newfilm
Well-known
Hey guys,
I'm looking at this Tetanal Eukobrom
http://www.tetenal.com/index_c.htm?AKT=01120010003000200040&L=
It says can be dilute for 1+4 to 1+9, apart from that there is no information what does the dilution do? I mean apart from economical stand point. I'm also looking for the detail of the keeping quality of stock solution and work solution (how long can i put it in bottle between use).
The site also have a pdf detailing hazard handling for this item, but I can't find a application manual for it. Perhaps some one who has/is using this developer shine some light over it?
I also plan to use this with Foma Fomaspeed 311 paper, if that a good fit?
many thanks!
I'm looking at this Tetanal Eukobrom
http://www.tetenal.com/index_c.htm?AKT=01120010003000200040&L=
It says can be dilute for 1+4 to 1+9, apart from that there is no information what does the dilution do? I mean apart from economical stand point. I'm also looking for the detail of the keeping quality of stock solution and work solution (how long can i put it in bottle between use).
The site also have a pdf detailing hazard handling for this item, but I can't find a application manual for it. Perhaps some one who has/is using this developer shine some light over it?
I also plan to use this with Foma Fomaspeed 311 paper, if that a good fit?
many thanks!
BernardL
Well-known
Stronger dilution (1+4) should have shorter development time (==time when image does not evolve anymore; do test strips against dev time, dry, compare). And of course have higher capacity for an equal volume of working strength solution. But if you don't reach the capacity of one tray at 1+4 in one session (or maybe in two consecutive days) 1+9 is more economical.
Eukobrom tends to be cold tone. There are other developers giving good results. There is no magic bullet.
Eukobrom tends to be cold tone. There are other developers giving good results. There is no magic bullet.
Highway 61
Revisited
Eukobrom is an excellent paper developer. A working solution diluted at 1+4 will get tired less quickly than if diluted at 1+9. So, if you develop often, and, say, quite large sheets (24x30cm and above), dilute at 1+4 and you'll be able to develop more sheets than if diluted at 1+9.
On the contrary, if you seldom develop, and leave the working solution unused for long between two developing sessions (at the risk of getting it dead because of too long a storage), dilute at 1+9 and don't hesitate to make some fresh working solution for every new developing session.
Basically the developer is dead when it takes more than the double of the developing time for a properly exposed sheet to be fully developed (2 minutes and 30 seconds in general). The color of the developing bath will also tell this (yet, every developer will get dark after having developed a few sheets and this doesn't tell it's dead).
Eukobrom is not particularly more dangerous than any other paper developer.
True to say that Eukobrom is rather cold tone. Tetenal used to make a wonderful warmtone developer, the Neutraltyp. Unfortunately, it's gone.
I have found that Dektol (which I dilute at 1+3) was giving the same results as Eukobrom with the same kind of FB papers (I never use RC papers). So I'm now stuck with Dektol which, like its D-76 cousin, comes as a cheap powder in pouches which I can hoard somewhere...
On the contrary, if you seldom develop, and leave the working solution unused for long between two developing sessions (at the risk of getting it dead because of too long a storage), dilute at 1+9 and don't hesitate to make some fresh working solution for every new developing session.
Basically the developer is dead when it takes more than the double of the developing time for a properly exposed sheet to be fully developed (2 minutes and 30 seconds in general). The color of the developing bath will also tell this (yet, every developer will get dark after having developed a few sheets and this doesn't tell it's dead).
Eukobrom is not particularly more dangerous than any other paper developer.
True to say that Eukobrom is rather cold tone. Tetenal used to make a wonderful warmtone developer, the Neutraltyp. Unfortunately, it's gone.
I have found that Dektol (which I dilute at 1+3) was giving the same results as Eukobrom with the same kind of FB papers (I never use RC papers). So I'm now stuck with Dektol which, like its D-76 cousin, comes as a cheap powder in pouches which I can hoard somewhere...