lowep
Member
Much to my chagrin I have got to the age where I need glasses for both reading and distance vision and am trying to figure out the best set up for using an Epson R-D1 rangefinder camera that I am in the process of buying.
This is confusing me as I can see (no pun intended) that I will need to both focus via the manual rangefinder, which seems to require accurate distance viewing, and also adjust the manual controls on the camera body that requires close up reading, right?
Surely I am not the first to experience this so would like to hear from anyone else about how to juggle this so everything works as smoothly as possible. How do you manage it?
Unfortunately I am not an optician and also do not understand very well the relationship of eyesight strength or as in my case weakness to how a rangefinder system works. Is the rangefinder patch focused on at the actual (very close) distance from the eye or a virtual distance created by the mirror system that is further away?
I have kept in my dry cabinet my old Mamiya 7 that I guess has a similar rangefinder focusing system with two overlapping yellow rectangles in the finder? When I try to focus the Mamiya 7 without glasses the rectangles are a bit fuzzy. Same goes when I try to do so with my reading glasses. But when I try to focus with the distance zone (+0.50) of my progressive glasses everything is quite clear.
If this is the case then maybe the best solution is the progressive glasses (that I dislike) using the upper distance field for focusing and the lower reading field for adjusting camera controls? That would be fine if it were not such a PITA wearing them all the time!
The most attractive alternative option I have stumbled across so far is to use a screw in diopter on the R-D1 to assist with the slight boost to my distance vision that I need for focusing then slip on my reading glasses when I need to adjust the controls, as I already do with DSLR. Would this work?
If this option would work not sure what diopter I would need to compensate for the +0.50 distance glasses and what diopters are available, as have read but not found out exactly yet what non-OEM Epson diopters made by other manufacturers fit the R-D1.
Well this post has ended up being a lot longer than I intended. Maybe it is easier to write questions about manual focusing and reading camera controls than to actually do it
This is confusing me as I can see (no pun intended) that I will need to both focus via the manual rangefinder, which seems to require accurate distance viewing, and also adjust the manual controls on the camera body that requires close up reading, right?
Surely I am not the first to experience this so would like to hear from anyone else about how to juggle this so everything works as smoothly as possible. How do you manage it?
Unfortunately I am not an optician and also do not understand very well the relationship of eyesight strength or as in my case weakness to how a rangefinder system works. Is the rangefinder patch focused on at the actual (very close) distance from the eye or a virtual distance created by the mirror system that is further away?
I have kept in my dry cabinet my old Mamiya 7 that I guess has a similar rangefinder focusing system with two overlapping yellow rectangles in the finder? When I try to focus the Mamiya 7 without glasses the rectangles are a bit fuzzy. Same goes when I try to do so with my reading glasses. But when I try to focus with the distance zone (+0.50) of my progressive glasses everything is quite clear.
If this is the case then maybe the best solution is the progressive glasses (that I dislike) using the upper distance field for focusing and the lower reading field for adjusting camera controls? That would be fine if it were not such a PITA wearing them all the time!
The most attractive alternative option I have stumbled across so far is to use a screw in diopter on the R-D1 to assist with the slight boost to my distance vision that I need for focusing then slip on my reading glasses when I need to adjust the controls, as I already do with DSLR. Would this work?
If this option would work not sure what diopter I would need to compensate for the +0.50 distance glasses and what diopters are available, as have read but not found out exactly yet what non-OEM Epson diopters made by other manufacturers fit the R-D1.
Well this post has ended up being a lot longer than I intended. Maybe it is easier to write questions about manual focusing and reading camera controls than to actually do it
pb908
Well-known
i have several diopter which fit epson rd1, i believe they are for nikon old slr (F or FM series) but i forget the exact one. i believe you can search about this on google. nikon stuff should be cheap and easy to be found. hopefully that helps
Pioneer
Veteran
I gave up on diopters as it was just one more thing. I just leave my bifocals on now. The only time this causes some problems is when I am using a 28mm lens and have trouble seeing the edges of the frame, but I just assume anything I can see will be in the picture and don't get to worried about it.
muser53
MUSER53
No real problem. Get a pair of bifocals or better yet progressive lenses. I've been in this boat for many years and have no focusing problems with my M6.
Godfrey
somewhat colored
I've been using progressive lens eyeglasses for about 15 years. I've not found any problems with them regards seeing clearly enough in the viewfinder or making settings.
Occasionally I get a bit mashed up into an odd contortion with the camera to achieve an unusual angle which makes it hard to see, but that's the rarity.
G
Occasionally I get a bit mashed up into an odd contortion with the camera to achieve an unusual angle which makes it hard to see, but that's the rarity.
G
it'sawhat?
Established
bifocals wear them get used to them . I adjusted to having them very quickly.
Timmyjoe
Veteran
I've tried a number of fixes, depending on the camera.
For my Leica rangefinders, I use a diopter. For film, that's easy. For digital, I use the diopter so I can focus accurately, and then I used my "reading glasses" to work my way through all the controls on the back of the camera. I learned them all (memorized them) so now I can adjust everything without having to see real clearly. So I can shoot quickly without wearing any glasses. I don't use the rear LCD for anything but quick "chimps" when I have difficult exposure needs, and I can see the blurry image well enough without my glasses to know if I need to adjust anything.
For my Nikon Digitals, fortunately they each have adjustable diopters. So I adjust each to my eye for focusing. Then I took my "reading glasses" and again memorized the important menu options and where they are, so I can adjust them when out in the field shooting without my glasses. And I do the same as with the Leica digital whenever I have to "chimp" any exposure.
So my formula is "diopter for focus" and "memorize the important settings" so I can shoot without glasses.
I see alot of folks recommending bi-focals, but since I didn't start wearing glasses until recently, I've been shooting cameras for forty years without glasses on, and I have never gotten comfortable having eyeglasses between me and the camera viewfinder.
Hope that helps.
Best,
-Tim
For my Leica rangefinders, I use a diopter. For film, that's easy. For digital, I use the diopter so I can focus accurately, and then I used my "reading glasses" to work my way through all the controls on the back of the camera. I learned them all (memorized them) so now I can adjust everything without having to see real clearly. So I can shoot quickly without wearing any glasses. I don't use the rear LCD for anything but quick "chimps" when I have difficult exposure needs, and I can see the blurry image well enough without my glasses to know if I need to adjust anything.
For my Nikon Digitals, fortunately they each have adjustable diopters. So I adjust each to my eye for focusing. Then I took my "reading glasses" and again memorized the important menu options and where they are, so I can adjust them when out in the field shooting without my glasses. And I do the same as with the Leica digital whenever I have to "chimp" any exposure.
So my formula is "diopter for focus" and "memorize the important settings" so I can shoot without glasses.
I see alot of folks recommending bi-focals, but since I didn't start wearing glasses until recently, I've been shooting cameras for forty years without glasses on, and I have never gotten comfortable having eyeglasses between me and the camera viewfinder.
Hope that helps.
Best,
-Tim
lowep
Member
This helps a LOT!
I am tempted to try the diopter route rather than getting used to wearing progressives or bifocals that I have been working on for 2 years now and will also do sooner or later as well as finish eating all my vegetables etc. Heck maybe I will even grow up one day?
Meanwhile how do you determine the right diopter? I am not sure if what is needed for focusing a rangefinder is distance correction (that I suspect?) or reading correction as the camera is close to the eye?
Also unsure if the +/- formula for the diopter should be the same as the one for my glasses or not?
It is good to know other manufacturers apart from Epson make diopters that fit the R-D1, thanks for the tip! I will follow it up.
I am tempted to try the diopter route rather than getting used to wearing progressives or bifocals that I have been working on for 2 years now and will also do sooner or later as well as finish eating all my vegetables etc. Heck maybe I will even grow up one day?
Meanwhile how do you determine the right diopter? I am not sure if what is needed for focusing a rangefinder is distance correction (that I suspect?) or reading correction as the camera is close to the eye?
Also unsure if the +/- formula for the diopter should be the same as the one for my glasses or not?
It is good to know other manufacturers apart from Epson make diopters that fit the R-D1, thanks for the tip! I will follow it up.
mfogiel
Veteran
You have two good solutions, one fiddly, the other with some side effects:
1) progressive glasses ( best are the thin carbon type with titanium mount - they are the lightest, do not scratch, and are thin enough not to block too much of your VF)
Pros: you can change the glasses if your eyesight deteriorates further
Cons: glasses of any kind are a PITA, and a good pair will cost you 1000EUR (in Europe)
2) laser eye surgery - nowadays there are femto- precision lasers available, and the surgery is very reliable
Pros: you get rid of the glasses, and you pay only once (normally the cost is comparable to 3 pairs of good progressive glasses)
Cons: often, after the surgery you get problems with eye lubrification, so you need drops, or have to be careful not to de-hydrate the body
1) progressive glasses ( best are the thin carbon type with titanium mount - they are the lightest, do not scratch, and are thin enough not to block too much of your VF)
Pros: you can change the glasses if your eyesight deteriorates further
Cons: glasses of any kind are a PITA, and a good pair will cost you 1000EUR (in Europe)
2) laser eye surgery - nowadays there are femto- precision lasers available, and the surgery is very reliable
Pros: you get rid of the glasses, and you pay only once (normally the cost is comparable to 3 pairs of good progressive glasses)
Cons: often, after the surgery you get problems with eye lubrification, so you need drops, or have to be careful not to de-hydrate the body
cz23
-
I can't answer you question, but I recall a discussion on LUF where the Dale Photo rep offered to send anyone all the common Leica diopters to try and you would keep the one that worked best. Or, your optometrist could probably tell you.
John
thegman
Veteran
Also, bear in mind that you really only need to focus perfectly for fast lenses, and if your subject is close up. For subjects say, over 30 feet away, at f/8, you can be very lax with your focusing indeed.
Some of my favourite cameras don't even allow you to see focus at all, you just dial in a guesstimate on the lens.
Some of my favourite cameras don't even allow you to see focus at all, you just dial in a guesstimate on the lens.
Pioneer
Veteran
If you do decide to take the diopter route, call your eye doctor and tell him/her what you are doing. They can give you the best advice based on your current prescription. Bear in mind though that if your eyesight can still change, and likely will, so you will probably have to buy a stronger diopter down the road a bit. Over a period of about 10 years my eyesight changed quite quickly. Your own experience may differ but you should keep it in mind as you begin buying diopters.
john_s
Well-known
I need a (minus) diopter to focus a Leica. I've learned to operate all controls through feel. I started learning this when using the camera in darkened theatres, and now that in less than optimal light I can't read the numbers close up it is handy. It has become quite automatic and intuitive.
This of course wouldn't work with most modern cameras with their multiplicity of controls!
This of course wouldn't work with most modern cameras with their multiplicity of controls!
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
If you were a contact lens wearer I'd suggest monovision contacts. Photgraphically they were the best thing I ever did.
dave lackey
Veteran
noisycheese
Normal(ish) Human
When you have your eye exam, ask for a copy of your prescription. It will have your diopter correction listed. If it is -1.0 (for example), get the -1.0 diopter eyepiece for your camera.
rhl-oregon
Cameras Guitars Wonders
I use progressives to manage distance and seeing the Mazda's speedometer, e.g., but I use single vision computer glasses for work. And I prefer shooting with a diopter. I'm around -2/-2.5, as I know from renting scuba masks, and yes, it's going to be the distance-vision number that matters. As for surgery, I've never had or needed any, and plan to avoid it (especially with my eyes).
I have diopters for my M5 and Pen FT, and adjustable dioptrics in the OM4 and Contax G (and or course in my digital EVFs). I don't mind being sorta blind/leaving glasses off when I'm in shooting territory, because I see well enough to know what I want to focus on, but it's no big deal to push the glasses back on my head when I shoot. Some of my cameras won't accept dioptrics, though, so I have to use my prog lenses there. Also not a big deal. Your optician/optometrist should be able to help. (There's probably a giant Leitz optical contraption in his/her office.) Or go to the closest scuba rental place! Especially if you live in the Midwest heat, it's a great reason to go to Kauai to get your eyes checked at Snorkel Bob's, and cool off with a Nikonos among the parrotfish.
I am nearsighted but have no problem in the focus department or looking at things closeup. My trouble is seeing at a distance without glasses but looking through the camera lens or using a rangefinder is no problem. I think if you need it the diopter thing is a good idea.
lowep
Member
Found 2 diopters for Nikon F that if I understand right fit fine on the Epson R-D1 one same as my distance prescription +0.5 and another +1.0 & look forwards to seeing how they work out. Meanwhile thanks for all the useful advice that makes me happy I am not the only one in this situation.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
If you don't feel a need for distance correction for anything but photography, then the diopter route makes good sense. You could just use those half-height reading glasses like airline pilots wear, when you need to adjust the camera. You can use a neck strap on them to keep them handy.
Me, I need glasses to see at any distance but close-up; so I just leave my trifocals on all the time.
Me, I need glasses to see at any distance but close-up; so I just leave my trifocals on all the time.