KoNickon
Nick Merritt
Sorry, meant to say "IKEA lamp."
rxmd
May contain traces of nut
The nearest Ikea is 250 miles away!!! They do not offer this online. Strike two; I guess I will have to use a black light.
It's not like this is a magic lamp or something. Just buy the cheapest Chinese white-light LED lamp you can find. By virtue of being cheap, it will do the job of emitting near-UV.
rxmd
May contain traces of nut
I think he got out of this thread two weeks ago, so whether he "gets it" is not the question anymore.
neilvan
Newbie
Thanks for posting this, my OM 55mm f1.2 will be like a new lens! I have an Ikea just down the road...
Uncle Fester
Well-known
That's what I first did with my 50mm. The problem is, at that time the sun only shone for a day, then I forgot about it, then rain happened, then I remembered I had a lens on the window!
To my surprise, the lens still works. I think rain might have damaged the coating though, and that in some years fungus might appear… But oh well, still trying to bleach it now.
I may be mistaken, but I've heard that the UV radiation will also kill fungus spores. Anybody know anything about this?
vha
Isn't it coffee time ?
Just bought one in Norway
Just bought one in Norway
Got my hands on a European version of the lamp, and it looks to me that ikea have been cheap with the foot of the lamp too (at least the weight inside it) , and since Ikea in general is cheap (either a good or a bad thing) I assume the difference for US and mine is that mine has a europlug/CEE 7/16/type C power-plug on the adapter and is 220V.
Will try the lenscleaning later this week.
vha
Just bought one in Norway
Got my hands on a European version of the lamp, and it looks to me that ikea have been cheap with the foot of the lamp too (at least the weight inside it) , and since Ikea in general is cheap (either a good or a bad thing) I assume the difference for US and mine is that mine has a europlug/CEE 7/16/type C power-plug on the adapter and is 220V.
Will try the lenscleaning later this week.
vha
rogerzilla
Well-known
The thorium probably kills them anyway. An anecdote from Peter at CRR Luton; when he was serving in the Far East they had a load of binoculars shipped over from England and within a few weeks most were completely fogged up by fungal growth in the hot, humid environment.
Except the ones with thorium glass...
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
Probably not - there are fungi inside the Chernobyl reactor building actually living on radiation as their only source of energy.
Spores would get killed by ionizing UVC radiation - but that is not the same range as the UVA or visible violet used for bleaching. So that that would be a separate treatment. Caution: You must use a proper sterilizing apparatus, never operate a bare UVC source, it can make you blind and cause radiation burns.
bucs
Well-known
yellooow
yellooow
And I thought my spotmatic's meter was broken :bang: I checked my 50mm takumar just now and it is yellow. now i need to get one of those UV lamps
yellooow
And I thought my spotmatic's meter was broken :bang: I checked my 50mm takumar just now and it is yellow. now i need to get one of those UV lamps
asparis
Biggreydog
Bah! Went to the Ikea website. The JANSJO lamps appear in the catalog, but are not sold on-line. You can only buy them at the store, which in my case is about 20 miles away.
Is there any chance that a "Black" light would work? Or is that a completely different kind of UV?
Is there any chance that a "Black" light would work? Or is that a completely different kind of UV?
filmtwit
Desperate but not serious
Take lens and put it on an indoor window sill that gets a decent about of sunshine. The UV light will clear it up nice and natural in a few days.
gorbas
Member
Hi Guys,
I'm hoping that somebody is still following this thread? There is my first result with Ikea LED light:
I can't see "huge" difference between treated and untreated SMC Takumar's 1.4/50. The treated lens is definitely less yellow than untreated, but... Real test is going to be with Super Takumar 2/35 that is seriously affected by yellowing.
Goran
PS I have problem posting image here, If you can't see picture please try:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/26983280@N00/6203881879/in/photostream
I'm hoping that somebody is still following this thread? There is my first result with Ikea LED light:
I can't see "huge" difference between treated and untreated SMC Takumar's 1.4/50. The treated lens is definitely less yellow than untreated, but... Real test is going to be with Super Takumar 2/35 that is seriously affected by yellowing.
Goran
PS I have problem posting image here, If you can't see picture please try:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/26983280@N00/6203881879/in/photostream
gorbas
Member
Hi filmtwit,
As you know, we don't have much sunshine on Pacific northwest and my apartment is facing north, so Ikea LED light was very elegant solution.
As you know, we don't have much sunshine on Pacific northwest and my apartment is facing north, so Ikea LED light was very elegant solution.
Flat Twin
Film Shooter
I read this thread a few weeks ago and got quite excited about the Ikea lamp. I have an early Nikkor N 35mm f1.4 that is quite yellow'd and I would love to clean it up.
Well after the usual annoying trip to Ikea I successfully picked up the lamp and it is now sat on my desk shining into the lens. Time will tell!
Initial thoughts are that the lamp emits quite a "warm" light not a white light.
I'll update with the results in a day or so!
Simon
Well after the usual annoying trip to Ikea I successfully picked up the lamp and it is now sat on my desk shining into the lens. Time will tell!
Initial thoughts are that the lamp emits quite a "warm" light not a white light.
I'll update with the results in a day or so!
Simon
drew.saunders
Well-known
They're also only $10 (at least in the US). I use two for tabletop photography. Since I shoot B&W film, the color balance of LED doesn't bother me. These are really nice little lamps at a dirt-cheap price. IKEA also sells one with a clamp base that's much more expensive.
n5jrn
Well-known
Natural thorium has a very long half-life, which means its rate of emission of radiation is very slow. So I wouldn't worry about radiation-induced sensor damage from occasionally using a lens with a thoriated element. If thoriated lenses spewed radiation like mad, they would never have been invented, because they would have fogged film.
From chasing around Wikipedia articles, most of its decay chain involves alpha and beta emission only. Such particles do not have much penetrating power; storing a thoriated lens in a sealed mason jar should be sufficient shielding. (Toss in a bag of dessicant to keep the fungus at bay.)
photografity
Established
I happened to pick up a 1958 Jupiter-8 that has some yellow glass.... I have to admit, I liked the warm cast this puts on the images.
Now that I came across this thread, Is it safe to assume that this "yellow" is Thorium?
Now that I came across this thread, Is it safe to assume that this "yellow" is Thorium?
szpeter
Newbie
Ikea Jansjö lamp to bleach lenses - not all of them
Ikea Jansjö lamp to bleach lenses - not all of them
I was really excited reading about such a simple tool for bleaching old lenses. I bought a Minolta PG 58 1.2 in nice condition, but the lenses were, well, not yellow, rather brown. The strength of discoloration did not only affect colors, but it must have definitely worsen light transmission, meaning the F1.2 position was close to F2 in reality.
No worries it is just question of few hours with Jansjö lamp and my lens should be like new. I paid a visit to Ikea and found a collection of Jansjö lamps. None had the Ikea product number mentioned before, but one looked exactly the same as described at the beginning of this thread. Since Ikea has a policy that they take everything back I took no risk by buying this version of Jansjö, which held the Ikea number: 602.137.82. I hoped that this is the Hungarian product lot of the same lamp (this was in Ikea Budapest, Hungary).
I put the lens to the lamp and started the process. After three days no change could be detected. I gave back the lamp to Ikea and was 100% compensated.
But the idea of using LED lamp for this purpose suggestedd that I should look around and give other type of LEDs a try. I have a Walther tactical spot lamp (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/143019/walther-tactical-pro-flashlight-led-bulb-aluminum-black), with 170 lumen LED beam, much stronger than Jansjö. I used a small 220V to 6V converter and some wires to maintain electric power for three days long, so 10-15 minutes DIY is needed. The Walther seems working with 5V too, so any smart phone mains converter can be used. This setup worked perfectly, after three days my lens was cured. Although it is a bit more expensive than Jansjö, but can be used widely for other purposes.
Conclusion is that it is worth trying strong LED torches before switching to UV.
Ikea Jansjö lamp to bleach lenses - not all of them
I was really excited reading about such a simple tool for bleaching old lenses. I bought a Minolta PG 58 1.2 in nice condition, but the lenses were, well, not yellow, rather brown. The strength of discoloration did not only affect colors, but it must have definitely worsen light transmission, meaning the F1.2 position was close to F2 in reality.
No worries it is just question of few hours with Jansjö lamp and my lens should be like new. I paid a visit to Ikea and found a collection of Jansjö lamps. None had the Ikea product number mentioned before, but one looked exactly the same as described at the beginning of this thread. Since Ikea has a policy that they take everything back I took no risk by buying this version of Jansjö, which held the Ikea number: 602.137.82. I hoped that this is the Hungarian product lot of the same lamp (this was in Ikea Budapest, Hungary).
I put the lens to the lamp and started the process. After three days no change could be detected. I gave back the lamp to Ikea and was 100% compensated.
But the idea of using LED lamp for this purpose suggestedd that I should look around and give other type of LEDs a try. I have a Walther tactical spot lamp (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/143019/walther-tactical-pro-flashlight-led-bulb-aluminum-black), with 170 lumen LED beam, much stronger than Jansjö. I used a small 220V to 6V converter and some wires to maintain electric power for three days long, so 10-15 minutes DIY is needed. The Walther seems working with 5V too, so any smart phone mains converter can be used. This setup worked perfectly, after three days my lens was cured. Although it is a bit more expensive than Jansjö, but can be used widely for other purposes.
Conclusion is that it is worth trying strong LED torches before switching to UV.
Ernst Dinkla
Well-known
Bug Killer UV source is faster
Bug Killer UV source is faster
Could not resist an Alpina UV bug killer action at the Makro here some years ago. 12 Euro for a nice near Braun/Dieter Rams design and I detest bugs. Used it and it did not kill any bugs, they probably prefer dirty, ugly places to die.
Then I liked to see what a Wray 2" f1.0 copy lens could do on an M4/3. as it is or with the front lens removed. Elements were near brown. I expected it would not be the last lens that had to be bleached. So I took the Alpina apart and removed all the High Voltage parts, kept the lamp and the casing. Put aluminium foil everywhere inside as a reflector and made sure no contact was made anywhere with the electricity. Put the Wray in that UV chamber and expected it would stay there for at least a night. After 4 hours the lens was crystal clear. The Alpina does not look so nice anymore though. I guess this thing was never a success as a bug killer. The only page that shows the Alpina JW9WA is this one and it carries another name. The lamp is a common UV CFL for bug killing.
http://www.conrad.ch/ce/fr/product/...710001&tduid=4a2a2b78a66ec4e73caf8c49757198d5
Bug Killer UV source is faster
Could not resist an Alpina UV bug killer action at the Makro here some years ago. 12 Euro for a nice near Braun/Dieter Rams design and I detest bugs. Used it and it did not kill any bugs, they probably prefer dirty, ugly places to die.
Then I liked to see what a Wray 2" f1.0 copy lens could do on an M4/3. as it is or with the front lens removed. Elements were near brown. I expected it would not be the last lens that had to be bleached. So I took the Alpina apart and removed all the High Voltage parts, kept the lamp and the casing. Put aluminium foil everywhere inside as a reflector and made sure no contact was made anywhere with the electricity. Put the Wray in that UV chamber and expected it would stay there for at least a night. After 4 hours the lens was crystal clear. The Alpina does not look so nice anymore though. I guess this thing was never a success as a bug killer. The only page that shows the Alpina JW9WA is this one and it carries another name. The lamp is a common UV CFL for bug killing.
http://www.conrad.ch/ce/fr/product/...710001&tduid=4a2a2b78a66ec4e73caf8c49757198d5
Ernst Dinkla
Well-known
Bug Killer UV source is faster
Bug Killer UV source is faster
Could not resist an Alpina UV bug killer action at the Makro here some years ago. 12 Euro for a nice near Braun/Dieter Rams design and I detest bugs. Used it and it did not kill any bugs, they probably prefer dirty, ugly places to die.
Then I liked to see what a Wray 2" f1.0 copy lens could do on an M4/3. as it is or with the front lens removed. Elements were near brown. I expected it would not be the last lens that had to be bleached. So I took the Alpina apart and removed all the High Voltage parts, kept the lamp and the casing. Put aluminium foil everywhere as a reflector inside and made sure no contact was made anywhere with the electricity. Put the Wray in that UV chamber and expected it would stay there for at least a night. After 4 hours the lens was crystal clear. The Alpina does not look so nice anymore though. I guess this thing was never a success as a bug killer. The only page that shows the Alpina JW9WA is this one and it carries another name. The lamp is a common UV CFL for bug killing.
http://www.conrad.ch/ce/fr/product/...710001&tduid=4a2a2b78a66ec4e73caf8c49757198d5
Bug Killer UV source is faster
Could not resist an Alpina UV bug killer action at the Makro here some years ago. 12 Euro for a nice near Braun/Dieter Rams design and I detest bugs. Used it and it did not kill any bugs, they probably prefer dirty, ugly places to die.
Then I liked to see what a Wray 2" f1.0 copy lens could do on an M4/3. as it is or with the front lens removed. Elements were near brown. I expected it would not be the last lens that had to be bleached. So I took the Alpina apart and removed all the High Voltage parts, kept the lamp and the casing. Put aluminium foil everywhere as a reflector inside and made sure no contact was made anywhere with the electricity. Put the Wray in that UV chamber and expected it would stay there for at least a night. After 4 hours the lens was crystal clear. The Alpina does not look so nice anymore though. I guess this thing was never a success as a bug killer. The only page that shows the Alpina JW9WA is this one and it carries another name. The lamp is a common UV CFL for bug killing.
http://www.conrad.ch/ce/fr/product/...710001&tduid=4a2a2b78a66ec4e73caf8c49757198d5