rbsinto
Well-known
The thread regarding the availability of a black SP and drive mentions in passing the conversion of F36 to SP and S3 compatible "S"36 drives, and I was wondering if anyone has first-hand knowledge of the process. I'm not all that interested in the cosmetics, but merely what is involved in the nuts and bolts to cut down the drive so it will fit and work.
Any insights that would both guide me and allow me to decide whether or not to tackle this would be most appreciated.
Please and thank you
Any insights that would both guide me and allow me to decide whether or not to tackle this would be most appreciated.
Please and thank you
Vickko
Veteran
I have transplanted two F36 guts into gutted S36 motors.
The guts are not quite identical, and I do recall having to do something special to get the grounding correct. But most of the parts, motor, motor mount, etc's are interchangeable, including right down to mount hole drill patterns.
The body castings between the two are slightly different, because the F body is just a bit wider than the S.
I do believe back in the day when the camera was used commonly, replacements between F36 and S36 parts was common, as they weren't exactly reliable and needed lots of maintenance.
Vick
The guts are not quite identical, and I do recall having to do something special to get the grounding correct. But most of the parts, motor, motor mount, etc's are interchangeable, including right down to mount hole drill patterns.
The body castings between the two are slightly different, because the F body is just a bit wider than the S.
I do believe back in the day when the camera was used commonly, replacements between F36 and S36 parts was common, as they weren't exactly reliable and needed lots of maintenance.
Vick
dugwerks
Member
And a good job Vick did on them too. I still have one of them . HI vick
rbsinto
Well-known
Ahh, memories.
Where would we be without them?
But Douglas, your stroll down Memory Lane ain't helping me with my questions.
Vickko
Veteran
I am thinking the major requirements are:
- must modify the SP inner bottom plate for motor coupling. You need to get the parts from an F motor plate, drill two holes on the bottom and drill and tap one side hole for the lever arm
- you need to sacrifice the SP back, and drill it appropriately for the motor casting
- you need to get the F36 motor casting, and cut off the appropriate part to make it fit the SP back. You need to determine which part to remove, but keep the necessary mounting areas for the casting. I could figure it out, if I had the parts in front of me
- you need to also cut away the exterior motor housing, to shorten it. I would carefully lift off the leatherette, figure out which area to cut away, and then merge the two parts together again. You have to keep the frame counter parts, which I recall are different between a true S36 versus an F36. I'd have to look at a photo of the two to be sure.
- if you use an F36, you wire it identically as an F36. But the S36 wiring, with its counter, is just slightly different, for the grounding.
Best to buy the S36 and F36 repair manual, because it contains the wiring diagrams.
Hope this helps.
Do you intend to take on this project? I think it would be perfectly feasible.
...Vick
- must modify the SP inner bottom plate for motor coupling. You need to get the parts from an F motor plate, drill two holes on the bottom and drill and tap one side hole for the lever arm
- you need to sacrifice the SP back, and drill it appropriately for the motor casting
- you need to get the F36 motor casting, and cut off the appropriate part to make it fit the SP back. You need to determine which part to remove, but keep the necessary mounting areas for the casting. I could figure it out, if I had the parts in front of me
- you need to also cut away the exterior motor housing, to shorten it. I would carefully lift off the leatherette, figure out which area to cut away, and then merge the two parts together again. You have to keep the frame counter parts, which I recall are different between a true S36 versus an F36. I'd have to look at a photo of the two to be sure.
- if you use an F36, you wire it identically as an F36. But the S36 wiring, with its counter, is just slightly different, for the grounding.
Best to buy the S36 and F36 repair manual, because it contains the wiring diagrams.
Hope this helps.
Do you intend to take on this project? I think it would be perfectly feasible.
...Vick
rbsinto
Well-known
Vick,
Thanks for the details.
Yes, it is a project I've thought about tackling for a while now, and I may give it a shot.
There are a couple of points in your details that I don't follow.
I seem to recall Fred commenting that an F motor plate could be used merely by cutting out a section from the center and screwing the two end pieces onto the camera bottom.
Also it is unclear to me why the F motor drive back simply can't be shortened to fit the body of the S3/SP, without "sacrificing" the SP back.
Thanks for the details.
Yes, it is a project I've thought about tackling for a while now, and I may give it a shot.
There are a couple of points in your details that I don't follow.
I seem to recall Fred commenting that an F motor plate could be used merely by cutting out a section from the center and screwing the two end pieces onto the camera bottom.
Also it is unclear to me why the F motor drive back simply can't be shortened to fit the body of the S3/SP, without "sacrificing" the SP back.
Vickko
Veteran
Hello
I suppose you could use the F back and shorten it, but I don't know how you'd get it joined back together, and sufficiently rigid to have it serve its purpose. Maybe worth experimenting, before using the SP back.
For the SP back, holes would need to be drilled into the bottom, and that's all.
...Vick
I suppose you could use the F back and shorten it, but I don't know how you'd get it joined back together, and sufficiently rigid to have it serve its purpose. Maybe worth experimenting, before using the SP back.
For the SP back, holes would need to be drilled into the bottom, and that's all.
...Vick
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
I too have seen a lot of these in Japan. Mainly S3/SP with the drive from a F36 cut down and soldered together and then stuck to the S3/SP back.
Somebody who knows about these things warned me about them though. The F36 drive is evidently more powerful and can damage the shutter system of a SP/S3 when used.
Dont know if it is true - or just an old wife's tale.
My experience with S36's is not that good. Used one in the 60's and it kept exposing the whole roll when triggered!!!!!! I got quite adept at pulling the power cord out of the socket when it started going "clunk, whirr, clunk whirr". Well, my M2M would only do 23-24 frames and then freeze up - so between the two, I covered must of a situation!
Somebody who knows about these things warned me about them though. The F36 drive is evidently more powerful and can damage the shutter system of a SP/S3 when used.
Dont know if it is true - or just an old wife's tale.
My experience with S36's is not that good. Used one in the 60's and it kept exposing the whole roll when triggered!!!!!! I got quite adept at pulling the power cord out of the socket when it started going "clunk, whirr, clunk whirr". Well, my M2M would only do 23-24 frames and then freeze up - so between the two, I covered must of a situation!
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Dear Tom,
Exactly the same as the F36, in my experience. But as I recall, with a Remopack there was nothing you could do to stop it.
Cheers,
R.
rbsinto
Well-known
Interesting.
My F has been motorized for about seven or eight years at least, and I've never had any problems with the F36. Works like a champ.
My F has been motorized for about seven or eight years at least, and I've never had any problems with the F36. Works like a champ.