flashover
John K
I have a Kiev 4 I acquired not to long ago. Today when I took it out of the bag and went to wind the film and shutter to take a shot. It would only advance a fraction before meeting resistance. The shutter was not cocked. I removed the film and found the item in the attached photo inside. It appeares to be a rod with a threaded end. After the film was removed I was able to wind the shutter and fire it no problem. Anyone know what or where this is from?
Attachments
Xmas
Veteran
John
The long threaded at 'wrong' end grub screw is a spacer which can come undone in any Kiev. It goes back with the screw head exposed.
It lives in the take up spool area just beside one ot the three (two) screws in this area which secure the top Al casting to the main chassis. It should be (just) possible to thread it in without a foul/interference, but please try and keep in straight on the way in. I recommend backing off the three (or two) screws immediately proximate as the long grub is a spacer to hold off the top casting from the main chassis, run it in until it bottoms (gently) and then retighten the loosened off screws, snug not too tight. The grub needs to be treated like it was made of butter... You need a really small driver for the grub and a larger but still small driver for the marger heads you dont need to even mar any screw heads.
If it fouls before the threads engage or tightens before the head is level with the surface, then you need to remove, & pressure sensitive tape it to the baseplate somewhere were it wont foul and the next repair person will put it back. Also do this is you are not confident about watch repair...
Recommend you apply partners nail varnish to grub when you have finished the rework, as it can come undone by itself, the grub can go into (dissappear) the hole some way but the nail vanish can be removed later when needed even if this happens. I also dab varnish on all the other top plate securing screws. You need a pin dip in varnish on applicator brush, and quickly deposit accross edge of screw head, partner may be better at this...
You really need a good digcam if you are stripping the FSU cams, wish I had one. Like the one that did the shots you posted... You may need to strip the Kiev eventually...
Noel
If this is not clear search on member Russ Pinchbeck his site has a rebuild manual in pixels, with pointer to the screws I'd recommend backing off.
if yours has a fixed take up then you need to remove this screwdrivers again before you can replace the grub.
The long threaded at 'wrong' end grub screw is a spacer which can come undone in any Kiev. It goes back with the screw head exposed.
It lives in the take up spool area just beside one ot the three (two) screws in this area which secure the top Al casting to the main chassis. It should be (just) possible to thread it in without a foul/interference, but please try and keep in straight on the way in. I recommend backing off the three (or two) screws immediately proximate as the long grub is a spacer to hold off the top casting from the main chassis, run it in until it bottoms (gently) and then retighten the loosened off screws, snug not too tight. The grub needs to be treated like it was made of butter... You need a really small driver for the grub and a larger but still small driver for the marger heads you dont need to even mar any screw heads.
If it fouls before the threads engage or tightens before the head is level with the surface, then you need to remove, & pressure sensitive tape it to the baseplate somewhere were it wont foul and the next repair person will put it back. Also do this is you are not confident about watch repair...
Recommend you apply partners nail varnish to grub when you have finished the rework, as it can come undone by itself, the grub can go into (dissappear) the hole some way but the nail vanish can be removed later when needed even if this happens. I also dab varnish on all the other top plate securing screws. You need a pin dip in varnish on applicator brush, and quickly deposit accross edge of screw head, partner may be better at this...
You really need a good digcam if you are stripping the FSU cams, wish I had one. Like the one that did the shots you posted... You may need to strip the Kiev eventually...
Noel
If this is not clear search on member Russ Pinchbeck his site has a rebuild manual in pixels, with pointer to the screws I'd recommend backing off.
if yours has a fixed take up then you need to remove this screwdrivers again before you can replace the grub.
flashover
John K
Thanks found the little hole. It want back in no problem. Thread untill the head was flush. I backed it out and applied some clear fix (used for mounting clear windows in models) Then threaded it back and put a drop over the head. Camera seams to fuction norrmal. John
Xmas
Veteran
John
The post is a spacer it holds the top casting away from the main chassis, It may make the shutter release a bit heavy if the two parts are too close, not this is observation I did not see why this happened. If you did not tighten/losen the other screws it should not matter.
Noel
The post is a spacer it holds the top casting away from the main chassis, It may make the shutter release a bit heavy if the two parts are too close, not this is observation I did not see why this happened. If you did not tighten/losen the other screws it should not matter.
Noel