Right now I am faced with a Pentax H3 with original factory black paint. My decision for this camera is whether to do a full blown resto. and repaint or whether to approach this project as a conservator, and leave the brassing, pits and bubbling paint alone. Granted this is not a high value camera, but as it is with all it's flaws it has a vibe too which I don't want to lose. For now I am inclined to only clean the paint. I suppose I can always paint it later.

Steve
 
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rxmd said:
Hi,

there must have been a thread on electrolytic chrome removal for repainting cameras somewhere, but I can't seem to find it. Does anyone have experience with the following:

- electrolytic processes that strip both chrome and nickel,

and

- electrolytic processes that strip *only* the chrome, but leave the nickel in place for easier repainting?

The electrolytic approach seems to be the easiest and most thorough to me that doesn't involve mucking around with acids.

Philipp
Click to expand...

You have to strip the camera all the way down to the brass. You can't really paint on the nickel and expect it to stick.

I used these guys:

www.acmeplating.com
 
After you sand it off, you fill it, and then paint it. Voila. But we aren't talking collectibles. We are talking taking a 'user' and making it a 'presentable.' ;)

Many restored cars are worth MUCH more than their original counterparts. Depends on many factors. This may or may not compare to cameras.
 
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