Element separation: should I be wary buying this?

[Takkun]

Hello all,
I'm in the market for a faster lens. The screwmount CV 35 Skopar has been a mainstay of mine for a while, but ever since I got a 50 1.4, I've been itching for some faster glass. Particularly because I don't like pushing and I shoot more and more evening light.

I did a quick search on everyone's favorite auction site and found this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-35mm-...20578237?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item2a319693bd

If you look at the 3rd photo, you can see the defect mentioned in the listing.

What can I expect optically and durability wise?

I was originally planning to trade the Skopar in for an Ultron I spotted for an incredible price at a local shop, but sadly my lens took a nose dive, denting the hood and causing the nameplate on the front to fall off, so I don't think I could recoup costs so easily with such cosmetic damage.

 

[Vickko]

Separation at the edge of the lens is almost irrelevant as far as picture-taking ability is concerned. If you want a user lens, it will be fine.

But the separation will kill the resale value of the lens.

Make sure you buy it cheap. Really really cheap.

 

[colyn]

I'd pass.. Separation will only get worse. And edge separation contrary to popular belief does affect image quality..

Getting it fixed is expensive..

 

[peterm1]

I would only consider a lens in this condition if it were cheap. For obvious reasons bearing in mind its not in prime condition. I think there has in the past been some firms who have offered services rebalsaming lens pairs and other repairs like polishing and re coating but its likely to be hard to find firms who do this and quite expensive. (I have not heard of these firms for quite a few years).

 

[BLKRCAT]

Talk to John at Focal Point lens. They do lens seperation repairs as well as polishing and recoating.

http://www.focalpointlens.com/fp_intro.html

 

[goamules]

Canon made a lot of these and they're good. Just buy one in the condition you want, they're not expensive.

 

[SolaresLarrave]

Some years ago, I bought an Elmarit 28mm f2.8 with separation in the front element. John Van Stelten at Focal Point repaired it for $250. I still have that lens. In fact, I did use it for a few weeks before sending it for repair and cannot complain about the results.

To answer your question, it's already at a relatively low price. Can you swing the cost of the repair? Look up Focal Point and consult with John. He'll give you an estimate (just keep in mind it's an estimate, not a final figure).

If I were in your shoes, I'd buy it.

 

[Takkun]

Thanks everyone. I really appreciate the advice before an impulse buy. It's great to know that there's a company out there that fixes this sort of thing; I always thought it was the kiss of death for lenses.

I'm not too particularly attached to the Canon specimen (though I absolutely love the 50 1.4, which sold me on vintage optics); just looking for something faster and with a little more character than the Skopar.

http://www.glazerscamera.com/store/used-voigtlander-35mm-f1-7.html
I've got night classes tonight and I am probably going to head up and take a look at this. I'll probably buy it, see if I love it, and then decide. Everything listing for Canons I see ends up being around the $500 mark.

 

[bonatto]

How about a Nokton 35mm 1.4 S.C?

 

[Highway 61]

I'd pass.. Separation will only get worse. And edge separation contrary to popular belief does affect image quality

What he said. Edge separation like that will produce random lateral flare on some photos, especially when you don't want any flare to pop out.

That's not a bad lens (I quite used to like mine) ; but at $290 you can find one without separation.

But even without separation, this isn't a specially good lens.

Try something else.

And - the CV Skopar 35/2.5 will be way better wide open than this Canon at f/2.8...

 

[Takkun]

I've lusted after a Nokton for quite some time, but I don't fancy the bokeh and the $200 premium isn't justifiable to me.

I definitely know the Skopar is a great lens--sharp, good contrast, and best of all, small, but I'm really itching for something faster these days.

 

[bonatto]

I've lusted after a Nokton for quite some time, but I don't fancy the bokeh and the $200 premium isn't justifiable to me.

I definitely know the Skopar is a great lens--sharp, good contrast, and best of all, small, but I'm really itching for something faster these days.

I really think the Nokton is a strong contender. I had the Skopar, didn't keep it long. The 200 premium means modern glass, and you really won't risk losing much if you decide to re-sell it. It's a bit more expensive, but I think it's a smarter buy if you want fast glass. The Ultrons I see around are LTM and quite a bit bigger than the Nokton.

Nokton 35mm S.C. at f1.4 1/45s ISO800 R-D1s

The Nokton might be sticking around for a while.

 

[Highway 61]

I definitely know the Skopar is a great lens--sharp, good contrast, and best of all, small, but I'm really itching for something faster these days.

The Skopar is f/2.5, the separated Canon you've been after is f/1.8 : 1 stop between the two. Not worth it.

Especially given that the Canon ain't really good between f/1.8 and f/4.

If you want something "faster" than f/2.5 you need to go for an f/1.4 lens.

Speed isn't everything. It also depends on how really usable wide open your fast lens will be. This is the key. If your fast lens only becomes good when you stop down once or twice, WTF ?

Just think of how much the superlative C-Biogon 35/2.8 has become popular... for some very good reason. It's a terrific lens, it's compact, and, moreover, it's better wide open than many f/2 35mm lenses stopped down to f/2.8...

 

[DNG]

With a choice from f/2, f/1.7, f/1.4, with most films, a 1 stop difference in exposure, is no big deal... IE: ISO 400, f/2, that should be f/1.4, with an f/2 lens is no big deal for the most part... the film has pretty good exposure latitude for under exposure that is still developed for ISO 400.
Don't know what developer you use, but I use HC110 1:60.. (Dilution H for the most part). And my TMax 400 at 400, shows good results from 1/3stop over to about 1 stop under (ISO 320-800) If I needed to do that in a pinch.
Using 10.5 min at 20c as my base temp starting place.

So, if you use f/2 mostly, then get the VC 35mm f/1.7 it is a great lens.. it is almost f/1.4, with f/1.7 instead of f/1.4 being within the film tolerances.

 

[Takkun]

Update: I went with the Ultron. I cut a deal with them, and got an adapter plus caps for 399, and the lens is in pristine condition.
Sadly, the Skopar is too brasses for them to want to trade in...so I'll be keeping it for the time being.

 

[bonatto]

Good stuff man! Enjoy it, not a bad price!

 

[joeswe]

The CV lenses are prone to some sample variation and the Skopar 35 is unfortunately no exception. So, if your Skopar performs well, then stick to it for the times when size and weight matters.