RichC
Well-known
sbaruche said:can you confirm that the modern elmar 2.8/50mm can be safey collapse
Sylvain, I've not seen this lens, but I'm pretty sure it can collapse safely. Just make sure that the the collapsed tube doesn't extend past the lens mount more than 20.5 mm.
As I mentioned in my aricle, the worst that can happen is the lens tube will hit a protective ledge in front of the shutter.
dcsang
Canadian & Not A Dentist
Nice site and information
Thanks 
Now how do I get one of these R-D1's
(and shush.. don't tell FrankS that I'm thinking of it)
Dave
Now how do I get one of these R-D1's
(and shush.. don't tell FrankS that I'm thinking of it)
Dave
mwooten
light user
Great job Rich, very well done!
Take care,
Michael
Take care,
Michael
willie_901
Veteran
Kudos on you RD-1 site. It is a significant source of information on the R-D1.
I have one question. Doesn't the R-D1 use the Nikon D-100 sensor rather than the D-70?
willie
I have one question. Doesn't the R-D1 use the Nikon D-100 sensor rather than the D-70?
willie
RichC
Well-known
Oops!willie_901 said:Doesn't the R-D1 use the Nikon D-100 sensor rather than the D-70?
I've corrected this mistake, and I've found out the precise sensor (Sony ICX413AQ): http://www.richcutler.co.uk/r-d1/r-d1_14.htm
Also, thanks to those who've suggested changes, spotted mistakes or supplied extra info: keep the feedback coming!
ZorkiKat
ЗоркийК&
Great work, Rich!
Quoting above from your blog, there is a way to make one out of an ordinary DSLR. I've been able to 'dominate' my Canon 350 D (and 300D) by setting it to M and ignoring the other modes, except perhaps AV, and fitting a manual focus with manually set aperture M42 lens on it. Most M42 lenses have the scales and everything else which would make it totally passive to your whims and desires
The 350D is small and tiny. For all intents, a DSLR fitted with a manual focus lens and used only in its manual mode works just like a traditional, all-manual film SLR. Lag is limited to the mirror action, just like what an old-fashioned 35mm SLR would have. No time is lost with an AF lens trying to find focus or the camera's circuits trying to decide which sort of exposure it should have for a particular situation.
Yes, manual focusing is really difficult with the screens found on the Canon 350 D. I've replaced the screens in my Canon DSLRs with split screens scavenged from parts which came from old manual focus SLRs. This entails some effort, but one which is not different from what will be required when adjusting the R-D1. I also am looking at the possibility of getting an adapter equipped with an emulator chip which will activate the camera's focus confirmation.
My converted-to-manual DSLRs and the R-D1s go hand in hand; both take me back to the days when shooting was simple and uncomplicated
I became increasingly disatisfied with my 10D: I wanted a camera that I could dominate totally, not one that made decisions for me.....Unfortunately, no one makes a compact, basic digital SLR with manual controls. I can, of course, turn off automation in my 10D, use small prime lenses, etc., but modern cameras don’t make this easy (manual focusing, for example, is awkward, with no split prism and no depth-of-field markings), and I would still have to contend with the camera’s bulkiness.
Quoting above from your blog, there is a way to make one out of an ordinary DSLR. I've been able to 'dominate' my Canon 350 D (and 300D) by setting it to M and ignoring the other modes, except perhaps AV, and fitting a manual focus with manually set aperture M42 lens on it. Most M42 lenses have the scales and everything else which would make it totally passive to your whims and desires
The 350D is small and tiny. For all intents, a DSLR fitted with a manual focus lens and used only in its manual mode works just like a traditional, all-manual film SLR. Lag is limited to the mirror action, just like what an old-fashioned 35mm SLR would have. No time is lost with an AF lens trying to find focus or the camera's circuits trying to decide which sort of exposure it should have for a particular situation.
Yes, manual focusing is really difficult with the screens found on the Canon 350 D. I've replaced the screens in my Canon DSLRs with split screens scavenged from parts which came from old manual focus SLRs. This entails some effort, but one which is not different from what will be required when adjusting the R-D1. I also am looking at the possibility of getting an adapter equipped with an emulator chip which will activate the camera's focus confirmation.
My converted-to-manual DSLRs and the R-D1s go hand in hand; both take me back to the days when shooting was simple and uncomplicated
Attachments
Plasmat
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One thing I can't see in removing the top cover.
How do you get the menu selector gnurled knob off? There's a screw with two little "pinholes".
Do you use a tiny spanner wrench? I can't get it off and I'm afraid to force it.
How do you get the menu selector gnurled knob off? There's a screw with two little "pinholes".
Do you use a tiny spanner wrench? I can't get it off and I'm afraid to force it.
LCT
ex-newbie
Congrats Rich, i didn't have enough time free to read it all but yours looks like a great site indeed.RichC said:...keep the feedback coming...

About 'Collapsible lenses' might i suggest to warn that the current Elmar 50/2.8 can NOT collapse fully without touching something in the body when focus ring is set to infinity.
Same for the Elmar 50/2.8 from 1994 (M6J).
Best,
LCT
Plasmat
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I wrap a piece of electrical tape around the lens tube when a collapsible lens is extended.
That way, I won't accidently push it into the shutter.
That way, I won't accidently push it into the shutter.
RichC
Well-known
The selector knob doesn't have to come off to remove the top plate: the whole selector mechanism stays in the top plate. I'll clarify that on my website.Plasmat said:One thing I can't see in removing the top cover.How do you get the menu selector gnurled knob off? There's a screw with two little "pinholes".
PS: I assume it would come off with a pin wrench though.
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LCT
ex-newbie
Great minds think alike.Plasmat said:I wrap a piece of electrical tape around the lens tube when a collapsible lens is extended...

dcsang
Canadian & Not A Dentist
Hmmm.. has anyone, Rich or otherwise, used an alternative method such as the Copperhill method to clean the sensor on the R-D1?
Curious before he thinks about buying,
Dave
Curious before he thinks about buying,
Dave
RichC
Well-known
A blower suffices, usually. However, I've needed to clean it once thoroughly, and used my DIY sensor brush. See: http://www.prime-junta.net/pont/How_to/a_Brush_Your_Sensor/a_Brush_Your_Sensor.htmldcsang said:has anyone ... used an alternative method such as the Copperhill method to clean the sensor on the R-D1?
<rant on> I agree with everything that Petteri says: the commercial Sensor Brush folk talk pseudo-science rubbish, trying to baffle you with techno-babble. (I've a degree in a physical science, and companies/adverts (cosmetics ads come to mind...!) that use meaningless "science" to pull the wool over people's eyes annoys me intensely. </rant off>
Sorry... back to sensor cleaning. A DIY sensor brush is the quickest and easiest method for thoroughly cleaning a sensor. Other methods such as Copperhill are fine, but more laborious.
dreamsandart
Well-known
Would just like too thank Rich and everyone for all the R-D1 information available. Reading this thread last night and looking at Rich's help site I finally got around to adjusting the vertical alinement on my new R-D1 [ rather than send it in under warranty and wait ]. It wasn't out a lot, but the difference in ease of focus is much better and was very easy to do.
Thanks again,
Thanks again,
R
RML
Guest
Cleaning the sensor is easy with a cotton swab and some alcohol ketonatis (70%). I've cleaned my R-D1's sensor several times this way. I explained it all on my blog. As always, continue at your own risk.
rsl
Russell
Rich, thanks for the really useful information. The information on adjusting the rangefinder at infinity was especially helpful for me. My refurb R-D1 arrived with an incredibly dirty sensor and a rangefinder that was way out of alignment at infinity. It also had a very thick, adhesive-attached LCD protector. Had to remove the protector, clean the LCD screen and install a nice clear ScreenPatronus protector in its place. The sensor contamination wasn't dust; it evidently was oil. CopperHill cleaning cleared up that problem and your clear instructions on adjusting the rangefinder solved that one. Evidently the Epson R-D1 folks feel that "refurbish" means toss it into a box and ship it. Love the camera though.
ralgo
Newbie
i acquired a r-d1 a short time ago, having first been obliged to hand it to the repair shop!
many a question pops-up, concerning ............... and now, i have an answering location.
thank you, rich ............ and those who have supplied much of the data.
greetings to all, b.
many a question pops-up, concerning ............... and now, i have an answering location.
thank you, rich ............ and those who have supplied much of the data.
greetings to all, b.
Philip Whiteman
Well-known
Firmware upgrade is available from Epson site
Firmware upgrade is available from Epson site
May I echo the appreciation of your excellent information resource, Rich.
I too could find no version 2.0 firmware download on Epson UK's website – until a friend (thanks Etienne) pointed out that it could be got to via the R-D1 'FAQ' pages and, specifically, the question 'can I upgrade my R-D1 to the R-D1s?' http://http://esupport.epson-europe.com/FAQListing.aspx?lng=en-GB&data=F574FCB25EA26FB50358AC2CC6834B6AE813E64E4CCFD6698D3710F198E90E44&T=209
The dowload is there; it's just that it's well concealed. One more R-D1 becomes an R-D1s!
Firmware upgrade is available from Epson site
May I echo the appreciation of your excellent information resource, Rich.
I too could find no version 2.0 firmware download on Epson UK's website – until a friend (thanks Etienne) pointed out that it could be got to via the R-D1 'FAQ' pages and, specifically, the question 'can I upgrade my R-D1 to the R-D1s?' http://http://esupport.epson-europe.com/FAQListing.aspx?lng=en-GB&data=F574FCB25EA26FB50358AC2CC6834B6AE813E64E4CCFD6698D3710F198E90E44&T=209
The dowload is there; it's just that it's well concealed. One more R-D1 becomes an R-D1s!
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Gabeb
Newbie
Your taste in cameras & bikes
Your taste in cameras & bikes
EXCELLENT !
Thanks for the needed Epson resource - I had forgotten how beautiful the Vee Guzzis are.
Your taste in cameras & bikes
EXCELLENT !
Thanks for the needed Epson resource - I had forgotten how beautiful the Vee Guzzis are.
xoDox
Member
Super Angulon 21/3.4 is not a problematic lens!
Super Angulon 21/3.4 is not a problematic lens!
Hi Rich,
Great site and very informative. Thanks. Just a little comment regarding Super Angulon 21mm F3.4 lens. You mentioned SA as a problematic lens for R-D1. I 'm using it quite often with R-D1 and there is no problem attaching it to the camera -- just be careful. Perhaps this setup is not recommended for people with Parkinson's disease, but for the rest of us it's fine. With SA attached R-D1 loses auto exposure metering capacity, however, this is a small thing with digitals. Here is an example of the picture with SA 21/3.4.
Vassily
Super Angulon 21/3.4 is not a problematic lens!
Hi Rich,
Great site and very informative. Thanks. Just a little comment regarding Super Angulon 21mm F3.4 lens. You mentioned SA as a problematic lens for R-D1. I 'm using it quite often with R-D1 and there is no problem attaching it to the camera -- just be careful. Perhaps this setup is not recommended for people with Parkinson's disease, but for the rest of us it's fine. With SA attached R-D1 loses auto exposure metering capacity, however, this is a small thing with digitals. Here is an example of the picture with SA 21/3.4.
Vassily
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