raid
Dad Photographer
Lisbon





raid
Dad Photographer
more images
I tried a 2-stage PP approach.
1. reduce the purple
2. remove colors
Lugano, Switzerland
Lyon, France
Lisbon
I tried a 2-stage PP approach.
1. reduce the purple
2. remove colors
Lugano, Switzerland

Lyon, France

Lisbon



raid
Dad Photographer
I am tempted to stop using this lens on tbe M9 and switch to the M3 or M6 with film, just to see how different images I manage to get. I often used this lens at ISO 160-400, which can result in very slow shutter speeds. This may have contributed to some lack of sharpness too.
raid
Dad Photographer
raid
Dad Photographer
I hope that this thread is not boring most people here.
Examples from my Hologon.
Examples from my Hologon.





raid
Dad Photographer
I am now discovering issues with the camera settings with this lens. I almost always use ISO 160 or 320 when there is less light available, but such settings are too slow for an F 16 lens (with its ND filter) and the lens's coverage that often leads to under exposure when using aperture priority. Using overexposure is also not working well since this will wash out any details for the highlights. It works best when covering the entire frame with a shaded subject and without any direct sunshine in the frame. This old lens design is corrected for distortion but it is "not ready" for a digital sensor at a very close distance from the rear glass.
I have been trying out different PP settings to arrive at interesting looking final images. The last few posted images were processed with Perfect Portraits 9 after using LR to convert DNG to JPG files. I chose first the setting "160 NC" where almost all purple streaks disappear. I save this file. Then I use the adjusted file again with Tri-X B&W setting in Perfect Portraits 9. It seems to work well for many of the images, but not all. Some will come out with very dark edges. There, I tried using the Instant Film setting. It sometimes works well that way.
Any advice is welcome.
For color images, I need to download and use CornerFix or something similar.
I have been trying out different PP settings to arrive at interesting looking final images. The last few posted images were processed with Perfect Portraits 9 after using LR to convert DNG to JPG files. I chose first the setting "160 NC" where almost all purple streaks disappear. I save this file. Then I use the adjusted file again with Tri-X B&W setting in Perfect Portraits 9. It seems to work well for many of the images, but not all. Some will come out with very dark edges. There, I tried using the Instant Film setting. It sometimes works well that way.
Any advice is welcome.
For color images, I need to download and use CornerFix or something similar.
Emile de Leon
Well-known
Raid..you are getting a good education..in the realities of using an older ultra wide lens..and the all the problems inherent..
I got my wake up call..back in the day..when using a 165mm Rodenstock Pantagonal..on my 12x20 ULF camera..
I figure for myself..the main reason for getting an ultrawide ..is to get everything or most..esp the corners..in decent focus..as well as coverage..
But a lot of these lenses..really suck at this..sure they are ultra wide..but slow as all hell..and just become a pita to use w/o a center filter..and this slows down a slow lens..even more..
Basically..tripod lenses..
So..I decided to use a WATE for 35mm..which is a great compromise..
And a Schneider 210mm XL for large format up to 16x20..
The Schneider is awesome..on any format..but huge at 4lbs or so..
I haven't used the Hologon..but I can imagine what you are going thru..good luck w/it..
I got my wake up call..back in the day..when using a 165mm Rodenstock Pantagonal..on my 12x20 ULF camera..
I figure for myself..the main reason for getting an ultrawide ..is to get everything or most..esp the corners..in decent focus..as well as coverage..
But a lot of these lenses..really suck at this..sure they are ultra wide..but slow as all hell..and just become a pita to use w/o a center filter..and this slows down a slow lens..even more..
Basically..tripod lenses..
So..I decided to use a WATE for 35mm..which is a great compromise..
And a Schneider 210mm XL for large format up to 16x20..
The Schneider is awesome..on any format..but huge at 4lbs or so..
I haven't used the Hologon..but I can imagine what you are going thru..good luck w/it..
Mackinaw
Think Different
I hope that this thread is not boring most people here.
Examples from my Hologon.
Not at all. I just revisited this thread and these are some outstanding images. The B&W conversion technique you're using works quite well.
Jim B.
raid
Dad Photographer
Emile: Thanks for sharing your own experiences with extreme lenses. I can add a CV 15mm III to get easily nice looking color wide angle images. The Hologon may (I am stressing this word) provide me with an extra outlet for different looking images. Using a film camera would also solve all issues with the Hologon.
raid
Dad Photographer
Thanks, Jim. It is a hobby for me after all. I can play with such stuff. It is lots of fun.
robert blu
quiet photographer
This reminds me I still have anywhere a CV 12/5.6 I used time ago first on my Bessa R and later on the M7...maybe I should try on the M10 one day or easier shoot a film with the M7,..for now I'm busy learning the Summaron 
robert
robert
raid
Dad Photographer
Robert ... you should try it out. A 12mm lens must be fun to use. Imagine the possibilities! I have always been limited in wide angle RF lenses wider than 28mm.
robert blu
quiet photographer
raid
Dad Photographer
WOW! The 12mm lens looks like a useful lens, Robert.
Yes, the Hologon is somehow unpredictable. I will keep on exploring it.
Yes, the Hologon is somehow unpredictable. I will keep on exploring it.
raid
Dad Photographer
raid
Dad Photographer
In my smugmug site, the Hologon images are the ones being most looked at the past 7 days:
Name.........................Views
Europe_2018_Hologon...... 8195
M8 Rigid Summicron......1083
M8 Zeiss Hologon...... 208
Name.........................Views
Europe_2018_Hologon...... 8195
M8 Rigid Summicron......1083
M8 Zeiss Hologon...... 208
Corran
Well-known
165mm Rodenstock Pantagonal.
Still have it? I am looking for one for my 8x20. Ultrawide is my thing. I love my 47mm XL on 4x5. 305mm on my 8x20 is too loooong.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Usually I don't like anything after 20mm in results, but here it is very balanced.
raid
Dad Photographer
The Hologon has no distortion at all when used with a film camera. It does not display the usual side effects of a very-wide angle lens. This is the main reason why I got interested in getting this lens. It is very special.
raid
Dad Photographer
The first image shown (in color) is the last stage before removing all color.
Is this our Robert?
Is this our Robert?








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