Stephanie Brim
Mental Experimental.
But it needs some adjustment. I know there are people here who do this, but I can't remember who they are at the moment. Anyone not working on a project right now who could possibly work a little magic on this lens?
Pherdinand
the snow must go on
err, i'd do it for you, but it might be complicated/expensive to ship that beast twice over the atlantic.
What adjustment?
What adjustment?
Stephanie Brim
Mental Experimental.
I'll know more when I develop the roll in the camera. I swear that it's backfocusing...but it may just be me.
captainslack
Five Goats Hunter
Where was it hiding at?
lmd91343
There's my Proctor-Silex!
Stephanie,
To double check the focus on your J9, do the following:
1) set your P with the J9 on a tripod
2) Set the shutter to T or B with a locking cable release
3) set the J9 to f2
4) open the back door of your P
5) place a piece of Scotch tape across the film gate
6) set the lens to 1.15m, move the tripod & P 1.15m (using camera's Focal Plane mark) from wall & use loupe to check focus on tape
7) set the lens to inf, point the tripod & P toward distant object & use loupe to check focus on tape
I've done this. This is simpler than it seems.
edit in orange
To double check the focus on your J9, do the following:
1) set your P with the J9 on a tripod
2) Set the shutter to T or B with a locking cable release
3) set the J9 to f2
4) open the back door of your P
5) place a piece of Scotch tape across the film gate
6) set the lens to 1.15m, move the tripod & P 1.15m (using camera's Focal Plane mark) from wall & use loupe to check focus on tape
7) set the lens to inf, point the tripod & P toward distant object & use loupe to check focus on tape
I've done this. This is simpler than it seems.
edit in orange
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Chris Lynch
Film Enough.
Lance, that is awesome. Very good info to know, and i thank you for sharing it!
Hamster
Established
Just out of curiosity, for FSU gear, for the distance marking on lens barrel, do they mean film plane - to - subject distance or is it some other measure?
So for example if I wish to collimate at 1.15m. I will have to tape measure 1.15m from the film gate to the subject?
So for example if I wish to collimate at 1.15m. I will have to tape measure 1.15m from the film gate to the subject?
lmd91343
There's my Proctor-Silex!
Hamster said:
I am sorry. I was not clear. Use the focal plane mark/film gate on the camera body.
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Stephanie Brim
Mental Experimental.
captainslack said:
The bottom of my camera bag under some film. Trust me...I was very relieved to find it.
Also, I really don't want to do it myself. I'm afraid that if I do I'll somehow botch it and the thing will be ruined and need to go off anyway.
GeorgesGiralt
Established
Hi !
"Also, I really don't want to do it myself. I'm afraid that if I do I'll somehow botch it and the thing will be ruined and need to go off anyway."
Here is another solution you'll be delighted to try :
Put a very good film in the camera (something with good reputation for fine grain/resolution like TMX or Delta100 )
Tape a page of newspaper on the wall, the part with the adverts printed in small letters. Have the paper as flat as possible on the wall. If you tension it a little, it will be flat and not tear.
Put the camera on a heavy tripod with a long cable release. Tape measure the distance from the camera (film plane) to the wall and try to have the lens axis at right angle from the wall.
Set the lens focus to the distance you've just found using the lens markings alone, take one pict wide open, another at 2 stops from wide open.
Take carefull notes of what you've done, now, focus using the rangefinder, repeat the pictures, one wide open, the other 2 stops more than wide.
Develop an print the roll (use only the central part of the negs).
If the lens markings are correct, the first picture will be fine and you can read the ads. If off by a little, the second shot will be fine, if off by more than a little, the second shot will be blurry.
The same reasonning apply for the rangefinder focused picts. But this time you check the rangefinder thruthness....
Bear in mind that you're not making arts shots but technical shots. So you need to keep the light measurement as accurate as possible. Overexposing will reduce a little the total resolution (film+lens) because light will "spread out" underexposing will make the negs so thin you can't read the ads.
Last, do not confuse lens softness with blurryness. It is something difficult, but when you see you'll know ! (this is why I advise at looking only at the center of the image, as the center is always better defined than the edges)
Have a nice sunday, with the newspaper !
"Also, I really don't want to do it myself. I'm afraid that if I do I'll somehow botch it and the thing will be ruined and need to go off anyway."
Here is another solution you'll be delighted to try :
Put a very good film in the camera (something with good reputation for fine grain/resolution like TMX or Delta100 )
Tape a page of newspaper on the wall, the part with the adverts printed in small letters. Have the paper as flat as possible on the wall. If you tension it a little, it will be flat and not tear.
Put the camera on a heavy tripod with a long cable release. Tape measure the distance from the camera (film plane) to the wall and try to have the lens axis at right angle from the wall.
Set the lens focus to the distance you've just found using the lens markings alone, take one pict wide open, another at 2 stops from wide open.
Take carefull notes of what you've done, now, focus using the rangefinder, repeat the pictures, one wide open, the other 2 stops more than wide.
Develop an print the roll (use only the central part of the negs).
If the lens markings are correct, the first picture will be fine and you can read the ads. If off by a little, the second shot will be fine, if off by more than a little, the second shot will be blurry.
The same reasonning apply for the rangefinder focused picts. But this time you check the rangefinder thruthness....
Bear in mind that you're not making arts shots but technical shots. So you need to keep the light measurement as accurate as possible. Overexposing will reduce a little the total resolution (film+lens) because light will "spread out" underexposing will make the negs so thin you can't read the ads.
Last, do not confuse lens softness with blurryness. It is something difficult, but when you see you'll know ! (this is why I advise at looking only at the center of the image, as the center is always better defined than the edges)
Have a nice sunday, with the newspaper !
Stephanie Brim
Mental Experimental.
Another good test is just to take random photos with the lens.
These are all taken at f/2.8 and 1/15 handheld. Steady hand. So far so good. I think I was worried over nothing.
http://mentalexperimental.org/?p=24
These are all taken at f/2.8 and 1/15 handheld. Steady hand. So far so good. I think I was worried over nothing.
http://mentalexperimental.org/?p=24
oscroft
Veteran
In the photo of the brick, the plane of focus is in front of it and focused on the fabric - is that what you intended?
I have to say that even with a steady hand, I'd don't think you're going to be able to hold an 85mm lens steady enough at 1/15 for critical focusing tests.
Best,
Stephanie Brim
Mental Experimental.
There's no way that I'd try that for critical tests...I just wanted to see if it was relatively on. I don't think I'm going to worry much over it for now...I think it's focusing correctly. My mind was just making things up in an attempt to foil my plans for the APX 25. 
Stephanie Brim
Mental Experimental.
Here. Photos inline so that you don't have to go looking for them.
