Shelley-Ann
Girl Wonder
I've developed XX in Rodinal (stand development, 1+200). It's pretty gritty, but I like it as the scene suited it (IMO).
I'll try it in HC110 in Dilution B next time.
I'll try it in HC110 in Dilution B next time.
Exposing Eastman (Double-X) 5222 in the Leica
- Thread starter Nokton48
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ChrisN
Striving
Have you received your Kodak 2485 yet?
I'll be interested to see your results. Which developers will you try?
maddoc
... likes film again.
Nokton48, thank you !! 🙂 The 5222 became my favorite BW film recently. Unfortunately, I can't handle the 400ft rolls, no darkroom and only a 100ft daylight-loader.... 🙁
Here is one from my first attempt of developing 5222 in Diafine:
Here is one from my first attempt of developing 5222 in Diafine:
WoolenMammoth
Well-known
chris, I did get the 2485, just ran a single test roll in microphen. It looks cool, but need to play with it more to dial everything in. Seems like a lower contrast 5222, I like the vibe of it so far.
Gabor, get yourself a changing bag that has an integral tent, thats what I use to roll off the 400' into the bulkloader. Its stupidly easy to do. Once you do it, you'll laugh at yourself for hesitating...
did you rate that at about 800 for diafine? photo kinda looks like it.
Gabor, get yourself a changing bag that has an integral tent, thats what I use to roll off the 400' into the bulkloader. Its stupidly easy to do. Once you do it, you'll laugh at yourself for hesitating...
did you rate that at about 800 for diafine? photo kinda looks like it.
maddoc
... likes film again.
As I remember rated at 400ISO .... I will have a look for such a changing back !
ChrisN
Striving
Thanks - don't forget to post some pics! I hope it's ok to talk about the 2485 in this thread, just for comparison 😛 .
The ebay seller must have quite a stash - he has some more listed (ebay # 260354996050). I'd buy more but I already have 5 cans in the fridge.
Nokton48
Veteran
Welcome!
Welcome!
Yes I saw your work on the XX Flikr page. Thanks for posting, looks great! I want to try Rodinal/stand development myself 😀
Welcome!
Yes I saw your work on the XX Flikr page. Thanks for posting, looks great! I want to try Rodinal/stand development myself 😀
Nokton48
Veteran
I've got another RockNRoll concert to shoot this evening, and I'll be using XX at pushable speeds. Going minimal, but still portable, M5 with 50mm Canon F1.2, and M2 with Rapidwinder and 85mm F1.5 Canon. And a 35mm F2 Canon and XX in my pockets. This time my son's band has a gig for the SWAT cops, at least there will be plenty of security 🙂
Figuring the XX has a maximum of EI 640-800 with minimal shadow detail. Will probably stick with Ilford DDX on these, or maybe Diafine. Which one will maximize the emulsion speed? I'm thinking of the EI 3200/EI 6400 times for Neopan 1600 and DDX, got some decent shadows with that, last time.
Any last minute suggestions?
Figuring the XX has a maximum of EI 640-800 with minimal shadow detail. Will probably stick with Ilford DDX on these, or maybe Diafine. Which one will maximize the emulsion speed? I'm thinking of the EI 3200/EI 6400 times for Neopan 1600 and DDX, got some decent shadows with that, last time.
Any last minute suggestions?
ChrisN
Striving
Has anyone tried Microphen with the XX? That's supposed to be a speed-enhancing developer; might be good.
Edit: yes - just used the "Search this thread"!
Edit: yes - just used the "Search this thread"!
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Tom A
RFF Sponsor
Still playing with stand developing and Rodinal 1:100. Tonight I just souped some rolls of XX with Rodinal 1:100, but with the addition of 30 grams of Sodium Sulphite to the 1500 ml of mixed developer. Cut my time back to 45 min. Negs look quite good, hanging up to dry.
The idea is to "mush" up the grain a bit. Stand developing in Rodinal is "true grit" and I will see tomorrow how much improvement there has been (if any). Shooting some more and will try higher concentration of Sulphite too.
Will scan tomorrow and post. Oh, as a benefit - this mix seems to work very well with Neopan 1600 rated @1000.
The idea is to "mush" up the grain a bit. Stand developing in Rodinal is "true grit" and I will see tomorrow how much improvement there has been (if any). Shooting some more and will try higher concentration of Sulphite too.
Will scan tomorrow and post. Oh, as a benefit - this mix seems to work very well with Neopan 1600 rated @1000.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
Just added some XX shots on Flickr, done with the Rodinal stand developing. 1:100 for 45 minutes and I added 30 grams of Sodium Sulphite to the 1500 ml of "soup". Slight improvement in grain - not major though, Still a bit gritty. I will try some higher volumes of Sodium Sulphite ( 75 gram and also 150 grams - the old Bill Pierce formula). I think I can cut the time another 5-10 minutes with the addition of Sodium Sulphite.
One advantage is that I keep hanging around the darkroom for extended time, just waiting for the minutes to go by. Boredom was offset by a cleaning frenzy - another 2-3 batches and i could eat from the floor!
Oh, as a side benefit, the Neopan 1600 @ 1000 in this soup looks great!
One advantage is that I keep hanging around the darkroom for extended time, just waiting for the minutes to go by. Boredom was offset by a cleaning frenzy - another 2-3 batches and i could eat from the floor!
Oh, as a side benefit, the Neopan 1600 @ 1000 in this soup looks great!
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squirrel$$$bandit
Veteran
Tried some pano triptychs at the park today...the speeds on my Robot appear to be way off, because I overexposed by at least two stops. The negs looked practically black, with the ghosts of images in them. So I'm kind of surprised how much detail I was able to pull out of the XX with the Coolscan 5000ED and Lightroom. These are heavily, heavily processed but still look kinda neat.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
Neat shots with the Robot. It is amazing what can be pulled out when scanning! Negs that you would discard in the "wet" darkroom actually look 1/2 decent on scans! Hope for all those 1000's of foul-ups in the form of black rectangles or, in the case of the Robot, black squares!
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
I just posted some stuff on Flickr done with the XX in stand development 35 min with Rodinal 1:100 and 4% Sodium Sulphite added. It works, but I am finding out that a/ my Paterson reels fries the edges of the negs occasionally and b/ the grain is ugly - unless you are looking for that gritty feel. Sharp though.
Interesting observation. Far less problem with modern thin emulsion films and the fried edges. Both the XXX and XX looks rough, whilst the Neopan 1600 @ 1000 looks down right great! The Acros 100 # 200 worked quite well too - not Beutler 1:1:10 by any means, but acceptable.
I will do one more run, adding 10% Sodium Sulphite and cutting time down to 25 minutes and see what comes out. After that I have to lock myself into the darkroom for a day and load 100-120 rolls in various cassettes, 70 rolls of XX in IXMOO's, 30 rolls of Tri X in Nikon reloadables and 20 rolls of Arista Premium in standard cassettes for use in Bessa's and M6/MP's. Just found some 5 liter packs of ID 11 in the darkroom. That stand developing allows you a lot of time to look in cabinets and the boxes that clutter up that space under the tables.
Interesting observation. Far less problem with modern thin emulsion films and the fried edges. Both the XXX and XX looks rough, whilst the Neopan 1600 @ 1000 looks down right great! The Acros 100 # 200 worked quite well too - not Beutler 1:1:10 by any means, but acceptable.
I will do one more run, adding 10% Sodium Sulphite and cutting time down to 25 minutes and see what comes out. After that I have to lock myself into the darkroom for a day and load 100-120 rolls in various cassettes, 70 rolls of XX in IXMOO's, 30 rolls of Tri X in Nikon reloadables and 20 rolls of Arista Premium in standard cassettes for use in Bessa's and M6/MP's. Just found some 5 liter packs of ID 11 in the darkroom. That stand developing allows you a lot of time to look in cabinets and the boxes that clutter up that space under the tables.
malcolmma
Newbie
I have shot some xx & +x, too. 😱
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
Nice stuff! The D96 works well with both the XX and X. For the next 40-50 rolls I am going to be doing ID 11 (just to use it up) but after that I am going back to D96 and the TD 201 2 bath soup. Of course, I can be swayed by some other chemicals - maybe PMK or MCM 1000 or simply D23. So many variables, so many rolls to shoot!
I like the lathe worker shot. Nice machine. I occasionally miss my 2000 lbs custom built tool room lathe. You could carve a 15 feet coil of stainless steel without any problem.
I like the lathe worker shot. Nice machine. I occasionally miss my 2000 lbs custom built tool room lathe. You could carve a 15 feet coil of stainless steel without any problem.
squirrel$$$bandit
Veteran
Good stuff, malcolmma!
Tom, I'm getting fried edges too sometimes, even with 1:50, but it never gets past the sprocket holes. Or even TO the sprocket holes most of the time.
Tom, I'm getting fried edges too sometimes, even with 1:50, but it never gets past the sprocket holes. Or even TO the sprocket holes most of the time.
malcolmma
Newbie
L
lkgroup
Guest
I have never tried D96 but since those pictures look so nice I might have to. Do you start with the same times a D76?
I have been using Adox MQ developer lately as it is a reduced sulfite version of D76 and maybe D96. Since the Sulfite is reduced I use the D-76 times and with my Jobo I don't reduce the time the normal 10-15% but use the times as listed.
Nice work.
Leo
I have been using Adox MQ developer lately as it is a reduced sulfite version of D76 and maybe D96. Since the Sulfite is reduced I use the D-76 times and with my Jobo I don't reduce the time the normal 10-15% but use the times as listed.
Nice work.
Leo
Al Kaplan
Veteran
D-76 is Kodak's developer for still camera film while D-96 is for motion picture stock. They're almost exactly the same formula. I suspect that the D-96 was optimized for running long rolls of film through tanks of chemicals where the "agitation" is from jets of chemicals within the tanks hitting the film as it moves through the solution and is continuous. D-76 is used with intermittant agitation. Using the same times should get you a decent negative, but like any film/developer combo you might want to fine tune your developing time and ISO.
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