bushwick1234
Well-known
How did you un-brick it? Is it possible?
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
More information please ... what camera?
I gather removing and refitting the battery has done little to alleviate the issue. My M8 would do this now and then but the battery trick always brought it back to life.
I gather removing and refitting the battery has done little to alleviate the issue. My M8 would do this now and then but the battery trick always brought it back to life.
fireblade
Vincenzo.
I think so, depends on the camera.
Were you updating the software when it happened?
Were you updating the software when it happened?
bushwick1234
Well-known
A Canon 5D MarkII was uploading latest firmware when the battery failed.....
Godfrey
somewhat colored
Only bricked camera I ever had was a Nikon 35Ti. A trip to Nikon Service unbricked it.
G
G
farlymac
PF McFarland
One of my Nikon D80's went toes up last Sunday. Bad thing is, it could one of many problems that can only be diagnosed by sending it to Nikon Repair. It's usually the main circuit board from the research I've done, and fixing that does not guaranty it won't happen again, because there are still other boards and sensors that can fail in the same fashion. Working one second, then Bingo! "ERR" "ERR" "ERR"
My other brick is a Nikonos IVa. Flooded with saltwater. No parts available. But it's a good looking brick.
One that is slightly bricked is a Nikkormat EL a friend gave me because it was seized up. Took a little bit of probing to find a lever inside that was out of position. But even with that repair, the meter is wonky, so it's basically useless, unless I take the battery out and use it with its one mechanical speed of 1/90.
PF
My other brick is a Nikonos IVa. Flooded with saltwater. No parts available. But it's a good looking brick.
One that is slightly bricked is a Nikkormat EL a friend gave me because it was seized up. Took a little bit of probing to find a lever inside that was out of position. But even with that repair, the meter is wonky, so it's basically useless, unless I take the battery out and use it with its one mechanical speed of 1/90.
PF
narsuitus
Well-known
Blind_spark
Established
Sometimes yes, sometimes no.
I'd always wanted a Contax IIa.
This was one that I bought online, and while it was very reasonably priced (>$100, and I got a perfectly nice 50mm Sonnar out of it), I should have asked a few questions before committing to something listed AS-IS.
Most Contax cameras I had handled previously (at shows, or when they popped up in the local shops) had simply suffered from lack of use. I'm fairly competent as a repairman so I felt I could handle it. However, this one had previously sat in its every ready case a damp basement. There was corrosion on the chrome (which wasn't visible in the pics due to the case) and in the film chamber. I knew I was up the creek when I got the top plate off.
Springs rusted apart, gears rusted solid, and someone before me had tried to force the wind-on knob and separated the curtains from the cords. I put it back together as shelf decoration.
If not for the lens, I would have been more inclined to try to reason some of my money back with the seller...
---
All that said, it was good practice - both in disassembling and repairing a Contax as well as being more discerning in online dealings. I'm happy to say the next IIa I got was much better. Easy to correct the sluggish speeds, not too much more expensive, and it's presently decorated with the previous camera's lens. It's one of my favorites, and I'd part with every other camera listed in my signature before that one.
I'd always wanted a Contax IIa.
This was one that I bought online, and while it was very reasonably priced (>$100, and I got a perfectly nice 50mm Sonnar out of it), I should have asked a few questions before committing to something listed AS-IS.
Most Contax cameras I had handled previously (at shows, or when they popped up in the local shops) had simply suffered from lack of use. I'm fairly competent as a repairman so I felt I could handle it. However, this one had previously sat in its every ready case a damp basement. There was corrosion on the chrome (which wasn't visible in the pics due to the case) and in the film chamber. I knew I was up the creek when I got the top plate off.
Springs rusted apart, gears rusted solid, and someone before me had tried to force the wind-on knob and separated the curtains from the cords. I put it back together as shelf decoration.
If not for the lens, I would have been more inclined to try to reason some of my money back with the seller...
---
All that said, it was good practice - both in disassembling and repairing a Contax as well as being more discerning in online dealings. I'm happy to say the next IIa I got was much better. Easy to correct the sluggish speeds, not too much more expensive, and it's presently decorated with the previous camera's lens. It's one of my favorites, and I'd part with every other camera listed in my signature before that one.
Chris101
summicronia
Bricked a Rolleiflex 3.5 when a spring in the shutter broke, and I tried fixing it myself. I got it back together, so it looks good on the mantle.
Kent
Finally at home...
I once "bricked" a nice Yashica-24. That cam has that "sensitive" shutter when it comes to the flash setting. And I made that one mistake. Result = shutter stuck. (It would have been possible to repair it, but it wasn't worth it to be honest. Gave it to a friend as a deco prop.)
02Pilot
Malcontent
Pioneer
Veteran
Certainly. I have a few bricked cameras sitting in the drawer at this very moment. If I can't fix it by changing batteries or throwing it against the wall I send it to an authorized repair person, or occasionally an unauthorized repair person, or to someone who just wants to learn camera repair. It all depends on the worth (not necessarily dollar value) I assign to the given item.
But usually they just sit in my drawer. If I live long enough I could have a drawer full of bricked cameras.
In your case, if the camera is worth it to you, send it off to an authorized Canon Repair Depot and they will be able to repair the camera.
But whatever you do, don't send it to me! You already know where it will end up.
But usually they just sit in my drawer. If I live long enough I could have a drawer full of bricked cameras.
In your case, if the camera is worth it to you, send it off to an authorized Canon Repair Depot and they will be able to repair the camera.
But whatever you do, don't send it to me! You already know where it will end up.
R
rick oleson
Guest
DownUnder
Nikon Nomad
farlymac (#6), does your Nikkormat EL function, without the meter, with the battery?
If yes, you can use it as a manual camera. As I do with two of my three.
Oddly, one of the pair occasionally starts to meter perfectly, does so for a while, and then goes all wonky again. Has done so for a few years now. Doesn't meter, otherwise shoots perfectly.
My camera repair shop man says it's not worth repairing, but as long as the speeds go on working OK, go for it.
Having to use an EL at only 1/90 is a bit like shooting with an upmarket Kodak Brownie, isn't it? :bang:
If yes, you can use it as a manual camera. As I do with two of my three.
Oddly, one of the pair occasionally starts to meter perfectly, does so for a while, and then goes all wonky again. Has done so for a few years now. Doesn't meter, otherwise shoots perfectly.
My camera repair shop man says it's not worth repairing, but as long as the speeds go on working OK, go for it.
Having to use an EL at only 1/90 is a bit like shooting with an upmarket Kodak Brownie, isn't it? :bang:
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Scrambler
Well-known
Battery failure in the middle of firmware update leaves the camera with no firmware (software) but should be correctable (by reistallation via external software) by a dealer repair centre.
farlymac
PF McFarland
Well, it's much better looking than a Brownie.
You know, I got a bit confused there about the fact it was aperture priority. Most cameras I have that are priority one way or the other, you can't set the non-priority manually, but you can on the three EL versions, as long as the battery is good.
That 1/90 only comes into play if the battery dies. I figured that since a lot of the time I may have a zoom lens attached, it would make it more difficult to use Sunny-16 for exposure calculation.PF