Epson R-D1 vs. Leica M8

Epson R-D1 vs. Leica M8

  • Epson R-D1 or R-D1s

    Votes: 267 55.6%

  • Leica M8

    Votes: 213 44.4%
  • Total voters
    480
akptc said:
wait! wait just a minute! did you say you guys can buy a Ferrari for 36K USD ?? huh..
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No! Far from it! A Ferrari is very expensive in Norway. Due to taxes. But the net price before taxes 'has fallen with' 36,000 US $ (ca. 200.000 NOK - about 10%) since last year. - The price of a Scuderia has been stable in the last year in Euros, practically, but the NOK has strengthened towards the Euro. To compensate for the fall of the Dollar compared to the Euro Ferrari has to increase their prices with 25 - 30% in USA....
 
Olsen said:
No! Far from it! A Ferrari is very expensive in Norway. Due to taxes. But the net price before taxes 'has fallen with' 36,000 US $ (ca. 200.000 NOK - about 10%) since last year. - The price of a Scuderia has been stable in the last year in Euros, practically, but the NOK has strengthened towards the Euro. To compensate for the fall of the Dollar compared to the Euro Ferrari has to increase their prices with 25 - 30% in USA....
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oh, well, hopes dashed.. I guess I will keep driving that old Porsche for a while.. 🙁

Gabriel M.A. said:
I know! I think I found my retirement plan: buy in Norway, sell in the U.S.!
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hey, not a bad idea, I used to know a guy who did this (another EU country) but no clue how he dealt with US and EU taxes.. 😕
 
Gabriel M.A. said:
I know! I think I found my retirement plan: buy in Norway, sell in the U.S.!
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That would lead directly to bankruptcy. But there should be considderable business oportunities trading the other way. All from 2.hand camera equipment to Caterpillar tractors.
 
jaapv said:
I'm sure the considerable number of pro photographers using the camera would be highly surprised at this statement...


This is rather the opposite of the truth, for that kind of subject AF is very dodgy. It usually gets the plane of focus in an undesirable place (wingtip instead of a beak, goal-post instead of the ball etc.) Most specialized bird photographers I know prefer manual focus for flight shots.

I could not have gotten the shots in this thread, at least not as easily, using AF:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42261
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Quite so. The best Motor racing photographers I know mainly manually focus for exactly these reasons.
 
I am glad that I am out of the digital competition here.
If I would get the camera a gift, then I would prefer the M simply because it is a Leica RF camera.
 
Having handled an M8 in the shop for a brief period of time my immediate reaction was...."feels like a great camera...but the viewfinder sucks." Handling it in a shop for 10 minutes is by no means a way to come to any concrete conclusion regarding the viewfinder (or camera as a whole)....so I was wondering how M8 owners or those with experience with the M8 find the viewfinder...especially compared with the viewfinder on the R-D1 (my camera btw).
 
I have worked with the M8 several times and like it, also the viewfinder which is quite similar to that of M7 and MP. I even adapted my M6 with that viewfinder. - The one of the RD-1 resembles me to the old M6 viewfinder. Not bad - but the new one is better, esp. in bad light ...

Cheers,
dacaccia
 
jeffdkennel said:
Having handled an M8 in the shop for a brief period of time my immediate reaction was...."feels like a great camera...but the viewfinder sucks." Handling it in a shop for 10 minutes is by no means a way to come to any concrete conclusion regarding the viewfinder (or camera as a whole)....so I was wondering how M8 owners or those with experience with the M8 find the viewfinder...especially compared with the viewfinder on the R-D1 (my camera btw).
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Interesting, because I had the opposite reaction. I was playing with an M8 at the local photography store and thought it had a great viewfinder, much easier to use than my R-D1. (I am very nearsighted and wear glasses). However, it wasn't better enough to make me buy it - at least not yet!

/T
 
Tuolumne said:
Interesting, because I had the opposite reaction. I was playing with an M8 at the local photography store and thought it had a great viewfinder, much easier to use than my R-D1. (I am very nearsighted and wear glasses). However, it wasn't better enough to make me buy it - at least not yet!
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Try to find a diopter lens for the RD-1 viewfinder - the lenses of Nikon FM2/FM3A are fitting! I just bought one (I am shortsighted). Use it, and you will find out, that the Epson viewfinder isn't so much worse than the Leica one.

Cheers,
dacaccia
 
Frank Dernie ??? Oxfordshire, Motor racing....
hmm...

Ehi Frank, as a F1 fan, I want to know if you are "that" Frank !! It should be nice to have a famous F1 engineer here with us !! ;-D

Franco
 
dacaccia said:
Try to find a diopter lens for the RD-1 viewfinder - the lenses of Nikon FM2/FM3A are fitting! I just bought one (I am shortsighted). Use it, and you will find out, that the Epson viewfinder isn't so much worse than the Leica one.
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But you have to be careful!
As far as i know, with the correction lenses for FM2,3A etc. - at least with the original Nikon ones - you have to keep in mind that the stated diopter value is 1 dpt off.
This is due to the fact, that the FM2,3A etc. viewfinders are corrected to -1 dpt as default without an eyepiece lens. So if you buy a -4 dpt correcttion lens, it is really only a -3 dpt lens and that gives -4 dpt with the FM2 viewfinder.

To make it a little more comprehensible:
Code: 
stated dpt of the lens -> real dpt
+4 -> +5
+3 -> +4
+2 -> +3
+1 -> +2
0 -> +1
-1 -> 0
-2 -> -1
-3 -> -2
-4 -> -3
 
rancid said:
...the FM2,3A etc. viewfinders are corrected to -1 dpt as default without an eyepiece lens. So if you buy a -4 dpt correcttion lens, it is really only a -3 dpt lens and that gives -4 dpt with the FM2 viewfinder...
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You mean it is corrected to +1 no?
-4 + 1 = -3?
Just asking
 
Exactly, if the lens says -4 it is in fact corrected for -3.

This may not be the fact for third party correction lenses, so one better asks the seller/manufacturer before buying.
 
rancid said:
Exactly, if the lens says -4 it is in fact corrected for -3.
This may not be the fact for third party correction lenses, so one better asks the seller/manufacturer before buying.
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Not sure if it comes from the correction lenses. They have -1, +1, +2 etc. diopters per se and they don't cheat from this standpoint i guess.
As i see it the problem comes from the default setting of the camera. For instance if yours has a default setting of -.5 you must chose a +2 diopter if you need +1.5.
 
I'm not 100% sure either, but i read about that in some threads at photo.net. I am nearsighted with -3dpt and the -4 correction lens was a better fit on the R-D1s for me than the one with -3. Maybe it's just my eyes getting worse 😀
 
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