Electronic light meter lifespan

Whateverist

Whateverist

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Does the reliability of an electronic light meter degrade over time? I'm looking for a simple light meter and considered an older model, but I'm not sure how useable one from, say, the nineties would be.

Any recommendations for an affordable model ($100ish if possible) would also be welcome :)
 
I have a Minolta Auto Meter IV which I bought new in the nineties , and I like it a lot , it's still precise and fast and doesn't consume much and uses only one AA battery . Also have a Sekonic Studio Deluxe since the eighties , but much prefer the Minolta for convenience . Good luck !
 
Forgot to say : only in very cold temperatures the Minolta didn't work properly , guess the Sekonic was better for that .
 
They last half way to forever. I have Weston Master selenium meters from the 50s that still work, and a CdS LunaPro/LunaSix that still works when I can find the batteries. My newest Gossen meters probably date from the 90s and still work fine. Better still, they run off AAA or 9V block batteries.

Cheers,

R.
 
It really depends on what it has been through. Technically they are fully capable of being good (and even as accurate as on day one) for a hundred years, but a leaked battery might take them out within two years, and a drop on a hard surface could kill them instantaneously. For all the sensors common in photography, light sensitivity is no property which ages - if any, it is the packaging that will fail.
 
LunaSix F or Weston Master III

LunaSix F or Weston Master III

The in-camera Cds-based meters of the '60's tend to fail, but if you are very determined it is possible to have them replaced, as cells can still be bought from industrial electronic suppliers.

Like Roger I also have an original '60's Cds-based LunaSix that is still accurate on my stock of new mercury batteries. The Gossen LunaSix was a very high quality unit and has lasted longer than other makes.

Selenium meters are now getting a bit long in the tooth. George at Quality Light Metric has just completed the servicing of all my Weston Masters - 1x Master 715 (1939-45); 1x Master II (black, US, 1946); 2x Master III (black, UK, 1956); 1x Master IV (UK, 1960); as well as my two Gossen LunaSix F's.

Interestingly the selenium cells of my 1950's UK Sangamo Weston Master's had the highest output. I threw out 12 other assorted Westons with poor cells, including many IV's, V's, Euro-Master's and Euro-Master II's. These were mostly quite battered. The smaller selenium cells in the older Westons (I, II, III) appear better sealed and live longer than the later types (IV, V, EuroMaster, EuroMaster II).

Here's a good page on the Weston Master III:

http://www.lungov.com/wagner/c/052c.html

I enjoy using and can recommend the Weston Master III. I would go for the late-model black enameled UK type. This very late version has a white scale. Get one that looks brand-new, preferably in the original box.

Here's the breakdown on Weston Master features:

Weston Model - Aperture - Film Speed Scales

late Master I f/1.5-32 Weston
early Master II f/1.5-32 Weston
late Master II f/1.1-32 Weston
UK Master III f/1.1-32 Weston, EV
US Master III f/1.0-32 Weston, LV, Polaroid
Master IV f/1.0-32 ASA, EV
Master V f/1.0-32 ASA, EV, DIN

Master's I-IV are rated in foot-candles

Master's V-onwards are rated in log-LV (like earlier cine's)

Master I, II & III UK - have dial lock.
Master III US - no dial lock

Master III UK - has std f/stops highlighted (1.4, 2, 2.8, etc.)
Master I & II - do not.

Weston Master cell response test:

- point the meter at a light source that causes it to read "50" on the low scale with the baffle covering the selenium element open, then close the baffle without moving the meter. If all is well the meter should still read "50" on the high scale.

For better low-light performance and a better chance at finding a good one try a Gossen LunaPro F. This model takes a 9v radio battery and uses a silicon photo diode. These are commonly available for $50-100 and have a huge arrange of clip-on attachments - measuring probes, tele finders for semi-spot metering etc.
 
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I'd advocate for a Sekonic Twinmate or Gossen Digisix (not my taste but still useful) on the cheap end or a Sekonic L-358. I prefer the latter because it is a direct-read meter that can be operated with one hand.

I disagree that that meters last forever. CdS meters go downhill over time because the photocells degrade (sometimes subtly, sometimes spectacularly), and many (like the original Luna-Pros) use obsolete mercury batteries, whose voltage (and response) is different. Converting these (or recalibrating them) can cost just as much as the difference between a cheap old meter and a used good silicon-cell one.

Selenium cells eventually go bad (and when they go, they are generally not economical to repair).

Meters with mechanical scales can be pretty flaky (like older spot meters).

Dante
 
E.M said:
I have a Minolta Auto Meter IV which I bought new in the nineties , and I like it a lot , it's still precise and fast and doesn't consume much and uses only one AA battery . Also have a Sekonic Studio Deluxe since the eighties , but much prefer the Minolta for convenience . Good luck !
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Same here. Even after a crash to the concrete floor a few years ago my Minta IV works perfect even though it looks like it's been in a war. I think I bought mine in the 80's when they came out. I have an old Selonic Studio Delux too that's one of the first and it still works great.

I just bought a Weston Ranger 9 and sent it to Quality Light Meyric for calibration and conversion to a modern battery. It now works perfect.

I'm sending 2 Leica MR4 meters to Mr Milton at QLM this week.

Dante mentioned the cost of calibrating and upgrading the battery in older meters. Yes it's not cheap, the Ranger 9 was almost $100 by the time I got it back but what can you buy in a good meter for $100. It's now as new and good for another 40 years.
 
Although there have been light meters that were not as eternally lasting as others, I think sevo and Mr. Hicks are correct. What I think takes down most light meters is how they are handled. Don't drop them, don't point them into the sun every day, and they should last.

I have a Gossen Luna Pro, Luna Pro SBC, and a Luna Pro F. I don't even know their history as I got them off ebay, but they all work well, within just over a stop of each other, and have for the 7 or 8 years I have had them. I also have a Sekonic Studio Deluxe L28c2 that I have had since 1977. I dropped it once and it would only work when on its side. I eventually dropped it again, and it works perfectly again (not that I recommend that as a repair method :p).

My father's old GE meter, sadly no longer works.
 
My Sekonic from 1993 still works perfectly, as would my Minolta Spot Meter if the battery hadn't corroded (need to get that cleaned up).
 
Don't waste your time and money on old ones.
Where are new ones under $100.
I have one from Sekonic, 208 model, looks like old with nice and useful analog scale. They sale the on-ebay - new, well under $100 with shipping included.
You could also find more advanced, freshly made, but used one for $100. Like 308 one.
 
Whateverist said:
Thanks for all the replies. I guess these light meters are more bulletproof than I gave them credit for.
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MUCH more, at least with the high quality ones, especially Gossen. It's normally mechanical damage or corrosion that does them in, or bad electro-mechanical interfaces (switchgear -- often corrosion again). A few very old meters (especially selenium from before maybe 1960) may be inaccurate for one reason or another, usually defective swing-needle movements, but mostly, they either work as well as they did when new, or not at all.

Where are you?

Cheers,

R.
 
I have a Luna Pro, I was given it as a gift at my birth I believe. As far as I know I have always had it.
 
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