Favorite XA (all types) hacks & is the XA2 lens better?

Favorite XA (all types) hacks & is the XA2 lens better?

  • No, I'd never alter a XA and shame on you for asking...

    Votes: 31 29.8%
  • Yes, I've not only made it better, but faster and stronger too

    Votes: 8 7.7%
  • The original XA lens rules, end of story, good night!

    Votes: 53 51.0%
  • Dispel the myth, the XA2 glass makes the best pictures and I am unanimous in this!

    Votes: 25 24.0%

  • Total voters
    104
  • This poll will close: .
About a year ago I picked up an XA and an XA1 and completed my "set" - I'll admit I haven't tried the XA1, at all, and one roll in the XA hasn't been enough to make me want to use it over the XA2 (best $30 I ever spent!), which has kept me company on many of my travels - a year ago I broke my M6 on the first day of a holiday in Thailand, and only had the XA2 as backup. It delivered!

I've found I have trouble keeping the XA4 straight when I shoot, but I guess I just have to shoot it differently.
 
i've had them all.
XA-3 is the best, xa-4 if you like 28mm
i marginally prefer xa-2 or 3 lens over xa and stylus infinity lens.
 
The original XA is, hands down, the most undervalued camera in the vintage film camera market. C'mon -- it is an aperture priority, manual focus TRUE rangefinder. Hell, it even gives you shutter speed in the viewfinder. It's FULL FRAME in your pocket. The lens is just fine. I modded mine -- a gift from a VERY generous RFF member several years ago, by doing the ole "sharpie over the patch" trick to improve contrast for focusing. Works a charm. If this camera wasn't so successful, and Olympus didn't sell a bazillion of them, and they were "rare", there would be bidding wars for these things. It is the best tool for street photograhy ever invented -- better than any Leica for this purpose. The lens does not protrude. It literally fits in any pocket -- for real and for true. It does not have to go through any start-up routine. Its shutter is virtually silent. The shutter release requires nearly zero pressure, reducing camera shake for lower shutter speeds. Slide open the door, it's ready to go. It has no noisy film advance motor. You have full manual control. It gets diss'd mainly because people don't spend a lot for them and they're plentiful, so they're taken for granted and underappreciated - but it's a near perfect tool for certain types of photography. It is a much better and far more relevant tool than, say, the much more expensive Nikon 35Ti from a practical standpoint. As for the others? What's the point? You give up too much... better off with a decent point and shoot from the 90's if you're going that route.

Full frame true rangefinder in your pocket with 100% manual control makes this camera a genuinely relevant photographic tool in the digital age... no need to explain, make a case for still shooting film, and no handicap points for nostalgia...
 
The original XA is, hands down, the most undervalued camera in the vintage film camera market. C'mon -- it is an aperture priority, manual focus TRUE rangefinder. Hell, it even gives you shutter speed in the viewfinder. It's FULL FRAME in your pocket. The lens is just fine. I modded mine -- a gift from a VERY generous RFF member several years ago, by doing the ole "sharpie over the patch" trick to improve contrast for focusing. Works a charm. If this camera wasn't so successful, and Olympus didn't sell a bazillion of them, and they were "rare", there would be bidding wars for these things. It is the best tool for street photograhy ever invented -- better than any Leica. The lens does not protrude. It does not have to go through any start-up routine. Its shutter is virtually silent. Slide open the door, it's ready to go. It has no noisy film advance motor. You have full manual control. It gets diss'd mainly because people don't spend a lot for them and they're plentiful - but it's a near perfect tool for certain types of photography.
 
I sold several XA2 cameras, and (by mistake) sold the XA4 for $40.

Ouch!

I just traded a black OM2n body for an XA4. It should come in the mail this week.

I've had a few XA's over the years and they always malfunctioned somehow. A buddy of mine gave me an XA2 while I was on my motorcycle trip this summer and the results are quite good. I like it more than my XA's because it is less fiddly and its limited feature set better match its form factor and use as a point and shoot.
 
After several XA2's I finally have an XA3 that works perfectly.
The XA2 is a sweet camera... all of mine need shutter button tuning on a regular basis.
The little spring gets sof and then the shutter becomes unpredictable.
The XA3 is newer and still in fresh condition. I like the 1600 iso as well.
A piece of tape is all that is needed to "decoy" the DX and set ISO manually.

Here is a slightly loose tutorial I did from disasembly documentation photos. Hope it helps someone.
The tutorial was an after-thought so... not completely comprehensive.

Cheers!
 
My hack: if you cut off a small piece of the plastic ink tube from a ballpoint pen and put it in the hole where the flash mechanically interfaces with the camera, you know the one, and set the camera on 'flash', the slowest shutter speed will be 1/30th instead of 2 seconds, which I can't hand hold. Put tape over the hole so it doesn't fall out and you can switch back to 2 seconds by switching the camera off of 'flash', and back to 1/30th.
 
My hack: if you cut off a small piece of the plastic ink tube from a ballpoint pen and put it in the hole where the flash mechanically interfaces with the camera, you know the one, and set the camera on 'flash', the slowest shutter speed will be 1/30th instead of 2 seconds, which I can't hand hold. Put tape over the hole so it doesn't fall out and you can switch back to 2 seconds by switching the camera off of 'flash', and back to 1/30th.

This is a great one! When doing so, does the shutter trip with the aperture always wide open?
 
No! Exposure works just the same except the lowest shutter speed is limited. On the XA you set the aperture, on the XA2 it stops down as normal. I should be more specific, it goes in the hole by the top of the camera, not the screw attachment, and you have to get the ring of tubing all the way to the bottom of the hole. The little metal tab at the side of the hole moves..

🙂
 
I love the XA2. I gotta admit I've been through 3 of them and every one has had either an unreliable shutter button, or a problem with the pressure plate not keeping the film on the sprockets.

Anyway - pictures are more interesting than words.

http://freshfromthestreet.tumblr.com

The last 15 pictures on my tumblr were all taken with the XA2 on Ilford XP2.
 
My hack: if you cut off a small piece of the plastic ink tube from a ballpoint pen and put it in the hole where the flash mechanically interfaces with the camera, you know the one, and set the camera on 'flash', the slowest shutter speed will be 1/30th instead of 2 seconds, which I can't hand hold. Put tape over the hole so it doesn't fall out and you can switch back to 2 seconds by switching the camera off of 'flash', and back to 1/30th.

Is this for the XA? XA2? XA3?
 
I sold my X4 for $40 or so, but I still have the XA and the XA2. O prefer the Minox 35GT over my XA, but I have used both in Japan; one camera in each pants pocket. It doesn't get any lighter than this set.
 
Ouch!

I just traded a black OM2n body for an XA4. It should come in the mail this week.

I've had a few XA's over the years and they always malfunctioned somehow. A buddy of mine gave me an XA2 while I was on my motorcycle trip this summer and the results are quite good. I like it more than my XA's because it is less fiddly and its limited feature set better match its form factor and use as a point and shoot.


Glad you enjoy the xa. They're awesome. .... I was glad to give it to you
 
Do you get consistent results by the meter of XA2? I know it is not there is a single CDs cell there, but do you frequently get frames with the exposure missed over a stop?
 
Do you get consistent results by the meter of XA2? I know it is not there is a single CDs cell there, but do you frequently get frames with the exposure missed over a stop?

One issue with my XA is the lack of an AE exposure lock for when you want to meter from the ground without any blue sky in the frame. When you feel the need to override the AE, set the exposure back-light comp lever to +1.5 - or - set the film speed dial accordingly.

Best Regards,
 
Does its meter get strongly influenced by well lit white objects in the frame? I get sometimes underexposed images even with easy to average subjects in a frame.
My XA2 does not have a back-light compensation feature and under poor light I always mess up with the film speed selector.
 
Does its meter get strongly influenced by well lit white objects in the frame? I get sometimes underexposed images even with easy to average subjects in a frame.
My XA2 does not have a back-light compensation feature and under poor light I always mess up with the film speed selector.

I bought my XA new in 1983 to use on a trip to London with the children. I did not bother to run a test roll through it before the trip, but the dozen or so rolls of Kodachrome that I shot came out with no major exposure problems that I can remember. Actually, the only time I recall having any poor exposures with this camera was when I tried to use the back-light switch.
 
So, could it be just my XA2 that behaves erratically? Should I buy another one, an XA perhaps (although I love the vignetting of the XA2)?
 
Hi Nikos, I don't know if this is relevant to your camera, but I have noticed that there are two versions of the XA2. The early version's exposure matches my other (non XA2) cameras, while the later version underexposes 1/3 stop. I have had three late versions and they all were like this, I just adjusted the ASA to compensate. You can tell which is which by the little people, the early XA2 has taller people, and the later has shorter people..
 

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It seems that my copy is of the later ones with the smaller people icon on the focus zone selector. I guess that it could be underexposure and it becomes more pronounced in frames where exposure accuracy had been a critical factor for a successful outcome.
Thank you for the tip, I will try compensating this via the film sensitivity selector.
 
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