Elmarit 2.8 framing issues

DMLH1

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May 5, 2008
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Hi
In spite of the fact that it is a 'new' lens with 6 bit coding and I am using my M8 with the "lens detection on" setting selected, I find that the framing of my end-product images using my Elmarit-M 2.8 28mm lens is quite different to the framing I see in the viewfinder when composing the shot. If, for example, I align an object on one extreme of the framing lines in the viewfinder, that object is never at the edge of the image but always ends up inside the frame. I had thought this might be the digital camera multiplication factor but am confused as the actual picture taken is invariably wider than the frame lines. It is making composition quite difficult and I don't want to crop every single picture I take. Am I doing something stupid? Can anyone help?
Thanks in advance.
 
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Hi, I have just bought the same set up and can confirm what you're seeing.
No you're doing nothing wrong.

The framelines are calibrated for 0.7m, this means that the framing is most accurate at its closest focusing distance.
As you focus further away the image covers a larger area than the frame you're seeing.
As any lens is focused from near to far it effectively crops a larger portion of the image.
The frames in a M camera cannot zoom to show this, though you will be able to see them move in towards the lens to help with parallax error.
If you're new to rangefinders this will come as a bit of a shock!

The only cure I'm aware of is to use it frequently and, hopefuly, you'll find that you become used to what it will deliver. (or only shoot close ups; )
That said, I've found the 28mm to be particularly 'generous' compared to my 35 or 50mm.
As I understand it, previous M camera frames were calibrated for 1m and so were largely more accurate at further distances.
I certainly found my M6 frames matched more closely in the range that I generally shoot (3-5m) I'm not sure why they opted for this set up in the M8, I'm not overly happy with it but getting used to it.
I'm sure there are many better informed people than me here though, hopefully they can help.

Cheers,
Ivan
 
When shooting at 3-5 m mentally add 3 frameline widths for a 28 mm lens. That will help you approximately. Shooting at infinity add a bit more, etc. You'll soon get the hang of it
That other M cameras were adjusted to 1 m is correct, but it is not the whole story.
Because of chimping we get an immediate comparison, with film the exact original framing is usually forgotten by the time one sees the image.
Most labs will crop generously when enlarging your negative, even if you do your own darkroom work the negative carrier of the enlarger will crop about 1mm off the edges.
So will a slide mount.
With digital, what you see is what you get.
 
older Elmarit

older Elmarit

My 28mm, f2.8 is a little older and when i showed it to the Leica people they suggested I immediately upgrade. god knows why, it still shoots fine, EXCEPT in low light. Then, it is horrible. No matter how still I hold, what aperture, ISO, all that, the subjects i want sharp are not. It's quite annoying. I'm pretty much happy with 35mm, 50mm, and 21mm of the M8. Any other lenses drive me nuts.
 
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