Exposure and film for indoor shoot

[raid]

Hi,


I usually set my camera to ISO 400 with the lens set to aperture 2.0 for many indoor photos over the years. Some times, I need ISO 800.
My questions is this: if I have a wide angle lens with max aperture 4.0, and I want to use this lens (because it is fixed to a camera and I cannot change lenses here) with print film, which exposure would work here and which film to pick? Basically, I want to use my SWC for a close-up portrait that will be taken inside a university office that has one window.

I know that traveling with very sensitive film through airports may fog up (say) a film with ISO 3200. If I stick to ISO 400 film for this reason, and if I want to stay away from using a flash, would a window light shot at 4.0 and ISO 400 work out if I took it regardless of the indicated light levels, with the goal to adjust with PS later on?

Could you share your experience based advices here? Thanks!

I could see myself using a fill-in flash if it is absolutely needed. It would most likely be my only shot taken then.

 

[brbo]

Or you could use a camera, lens and film that is suitable for the job...

 

[presspass]

We need more information. For instance, are you planning to shoot this with an estimated exposure or can you meter it? How big and close will the window be to your subject? Which way does the window face and at what time of day will you be taking the photo? Can you do it? Yes. Can you do it hand-held with an unknown exposure? Probably, if you bracket and take the full 12 shots on the roll and can brace yourself and your camera.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

Are you sure wide angle lens is what you want for close up portraits?

I'm sitting at the office today, beside the window. I just measured the light, (shadow, partly clouds).
At ISO400 it is 1/50 for f4 for incident light on my face.
I recommend HP5+ 120 roll film, under light like this it is pushable to 1200.

 

[raid]

Or you could use a camera, lens and film that is suitable for the job...

Yes, I could, but this would not be fun, would it. I need to enjoy taking photos first.

 

[sevo]

There is no ISO 3200 film - nor has there ever been. Fuji Superia 1600 (CN) probably is the fastest remaining film. Black and white, and positively available would be Ilford Delta 3200 (which in spite of its name is a ISO 1000 film).

As X-Ray fogging will first affect the shadows (which are quite insensitive to pushing), little more than one stop faster is not that huge a difference, and does not really show up, and I haven't seen X-Ray damage on my Superia 1600 either, so far. Vulnerability to hot storage and a tendency to latent image loss are more relevant issues when travelling with fast film - but that cannot be generalized, there are slow films like Velvia and Pan F that have even worse storage and latent image holding properties.

 

[raid]

We need more information. For instance, are you planning to shoot this with an estimated exposure or can you meter it? How big and close will the window be to your subject? Which way does the window face and at what time of day will you be taking the photo? Can you do it? Yes. Can you do it hand-held with an unknown exposure? Probably, if you bracket and take the full 12 shots on the roll and can brace yourself and your camera.

This is one photo is the same locatioon from last April. It will be December.

 

[raid]

Are you sure wide angle lens is what you want for close up portraits?

I'm sitting at the office today, beside the window. I just measured the light, (shadow, partly clouds).
At ISO400 it is 1/50 for f4 for incident light on my face.
I recommend HP5+ 120 roll film, under light like this it is pushable to 1200.

I want a very special photo of the man, and there are few photos of him taken by a SWC.

 

[raid]

There is no ISO 3200 film - nor has there ever been. Fuji Superia 1600 (CN) probably is the fastest remaining film. Black and white, and positively available would be Ilford Delta 3200 (which in spite of its name is a ISO 1000 film).

As X-Ray fogging will first affect the shadows (which are quite insensitive to pushing), little more than one stop faster is not that huge a difference, and does not really show up, and I haven't seen X-Ray damage on my Superia 1600 either, so far. Vulnerability to hot storage and a tendency to latent image loss are more relevant issues when travelling with fast film - but that cannot be generalized, there are slow films like Velvia and Pan F that have even worse storage and latent image holding properties.

Good point. I meant the Delta 3200 film.

 

[Mcary]

Raid,

JMO but MF TRIX in XTOL work nicely at both 800 and 1600 when shooting people in available/low light situation.

From the Kodak Technical Data sheet for Trix "Because of these films’ exposure latitude, you can underexpose by one stop and use normal processing times. Prints will show a slight loss in shadow detail.You can underexpose by two stops if you increase development time by push processing. Prints will show an increase in contrast and graininess with further loss ofshadow detail. However, results should be acceptable for
many applications. Expose a test roll to determine the filmspeed that gives the best results for your application.

 

[rbsinto]

There is no ISO 3200 film - nor has there ever been. Fuji Superia 1600 (CN) probably is the fastest remaining film. Black and white, and positively available would be Ilford Delta 3200 (which in spite of its name is a ISO 1000 film).

As X-Ray fogging will first affect the shadows (which are quite insensitive to pushing), little more than one stop faster is not that huge a difference, and does not really show up, and I haven't seen X-Ray damage on my Superia 1600 either, so far. Vulnerability to hot storage and a tendency to latent image loss are more relevant issues when travelling with fast film - but that cannot be generalized, there are slow films like Velvia and Pan F that have even worse storage and latent image holding properties.

Regardless of the film speed you are planning to take, I don't think you need worry about X-ray damage in an airport.
I shoot only film and whenever I fly, I always ask for it to be hand inspected. As recently as this June the request was granted both here in Toronto and in Los Angeles. I have never been refused this courtesy.

 

[raid]

Thanks for the tip.
I have seen quite a few good looking close-up portraits online with the SWC. Using Tri-X may do it.

Raid

Raid,

JMO but MF TRIX in XTOL work nicely at both 800 and 1600 when shooting people in available/low light situation.

From the Kodak Technical Data sheet for Trix "Because of these films’ exposure latitude, you can underexpose by one stop and use normal processing times. Prints will show a slight loss in shadow detail.You can underexpose by two stops if you increase development time by push processing. Prints will show an increase in contrast and graininess with further loss ofshadow detail. However, results should be acceptable for
many applications. Expose a test roll to determine the filmspeed that gives the best results for your application.

 

[raid]

Regardless of the film speed you are planning to take, I don't think you need worry about X-ray damage in an airport.
I shoot only film and whenever I fly, I always ask for it to be hand inspected. As recently as this June the request was granted both here in Toronto and in Los Angeles. I have never been refused this courtesy.

OK. Maybe I worry too much here. I will also ask ...

 

[rfaspen]

Color print or B+W film? I also wonder what the exposure information was from your earlier photo? That could help. I get the feeling you'll be fine with ISO 400 (color or BW); push to 800 if conditions require. Of course, you will have a meter with you, right? The meter will decide if the push is necessary.

BTW, hand inspection is nice when you can get it. But, if you're only flying through 2 security checkpoints (round trip), and within the U.S., and your film is in your carry-on bag, you should see nothing of x-ray damage with ISO 400 film. You could probably get away with 800 or more and still not see any damage. The U.S. carry-on scanners are really pretty safe with film unless you're going through a lot of checkpoints. That's what I've read and that's my personal experience. It wasn't always that way though! Back 20-30 years ago the scanners were different or stronger and film was zapped. Also, I know that even today, ISO 400 color transparency film will show some effects after going through 9 or 10 checkpoints. I know because I unwillingly tested that hypothesis.

 

[raid]

Thanks for the feedback. I could use color or B&W with film.
I used M9 with Lux for ISO 500 and f2.4 last time.
I will have only one airport check in the USA to go though each way.
I saw this image online [not mine]. I am planning such a portrait. I also like to take a photo of his room, with him as a small figure in it.

In April, the window and room lights were OK. I don't know how things will look like in December.
As some have said before, there are so many portraits of him out there, so I will contribute at all to any addition. It will be for myself a souvenir.
I might as well just have fun doing it.

online photos: https://www.google.com/search?q=gre...SZMPqZ2vM:&usg=__1Cnc-spKAalYFH8SBjstfo_zkzo=

 

[rfaspen]

Tripod? Even a small tabletop version? Might let you use reasonable shutter speeds with the film of your choosing. For me, camera shake is my biggest problem with slower speeds, and not the subject moving. That is, of course, when it is a portrait sitting and they sit still. Down to 1/30 and below might open up the possibilities. Just a possibility.

As for flying with film, I'd request the hand checks but not worry if I'm refused. Just stick it in the carry on and send it through the machine. I have been refused more often than accommodated. And if its Heathrow (London), save your breath and avoid some serious wrath. I would expect them to rerun your bag through the machine multiple times just for asking.

 

[raid]

I have many tripods of many sizes and weights. I also have a monopod. It is less useful, though.

 

[kermaier]

Raid, you'll get better results underexposing and push-processing silver films like Tri-X, T-Max or HP5, as opposed to C-41 films like XP2 or Superia. The chromogenic films are much better behaved with overexposure.
::Ari

 

[raid]

Good tip, Ari. Thanks.
I won't use the XP2 from you then.

 

[Corran]

Tri-X and Acufine will pretty much get a decent image at any exposure that would equate to an EI of 200 to 1600. I've done it a lot, shooting off the cuff.

I'm not sure in what world that normal silver films won't tolerate overexposure. Also, I doubt you'll have to worry about gross overexposure in that situation.

Oh - doesn't the iPhone shot you posted already have EXIF data*, and therefore exposure data? Extrapolate from that.

*Yep, it does, just looked. ISO 40, f/2.2, 1/30th exposure time. That means at ISO 400 you can shoot at f/4 and 1/60th.