oldwino
Well-known
I've now read reports that 5222 negatives are of the dreaded purple/pink variety.
Well, that's one of the main reasons I have (for now) sworn off Tri-X.
My ideal film will be exposed at EI 200 and developed in HC110 (time not under 5 minutes, please)
yielding contrasty negatives, on a clear durable base.
In light of the above more specific preferences further suggestions appreciated.
As mentioned before pushing 100 or pulling 400 speed films is acceptable to me.
Of course I realize any recommendation will only be a starting point.
I'd just rather not wind up with $100 worth of an unsuitable film...
TIA,
Chris
No purple/pink on my 5222. I'm shooting it at 200 and developing it in xtol.
Attachments
Nokton48
Veteran
I've now read reports that 5222 negatives are of the dreaded purple/pink variety.
I've shot and developed hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of rolls of XX in all kinds of developers. I've never seen purple/pink negs
Maybe if you use outdated fixer?? Never seen it
Contarama
Well-known
I miss Tom.
davidnewtonguitars
Family Snaps
This is Arista EDU 200 that I shoot regularly.
Does this look like "cold water reticulation"?
The tap was 65F. I normally try to get it to 70F.
I was testing a camera. It was a hurry-up test strip and I developed 1:100 Rodinal stand.
Does this look like "cold water reticulation"?
The tap was 65F. I normally try to get it to 70F.
I was testing a camera. It was a hurry-up test strip and I developed 1:100 Rodinal stand.

tunalegs
Pretended Artist
Not like any I've ever seen.
davidnewtonguitars
Family Snaps
Maybe just scratched the heck out of loading the short test strip in the reel, or just horsing the piece of film out of the camera without pulling it back into the can
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
I think the reason kodak says not to increase developing for ISO 200 is that they are afraid we will block the highlights if we increased the development time. When I shot TMX100, I tried increasing development to boost midrange contrast, and usually wound up with blocked highlights. So evidently Kodak would rather we settle for a thinner negative than to risk blocking highlights. Me, I gave up on the stuff. I prefer Delta 100 and Delta 400 to T-Max.
ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
Eastman 5222 film meets my requirements and I really like the results many of you are getting with it.
However I am concerned about some reports of purple or pink negatives.
Have any of you 5222 users experienced this problem common with other Kodak films?
I remember reading reports of QC issues with older production Fomapan 200 film.
I had already decided not to try this film due to spectral sensitivity issues.
Chris
However I am concerned about some reports of purple or pink negatives.
Have any of you 5222 users experienced this problem common with other Kodak films?
I remember reading reports of QC issues with older production Fomapan 200 film.
I had already decided not to try this film due to spectral sensitivity issues.
Chris
Nokton48
Veteran
Never ever.
bayernfan
Well-known
fomapan 200 (if you can find it) is the bomb.
Freakscene
Obscure member
Eastman 5222 film meets my requirements and I really like the results many of you are getting with it.
However I am concerned about some reports of purple or pink negatives.
Have any of you 5222 users experienced this problem common with other Kodak films?
Yes, but under similar conditions to other Kodak films, mostly just near the end of the life of the fixer when the pH is changing. An hour in the sun removes the colour cast.
I remember reading reports of QC issues with older production Fomapan 200 film. I had already decided not to try this film due to spectral sensitivity issues.
Does this pose a particular problem for you? The extinction point is <50nm further into the red than, say, Tri-X. Just interested.
Marty
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ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
In the last decade my Tri-X (and Plus-X, too) came out very pink/purple even with fresh fixer.
I don't use TMax but I read reports of similar effects occuring with those films.
I figured this might be attributed to some Kodak "innovation", and common to all their BW films.
Is Eastman 5222 that different, despite being a member of the Kodak family of BW films?
Chris
I don't use TMax but I read reports of similar effects occuring with those films.
I figured this might be attributed to some Kodak "innovation", and common to all their BW films.
Is Eastman 5222 that different, despite being a member of the Kodak family of BW films?
Chris
J enea
Established
could mean that you are not washing enough. I always let kodak B&W films stand in a 74 degree wash water bath for 5 minutes after Ive done a proper wash to completely remove the dyes in the film. works for me and dont get the pink stain anymore.
ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
This is a well-documented problem with Tri-X. I am not interested in how to cope with it.
That has already been discussed in numerous threads here and on other forums.
To clarify I am interested to know if those who have experienced pink/purple negatives with Tri-X
find Eastman 5222 relatively free from this effect.
TIA,
Chris
That has already been discussed in numerous threads here and on other forums.
To clarify I am interested to know if those who have experienced pink/purple negatives with Tri-X
find Eastman 5222 relatively free from this effect.
TIA,
Chris
Nokton48
Veteran
Here are a few random rolls of mine (I also like beefy negs). I habitually bracket photos I want to have a choice. These are presently being processed in Legacy Mic-X. 5222 is an Eastman formulation from 1958. I'm sure it's not anything like modern XXX. The only "improvements" Eastman has made, over time, are hardening the outer layer, and adding additional lubricants, so it will glide through Hollywood 35mm movie cameras more smoothly. AFAIK they have never changed the emulsion formulation.
DSC05737 by Nokton48, on Flickr
Is Eastman 5222 that different, despite being a member of the Kodak family of BW films?
Yes, it really is. It's from Eastman's Cinema and Television division. Not designed for still photography.

Is Eastman 5222 that different, despite being a member of the Kodak family of BW films?
Yes, it really is. It's from Eastman's Cinema and Television division. Not designed for still photography.
f16sunshine
Moderator
This is Arista EDU 200 that I shoot regularly.
Does this look like "cold water reticulation"?
The tap was 65F. I normally try to get it to 70F.
I was testing a camera. It was a hurry-up test strip and I developed 1:100 Rodinal stand.
![]()
The old Foma/Edu 200 was easily scratched. When they changed it after not being able to get the materials for the old formula, it seems to be much more scratch resistant although still more suspect than some other films.
I like the Foma/Edu 200 a lot. It has that so called "Hybrid" grain.
The base is clear and stays flat for scanning.
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