Exposing Eastman (Double-X) 5222 in the Leica

Mablo said:
Hi ipu, I've been wanting to get a 5222 bulk roll for a long time but haven't been able to track down a seller in EU. If you can find one please let me know. I'm located in Helsinki so we might even share postage charges for a couple of bulk rolls.
Click to expand...

sounds good, that would be great!! I am located in Rovaniemi, but once we get the rolls to finland, i think we can handle it from there.
I found this one place, but I haven't been in contact with them.
http://www.filmxchange.de/?pid=28&sub=1
I don't know how they work... if someone has ordered from them, please let me know, specially if you are located in the EU.

And by the way: Hyvää Juhannusta Kaikille!!! (Translation:Happy Midsummer to all!!!)
 
Last edited:
I have been trying out the Vestal Divided D76 for the last 45-50 rolls of XX. Seem to last a long time!!!!!
Formula from The Film Developing Cook Book and I took the recommendation by Anchell/Troop and omitted the hydroquinone.

A Bath

Formula:
Water (120F/50C) 1500 ml
Metol 6 gram
Sodium Sulphite 100 gram
Water to 2000 ml

B Bath

Water (120F/50C) 1500 ml
Borax 10 gram
Sodium Sulphite 100 gram
Water to 2000 ml

As with most divided D76 varieties, temperature in processing is not significant (20-23 C is fine) and they work best with continious agitatiom. I use an old Uni-Drum roller base for this. It can handle 5 reel Paterson tanks without supervision and 3 reel tanks if you watch it (they tend to slide off).

Initial time was 5 min in A and 5 min in B - good negatives, not exactly super fine grain and as there is a fair bit of Sodium Sulphite involved, slightly mushed up grain to. Prints and scans well though.

The story is that David Vestal was mixing up D76 Divided and suddenly forgot where to put the Sulphite so he split it between the A and B! Good to know that even a darkroom expert can forget things!

After 25 rolls I added 1 min to both A and B - density remained the same. Only slowdown I have seen has really been at around rolls 40 and onward. I am running rolls 46-50 this weekend and will add yet another minute to both A and B and see if it matters.

As with most divided developers, it really does not matter what the speed of the film is (i rate the XX @320 or thereabouts) and I was also running some Acros 100 ( work remarkably well - though I would rate it at 64-80 iso) and even some Pan F+ ( rated @ 25 iso).

Considering the amount of film that has gone through the Vestal - it is truly a cheap "soup".

Just finished loading 64 Nikon Cassettes with my last 400 ft of EK 5231 and July will be dedicated to Nikon Rf's and 5231. Probably will use Beutler A-B for the first 30 rolls and switch to something
else later.

If you check our Flickr and use the tag XX Vestal there are a couple of 100 shots done with the XX/Vestal and in the tags you will find the times too.

It also works very well with TriX/Arista Premium 400 at around 320 iso.

Promise of better weather, Sunny F16 with 100 iso +X would be nice.
 
So I came across some Double-X. It is old, it doesn't say how old, and the guy who gave it to me didn't know how old it is.
So I shot a couple of test rolls to see how it works, or if it works at all. It is kept in the freezer always. I attached a couple of pictures, there is some Tri-X in the other corner just to make a reference. So what do you think? Is this unusable? It is developed in Rodinal 1+50, 11min. Exposed iso250. Is there a way to lessen that fogging? Or is Rodinal a bad choice for developing XX? I would really want to use this film and now i got some of it, but if it is unusable, I have to start searching for another roll of Double-X. I would really appreciate all your help!!
 

Attachments

  • XX1.jpg
    XX1.jpg
    34.2 KB · Views: 1
  • XX2.jpg
    XX2.jpg
    37.6 KB · Views: 1
It's probably just fine, although you might want to reduce exposure/development and see how it reacts. I like thicker negatives, myself. Are there any streaks, or mottling? That's a big problem with outdated film.

There is a bit of excess base density, my guess if that you can burn through that with a bit of extra exposure. If you are scanning it, how does it look?
 
Last edited:
11 minutes in Rodinal 1+50 for Double-X exposed at 250 seems a bit long. I use 7 minutes.

I have found that I can also rate this film at 650 and use Diafine.
 
You can also add Benzotriozole, which will cut down on the fog, although it will also cut the film speed. I keep a 1 percent solution around, it keeps forever.
 
Last edited:
I developed two rolls (of TRI-X) yesterday in Rodinal 1+50. The first was agitated according to AGFA's recommended agitation - 30s continuous to start then 1 inversion every thirty seconds - this was OK. The second was agitated according to the Ilford routine - four inversions to start and four every 60 seconds - this showed more density overall and appeared fogged. I'll try another couple of rolls with the AGFA agitation routine to see if I can make that work consistently in different size tanks.
 
thank you for your replies, i have to try that 7 min in rodinal 1+50.
And maybe rate it 200asa. The "bit" of excess base density concernes me the most. First I thought that the film is not usable because it is badly fogged. But there are no streaks or mottling. Unfortunately I don't have scanner, but I try to get to one and try scanning them. I really would like to loose some of that excess base density. Where can I get this Benzotriozole? And how does one use it? Thanks again.
 
ipu,

ChrisN is saying that agitation appears to make a -big- difference with Rodinal and base fog level. Did you shake the tank a lot?



http://stores.photoformulary.com/-strse-373/Swan-Valley/Detail.bok sells Benzotriazole, which is a restraining solution. Very useful for outdated film and paper, in an extremely dilute solution, which you simply add to your developer. In my experience, when you add Benzo, you must add extra exposure, as it cuts down on the film speed, while it "cuts through" the fog in the film base.

I cannot specifically respond to your inquiries regarding Rodinal, I have not had much experience with that. Perhaps one of our other "XX Addicts" can give you more details with the Rodinal. Anybody??


ChrisN said:
I developed two rolls (of TRI-X) yesterday in Rodinal 1+50. The first was agitated according to AGFA's recommended agitation - 30s continuous to start then 1 inversion every thirty seconds - this was OK. The second was agitated according to the Ilford routine - four inversions to start and four every 60 seconds - this showed more density overall and appeared fogged. I'll try another couple of rolls with the AGFA agitation routine to see if I can make that work consistently in different size tanks.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
thanks for the tips again.
I tried 7min in 1+50 rodinal. base density is cut away a little, but i think i need to adjust the exposure, maybe rate it 200.. (it would help this experimenting if I had a scanner or if I had the time to print contact sheets of every test roll..)
By the way could someone post a picture of a Double-X negative? I would like to see what color the base is. Because 1+50 rodinal 11min and 7min resulted different color base. And I would also like to see how transparent does the XX base get. It seem to varie between film brands..
I found also benzotriazole here in finland, but it is 1% dillution, is that enough? I can ask for stronger.
 
Here's Some of Mine.

Here's Some of Mine.

Processed in ADOX Borax MQ, 9 minutes at 20C.

1% Benzo is what I used, years ago, but not with Rodinal. It did not take alot to make an effect. I would try a few milileters per roll, that should have an effect. TomA has had alot of experience with Benzo, perhaps he will make a recommendation.

Notice, I take different exposures, of the same scene. Shoot a test roll, try EI 100, EI 200 and EI 400 of the same scene. See what works. My personal preference is for a slightly thicker negative, I want maximum shadow detail. Eastman XX 5222 is extremely tolerant of general overexposure. The high values do not seem to "block-up", as much as with more modern films. I guess that is one reason I like it so much.

Those negs you have do not look too bad to me. Try different agitation, also.
 

Attachments

  • DSC04196.jpg
    DSC04196.jpg
    15 KB · Views: 2
Last edited:
I use a 1% Benzo solution. I add 10 ml per liter of developer. If you add more you cut the speed of the film considerably.
I buy Benzo as powder and mix it myself. Use hot water to do it as it takes a while to dissolve in cold water. Shelf life seems unlimited and a 100ml solution (1 gram Benzo/100 ml water) will last quite a while anyway.
Good luck - and dont over-agitate with Rodinal.
 
Some recent shots with the Canon 35 f2 that I got from Maiku (Mike)

leicam6_e5222_d76s_c35_114.jpg



leicam6_e5222_d76s_c35_117.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom