GWT
Established
I've just picked up a ensign selfix 820 which I'm really looking forward to using, before I pop in a roll I just wanted to ask a question -
Does it need any light seals on the film door?
It doesn't look like there were any there in the first place but I was just wondering.
Also the slowest speeds stick. Although i don't imagine that I'll use them I was wondering how easy it would be to fix them, DIY style?
Does it need any light seals on the film door?
It doesn't look like there were any there in the first place but I was just wondering.
Also the slowest speeds stick. Although i don't imagine that I'll use them I was wondering how easy it would be to fix them, DIY style?
jdriffill
Established
No, it does not have any foam light seal in the back door. I have 2 of these, and they are not intended to have foam seals in there. The Epsilon shutter seems to be notorious for getting gummed up and slow speeds sticking. I do not know how to do a diy repair on it however.
culturesponge
registered member
congrats on the new acquisition, if the shutter is working okay except for the slowest speeds (that are not needed?) - i'd put a roll of film in & see what comes out.
but if your planning on using the camera often, it might be better to have that Epsilon shutter professionally serviced - oxidized circa 1950's grease may likely cause it to fail eventually.
something on Classic Camera Repair Forum regarding the Epsilon shutter on the Ensign 16-20 ...which is very similar:
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/forum/messages/2/18224.html?1268330062
best
alex
but if your planning on using the camera often, it might be better to have that Epsilon shutter professionally serviced - oxidized circa 1950's grease may likely cause it to fail eventually.
something on Classic Camera Repair Forum regarding the Epsilon shutter on the Ensign 16-20 ...which is very similar:
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/forum/messages/2/18224.html?1268330062
best
alex
citizen99
Well-known
In case it helps, there is a set of strip-down photos of the Epsilon shutter here, including removal of a lens cell housing, that might be too tight for friction tools to unscrew, from a Selfix 820. If on the other hand the cell is not too tight in the shutter you might be able to use a strap wrench 
.
.
oftheherd
Veteran
If you are somewhat adept, you might want to try cleaning it with naptha, then adding a small amount of lubricant back where it appears to be needed. You should remove the lenses, and probably even the shutter, but you might get away without doing that.
GWT
Established
Thanks for the info and links guys, much appreciated!
seany65
Well-known
I was going to start a new thread but I think it may be best to use this and turn it into a 'general questions about the ensign selfix 820' thread.
I've got a non-rangefinder 820 and while I'm no good at judging distances, I do have a good medis rangefinder. Both it and the 820 are marked in feet, but the distance markings are not quite the same. This isn't so bad at the short end, but the problem really shows up at the far end. on the lens it goes '15.....25......inf', the 'DOF scale' on the top plate goes "15.....25...40...inf' and on the rangefinder the scale goes "15..20..30..i..50..inf". with 'i' being a horizontal mark I think equal to 40 feet, but with no room to show the '40'.
What I want to know is:
1) Am I right in thinking that half-way between the 15 and 25 on the lens would be about 20 feet?
2) Does anyone know exactly what distance ensign thought 'inf' was at? 'Cos if they thought it was at 50 feet then I should set the lens to 'inf' if the rangefinder says '50', yes?
Any help would be much appreciated.
I've got a non-rangefinder 820 and while I'm no good at judging distances, I do have a good medis rangefinder. Both it and the 820 are marked in feet, but the distance markings are not quite the same. This isn't so bad at the short end, but the problem really shows up at the far end. on the lens it goes '15.....25......inf', the 'DOF scale' on the top plate goes "15.....25...40...inf' and on the rangefinder the scale goes "15..20..30..i..50..inf". with 'i' being a horizontal mark I think equal to 40 feet, but with no room to show the '40'.
What I want to know is:
1) Am I right in thinking that half-way between the 15 and 25 on the lens would be about 20 feet?
2) Does anyone know exactly what distance ensign thought 'inf' was at? 'Cos if they thought it was at 50 feet then I should set the lens to 'inf' if the rangefinder says '50', yes?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Steve M.
Veteran
Yes, between 15 and 20 would be 20 feet. But before you waste a roll of film not knowing if the focus is accurate, why not calibrate your camera first?
If you have a piece of ground glass, take the back off the camera and lay the glass over the film rails on either side of the film chamber (w/ the ground glass side facing towards the front of the camera) and w/ the camera mounted on a tripod, or at least taped down to the top of something like a table, wall, something like that. The shutter needs to be held open for this. If you don't have ground glass, take some Scotch Magic tape and place a couple of pieces pulled tautly over those rails.
Then point the camera at something at least 100' away and get the thing focused clearly at that by peering at the image on the back of the glass/tape w/ a loupe. You can use any old camera lens turned backwards as a loupe. At that point you have infinity. Then to get the distances, use a tape measure and place something to focus on at the distances you're interested in, which might be 25', 15', and whatever the minimum close distance the lens can focus to. Make marks on the lens outer rim to know where these distances are, or loosen those tiny grub screws on the outer bezel and align the distance markings on them to correspond to the distances you have marked out. Those screws are often really tight and require a good screwdriver, so it's often a lot easier to just a marker pen to make your own markings.
That's about it. You have now calibrated the lens, and will get sharp photos, but remember to stop the lens down. Medium format lenses need this more than 35mm in order to give sharp pics. If your camera is relatively close to the markings as it is, just leave it be would be my advice, and stop it down a little more when shooting to cover focus accuracy.
If you have a piece of ground glass, take the back off the camera and lay the glass over the film rails on either side of the film chamber (w/ the ground glass side facing towards the front of the camera) and w/ the camera mounted on a tripod, or at least taped down to the top of something like a table, wall, something like that. The shutter needs to be held open for this. If you don't have ground glass, take some Scotch Magic tape and place a couple of pieces pulled tautly over those rails.
Then point the camera at something at least 100' away and get the thing focused clearly at that by peering at the image on the back of the glass/tape w/ a loupe. You can use any old camera lens turned backwards as a loupe. At that point you have infinity. Then to get the distances, use a tape measure and place something to focus on at the distances you're interested in, which might be 25', 15', and whatever the minimum close distance the lens can focus to. Make marks on the lens outer rim to know where these distances are, or loosen those tiny grub screws on the outer bezel and align the distance markings on them to correspond to the distances you have marked out. Those screws are often really tight and require a good screwdriver, so it's often a lot easier to just a marker pen to make your own markings.
That's about it. You have now calibrated the lens, and will get sharp photos, but remember to stop the lens down. Medium format lenses need this more than 35mm in order to give sharp pics. If your camera is relatively close to the markings as it is, just leave it be would be my advice, and stop it down a little more when shooting to cover focus accuracy.
seany65
Well-known
Thanks for the advice Steve.
johnnyrod
More cameras than shots
The focus scale is a bit of a pig on the 820. They really should have put the DoF scale alongside it - I ended up marking my own on, using a DoF table from a 6x9 Super Ikonta instruction manual:
DoF scale by John Rodriguez, on Flickr
there is also a second picture from the other side. As ever with old cameras, the DoF is a bit enthusiastic by about a stop.
DoF scale by John Rodriguez, on Flickrthere is also a second picture from the other side. As ever with old cameras, the DoF is a bit enthusiastic by about a stop.
seany65
Well-known
@johnnyrod, even though I've decided to not keep mine, I don't think I'd have trouble looking at the DOF scale on the body and estimating where it is on the lens. I'd just have trouble knowing if I was focused correctly. Which of course would mean faffing about with a focusing screen and measuring distances and stuff as Steve M. says, which I just can't be a*sed doing.