Exposing Eastman (Double-X) 5222 in the Leica

If anybody here is using D-96 for 5222 and replenishing I have a question about that. At what rate is it replenished?

I've been using 15mL per roll. I have a 1000mL bottle and use about 500mL for developing. After developing I pour 15mL (per roll) of replenisher into the half-full 1000mL bottle and then pour back in the just-used 500mL of developer until I have 1000mL again. I had been wondering if one is better off pouring that 15mL into the full 1000mL first and then pouring off to bring it back down to 1000mL.

It's a small amount but multiplied over the liter of replenisher I have and errors would add up. I don't know how the movie processor's machines did this.

Grateful for pointers,
s-a

I use D96 frequently and my replenishing is 20mm/roll - based on using Peterson 5 reel tanks (1500 ml). I pour the developer in - add the replenishing volume to the empty beaker (100 ml/5 rolls) and "decant the excess 100 ml when I pour it back in the storage bottle (2000 ml). It seems to work well and as I make up 2000 ml D96 and 1000 ml replenisher - after 50 rolls the replenisher is used up. At that point I dump it all and mix up fresh chemicals. You need to filter the solution afar every 10-15 rolls - film picks a bit of dust and grit sometimes.
 
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[/url]G 954 # 4 Forget the treats -a burger with fries will do fine! by T&T and Mr B Abrahamsson, on Flickr[/IMG]

Kodak Double X, rated at 320 - Kodak D96 for 8 min.
M6 and Zeiss Planar 50mm f2.0
 
I ordered a couple of rolls of this film and while I got good results on both rolls the 24th exposure was cut off. It let me take that 24th shot but I only got a portion of it. both rolls were that way. I wish I knew somewhere else to buy the film as the place I ordered it from roll it themselves and I think they're doing something wrong.

Here's what that last exposure looks like.

_1DF4495 by David Fincher, on Flickr

Test shots were fine.

LeicaM4e by David Fincher, on Flickr
 
They're taping the XX to the tag end of a previously exposed and processed roll (cheaper than buying reloadables and free from labs). No way around this unless they start taping in the dark. I'd suggest loading your own rolls to avoid losing the last frame.
 
So guys, I have a roll of this film, and am a reasonably competent B&W processor etc.
I currently use Rodinal, mostly because of the simple convenience, it just lasts for ages, you nip out what you want, and the rest just keeps.

With the current films I am using, a selection of Fomapan, some TX400, some TMax100 etc, I am getting slightly more grain than I really want.

I see I can use my current favourite at 1:50 and the results I see here all look very nice. Anyone found that the grain is "more than they really wanted", and changed to something else.

Years ago I used Microphen almost exclusively, mixed it up, and used it as required, but I felt I threw out more than I used. If I was processing every couple of days or week, then maybe, but with a roll a month or so, stock goes off.

Suggestions?
Gary
 
I develop sporadically and once threw away more oxidized developer stock solution than I used.

I use Kodak HC110 now.
It yields finer grain than Rodinal and the concentrate keeps for years in the bottle.

Chris
 
XX is not an inherently fine-grained film. It's a 1950's emulsion formulation. Amazing it is still around. Old School is as Old School does. Rodinal will accentuate the grain. That is cool, if that is what you like. Actually this film does pretty well in just about any developer.
 
Thank you Chris, and Nokton48.
I have looked into HC110, and this looks too hard, it is a liquid, and posting it to me is just too hard, believe me I've tried.
Maybe I will just try Rodinal and see, can't hurt.
Thanks to both of you.
Gary
 
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[/url]F392 XX D23 #6 by T&T and Mr B Abrahamsson, on Flickr[/IMG]

Another combination is plain old D23. Stock solution 100 grams of Sodium Sulphite and 7.5 grams of Metol/Elon. It will do 15-20 rolls without replenishment (though it will age - 2-3 weeks at the most. I fgenrally add a minute to every run. Double X I start at 7 minor the first batch (5 rolls) and then the second batch is 8 min etc.
Good, classic low to medium contrast developer.
An alternative is D23 two bath. Stock D23 for 3-4 min, constant agitation and the Borax as a B bath (20 grams of 20 Mule Team Borax with no agitation for3-4 min.
Shot is Leica M2, Double X rated at around 320 is, D23 stock for 8 min. Leica M2 and 40 mm Nokton f1.4.
 
Well I believe this is my first post on here. Figured I would share a few from the last roll of XX I developed. This is from last month, shot at 200, hc110 dil h for 13.5 minutes agitated lightly every 2 minutes. Scanned on Pakon f135+. Slight adjustments in LR5. Camera was M5, lens canon serenar 50/1.8 w/ light yellow filter

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i-SPpcsvC-XL.jpg

i-74QZWT4-XL.jpg
 
I have three developers handy...ID-11, Rodinal and HC-110. I've tried ID-11 1:1 with some decent results but wondered about HC-110-maybe Dilution H as I use it with Tri-X and HP-5. Would that give good results with XX?
 
I have three developers handy...ID-11, Rodinal and HC-110. I've tried ID-11 1:1 with some decent results but wondered about HC-110-maybe Dilution H as I use it with Tri-X and HP-5. Would that give good results with XX?


I don't see why not. I use this dilution with all my B&W. FWIW, I primarily shoot hp5+, triX, kentmere 100/400, delta400 and XX.
 
I think I'll give it a try. I usually shoot this film, as well as the others, at ASA 250 and develop at 75 degrees for 10 minutes with Dil H. Works good with Tri-X and HP-5.
 
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