kiss-o-matic
Well-known
Howdy
I own a GR-1v and am a fan. Trying to walk a friend through getting a primo PnS and need to figure out of the GR-1s is a contender. If I'm reading correctly, the GR-1v has both an ISO setting and +/- 2EV compensation, whereas the GR-1s only has the latter.
If that's the case, you can still push/pull 2 stops w/ a GR-1s, yes?
He and I both are familiar w/ JCH's comparison, but if anyone wants to throw out any other gotchas that'd be great.
I own a GR-1v and am a fan. Trying to walk a friend through getting a primo PnS and need to figure out of the GR-1s is a contender. If I'm reading correctly, the GR-1v has both an ISO setting and +/- 2EV compensation, whereas the GR-1s only has the latter.
If that's the case, you can still push/pull 2 stops w/ a GR-1s, yes?
He and I both are familiar w/ JCH's comparison, but if anyone wants to throw out any other gotchas that'd be great.
mod2001
Old school modernist
Yes, via a constant exposure compensation, I do the same on my Contax T3, of course you loose then the exp comp as additional correction. I use the AFL-Lock on my Contax in this case, measuring the light in a different area, as far as I can remember this works also on the GR.
Other workaround, leaving the exp comp in place, change the dx coding on the film canister, there are some websites show how to do it, you can also buy DX code film labels.
Jürgen
kiss-o-matic
Well-known
Cheers -- will pass this info on. I knew of the DX code trick but seems a it cumbersome.