exposure latitudes

[andy_leitch]

Hi, i'm really just getting into film photography after giving up when i was 16 and had no money and deciding to get a digital camera. Now that i have more money to spend i think i'd prefer to shoot film. I've been looking at films with a very money concious head on my shoulders and have only really just come accross push/pull processing.

What i'd like to know is what kind of exposure latitude i should expect with the following films:

Fujifilm Velvia 100F
Fujifilm Sensia II 100
Fujifilm Sensia II 200
Fujifilm Sensia II 400
Fujifilm Neopan 400

I like the idea of the included processing with the Sensia II films and this may tip it for me. Does anyone know if it's possible to pay £1 or so extra on the processing cost to get the exposure pushed/pulled.

I've also been looking at, for B&W, Ilford Delta 400 and Ilford chemistry because they have a very good fact sheet with a huge amount of information. Does anyone know of a good informative guide to processing Neopan and also would you recommend Neopan 400 or Delta 400? If they're close matched then i'll just choose one, i'm just wanting to know if one is miles ahead of the other.

Sorry for the huge number of questions. It's just that i thought i'd need to have 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600 films and didn't know that it's possible to push/pull development.

Thanks

Andy Leitch

 

[thelovecollect]

What i'd like to know is what kind of exposure latitude i should expect with the following films:

Fujifilm Velvia 100F

i don't know the exact numbers but your going to have to nail the exposure on velvia..and several stops for error on the negative films..

I like the idea of the included processing with the Sensia II films and this may tip it for me. Does anyone know if it's possible to pay £1 or so extra on the processing cost to get the exposure pushed/pulled.

this depends where you get the film developed...pro labs should push and pull.

I've also been looking at, for B&W, Ilford Delta 400 and Ilford chemistry because they have a very good fact sheet with a huge amount of information. Does anyone know of a good informative guide to processing Neopan and also would you recommend Neopan 400 or Delta 400? If they're close matched then i'll just choose one, i'm just wanting to know if one is miles ahead of the other.

Sorry for the huge number of questions. It's just that i thought i'd need to have 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600 films and didn't know that it's possible to push/pull development.

you might want to look at www.digitaltruth.com for their archive of development times...

 

[Finder]

Pushing and pulling film is a compromise, especially pushing it. Why do you want to do it?

Slide film is like digital and will require fairly accurate exposures. Negative films have a very large exposure latitude, but you have a greater latitude when overexposing than underexposing.

 

[Nachkebia]

What I have read about slides are generaly 5-7 steps.... negatives are around 7-9 and BW negatives 11-14 🙂

 

[andy_leitch]

The reason i ask is that i'd like to know if say i had a max speed of 400 if i could shoot a dark concert at say 1600 or shoot outdoors at 200 for narrower depth of field.

 

[andy_leitch]

ok so with colour, C-41 and E-6, i've read that it's a bad idea to push or pull and with B&W it should only really be done if i haven't got the right film and i shouldn't deliberately not buy the correct speed of film with a view to using it at a higher speed.

 

[Ronald M]

I am sure Neopan is nice film, but I`m 100% Ilford. Other`s results for time may or may not work for you, so whatever you hear or read needs to be tested.

Delta 100 for slow film, and HP5 for fast. Most commonly I pull to 50 and 200. ID 11/D76 is my developer amd Delta 400 does not get along well with it unlike the original Delta 400. New delta 400 likes Xtol and DDx. I dislike Xtol for its weird activity levels and DDx is just plain expensive.

I mix D76 from raw chemicals and get results exactly like the package, time and all.

Delta 100 is 6.5 min at 68 and HP5 is on the Ilford website and I take 10% off.
If you want to use 1/2 box speed, cut time 20%. Increase 10% for a diffusion enlarger.

All shutters, meters, thermometers, etc are all correct.

 

[kaiyen]

Velvia 100F isn't as bad as 100, and not nearly as bad as 50. But you're still looking at maybe 3.5 stops. Maybe 4 at the most.

Sensia is pretty flexible. You can get a good 5 stops out of it.

Neopan 400 is a negative film and therefore more forgiving.

Pushing with slide film really isn't a great general approach. If you need latitude, shoot negative film. If you want a great all-purpose negative film, try Kodak 400UC. Great stuff. I would rather shoot at a smaller aperture with 400UC than a bigger one with 100UC, FWIW. Unless DOF was the issue.

For B&W, I still argue that the most flexbile film out there is TXT. I shoot it from 250 (nice, smooth tones, very nice on portraits) out to 3200 on a regular basis. Just change up developers and I'm all set for all of those situations.

allan

 

[steve garza]

The reason i ask is that i'd like to know if say i had a max speed of 400 if i could shoot a dark concert at say 1600 or shoot outdoors at 200 for narrower depth of field.

Sure, you can expose for 1600 ASA and get the low light shots. Neopan works great for this and I've exposed many rolls for this purpose. It provides an almost "velvety" look. Be aware, the push will increase grain.