jmilkins
Digited User
kshapero
South Florida Man
Here is one time I agree with Ken Rockwell. http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/fe.htm
I use a Nikon FE all the time. Solid as a rock. Read his review to find out why you might prefer this over an FE2 or even an M7!!
I use a Nikon FE all the time. Solid as a rock. Read his review to find out why you might prefer this over an FE2 or even an M7!!
Lflex
Lflex
Yes.
"This original FE uses half the battery power of the newer FE2 because the FE2 needs stronger shutter springs to get 1/4,000, and the batteries have to power the electromagnets to hold that. I prefer the FE's power switch, which is pulling out the film wind handle, over the 16-second-per-tap shutter button switch of the FE2. My FE is always on when I need it, and the FE2 keeps turning off on me. The FE has a dedicated battery test light, while the FE2 simply stops working to tell you it's time to replace them."
1. Not true, the FE2 battery life is longer than the FE one because of the quartz-regulated shutter which is a remarkable energy saver. The 1/4000 shutter by no means requires some extra power.
2. Not true : the FE2 exposure compensation -+ red signal in the viewfinder also behaves as a battery tester, and Nikon wrote it in the user's manual.
And the FE also stops working when the battery dies, there are no bells and whistles telling you the battery's dead on those cameras.
I think you are mistaken. The FE2 does not have a dedicated battery check, the way it is described in the manual is basically something along the lines "if the needle moves, the battey is ok" - thus if the camera doesnt work, you need to change the battery - much the same as Rockwell says.
Regarding battery life, I cannot comment on Rockwell's argument on why the FE2 eats batteries faster, but my experience is that my FE's lasted up to 3 times longer than the FE2 on the same type of battery. The FE2 manual explains that it is using battery power even in off position. I don't know if the FE also uses power in off position, but the battery in the FE certainly lasted longer in my 20 years experience with those cameras.
MaxElmar
Well-known
Yes, although I like them both, the FE2 is "that much better" (technically) than an FE. Unless you have an old, non-ai lens or two, then you need an FE. If you are worried about batteries or electronics dying, get an FM and take battery out.
Then we can have a fun, rambling, somewhat argumentative discussion about FM vs. FM2.
Then we can have a fun, rambling, somewhat argumentative discussion about FM vs. FM2.
AlwaysOnAuto
Well-known
Thanks for all the replies.
Lately in my newly unemployed-starting-retirement state I find I'm camera rich and cash poor. I have more emotional attachment to the black FE than the FE2 so it will probably be the one to go.
Didn't mean to start any arguments but find questions like this end up that way when opinions are expressed.
Thanks again for the help.
Lately in my newly unemployed-starting-retirement state I find I'm camera rich and cash poor. I have more emotional attachment to the black FE than the FE2 so it will probably be the one to go.
Didn't mean to start any arguments but find questions like this end up that way when opinions are expressed.
Thanks again for the help.
Godfrey
somewhat colored
Thanks for all the replies.
Lately in my newly unemployed-starting-retirement state I find I'm camera rich and cash poor. I have more emotional attachment to the black FE than the FE2 so it will probably be the one to go.
Didn't mean to start any arguments but find questions like this end up that way when opinions are expressed.
Thanks again for the help.
I've had both, and both are good performers.
The FE2 has the TTL flash, higher sync speed as stated. IIRC, it lost the flip-away AI coupling, which means some pre-AI lenses are no longer compatible. The other mechanical change I recall was to a set of titanium shutter blades that were more reliable.
Keep the one you like the most.
... I keep being tempted to add an FM2n back to my Nikon kit, next to the F. The FM/FM2n was my 'standard' camera for many many years. While I liked the FE/FE2 as well, I just preferred the all mechanical FM series a bit more and never really used the TTL flash very much. Problem is that I hardly use even the F very much ... too many cameras, not enough time.
G
semilog
curmudgeonly optimist
Is the FE2 that much better than the FE?
All things being equal, except that the FE is black body vs the chrome FE2, which would you let go first?
I've had several FE2's The 1/4000 shutter and 1/250 sync speed are major attractions of the FE2. The only thing I like better about the FE is its ability to use some older lenses.
Lflex
Lflex
Thanks for all the replies.
Lately in my newly unemployed-starting-retirement state I find I'm camera rich and cash poor. I have more emotional attachment to the black FE than the FE2 so it will probably be the one to go.
Didn't mean to start any arguments but find questions like this end up that way when opinions are expressed.
Thanks again for the help.
Black paint is nice
DNG
Film Friendly
I have always wondered whether it could be possible to install the FM/FE Ai coupling ring under the FM2/FE2 (or all other Nikon cameras having an Ai coupling ring with the non-flipable plastic Ai tab, including the recent pro DSLRs) lensmount so that you have the flipable metal Ai tab instead of the non-flipable plastic one.
Hmmm.
I think... the Lens mount may be able to swapped by a good repair guy.... why not?
I like that idea, I'd get an FE2 and swap out my FE lens mount if can be done.
Godfrey
somewhat colored
I think... the Lens mount may be able to swapped by a good repair guy.... why not?
I like that idea, I'd get an FE2 and swap out my FE lens mount if can be done.
It's not the lens mount, it's the AI coupling ring around the lens mount. Should be an easy swap if you can source the one with the foldaway tab from an FM, FE, or F3 parts body. I don't know if the assembly is still available from Nikon Parts (some of the older bits have been discontinued now).
G
AlwaysOnAuto
Well-known
Well it looks like both cameras will be around together for a while at least. I dropped off the film that was left in the FE2 at the camera shop to be developed and it turns out they don't have the lens I thought they did. So, I guess I'll just have to be happy with what I've got. At least they both take the same batteries so I only have to invest in two of them, if and when I decide to use them again.
semilog
curmudgeonly optimist
Bottom line: they're both g̶o̶o̶d̶ great cameras!
Highway 61
Revisited
I think you are mistaken. The FE2 does not have a dedicated battery check, the way it is described in the manual is basically something along the lines "if the needle moves, the battey is ok" - thus if the camera doesnt work, you need to change the battery - much the same as Rockwell says.
Regarding battery life, I cannot comment on Rockwell's argument on why the FE2 eats batteries faster, but my experience is that my FE's lasted up to 3 times longer than the FE2 on the same type of battery. The FE2 manual explains that it is using battery power even in off position. I don't know if the FE also uses power in off position, but the battery in the FE certainly lasted longer in my 20 years experience with those cameras.
To test the FE2 battery you just have to use the exposure compensation ring and then the red -+ LED must shine in the VF if the battery is strong. If the battery is weak/dead the -+ blinks/doesn't light on. This is where the actual battery tester is installed in the FE2 : a red LED, exactly as it was in the FE.
I don't see how the FE2 could "use battery power even in off position". If it's off, it's off. What happens is : to switch the lightmeter and shutter circuitry on you have to 1/open the winding lever to its 45° resting position 2/half-depress the shutter release button and then the lightmeter will switch on and the black needle move in the VF. There is a 16 seconds tempo so even if you close the winding lever fully, the lightmeter will stay on for a max. time of 16 seconds, true. But, contraringly to the FE, you can live with the winding lever open at its 45° resting position without fearing any battery drain - as soon as you don't depress the shutter release.
Of course if you half-depress the shutter release when the winding lever is fully closed this will not switch the lightmeter on. So the power security is the same as on the FE there.
I have owned three FE and all of them experienced the shutter ceramic-regulated electronics failure eventually.
Now if I was given a FE, even mint, I would certainly not use it as my main camera during a trip or to record some rare and valuable event, because discovering several rolls of film wasted by some erratic shutter speeds isn't fun. They were made in 1977-1982, and now most of them have oxydized and the common failure they suffer from is likely to happen to a large amount of the remaining stock...
OTOH my FE2 never failed... granted to its improved quartz-regulated electronics.
Another bonus of the FE2 vs the FE is that the exposure compensation ring increments at 1/3 f-stops while it increments at 1/2 f-stops on the FE.
The FE was a great camera of its time. Anyway, but for the marginally interesting flipable Ai coupling tab (and its ability to also accept dome-shaped shutter release prongs), it doesn't really have any advantage over the FE2.
rbsinto
Well-known
My first SLR was an FE, and my second an FE-2.
Both excellent cameras, with the major advantage of the FE-2 over the FE for me was the two faster shutter speeds, which let me use larger apertures in bright light. The other newer features in the FE-2 really didn't make a difference to my photography.
The non-illuminated finder information in both was the reason I finally traded them both for other bodies.
They were and still are good, reliable cameras with essentially all the features one needs for most photographic situations.
Both excellent cameras, with the major advantage of the FE-2 over the FE for me was the two faster shutter speeds, which let me use larger apertures in bright light. The other newer features in the FE-2 really didn't make a difference to my photography.
The non-illuminated finder information in both was the reason I finally traded them both for other bodies.
They were and still are good, reliable cameras with essentially all the features one needs for most photographic situations.
haempe
Well-known
Well, it seems I'm a lucky one...
My FE worked flawless since bought new in 1982.
Last month a cog came loose, so the frame-counter stops working.
First repair in 30 years.
My FE worked flawless since bought new in 1982.
Last month a cog came loose, so the frame-counter stops working.
First repair in 30 years.
albertospa
Established
The fundamental difference between the two cameras is in the shutter. The FE has a shutter which introduces more vibration rather than the FE2. The FE2 vibrates a lot less during shooting and is most noticeable with slow shutter speeds.
Lflex
Lflex
To test the FE2 battery you just have to use the exposure compensation ring and then the red -+ LED must shine in the VF if the battery is strong. If the battery is weak/dead the -+ blinks/doesn't light on. This is where the actual battery tester is installed in the FE2 : a red LED, exactly as it was in the FE.
You claim that Rockwell is wrong and that it is described in the manual.
My manual (page 12) is corresponding to what Rockwell describes, and I cannot find your claim supported. It would help if you could point to a page.
I don't see how the FE2 could "use battery power even in off position".
Page 59 in the manual:
"Regardless of whether the camera is switched off or not, the FE2 always discharges a small amount of electricity, because it incorporates a quartz oscillator circuit."
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Highway 61
Revisited
You claim that Rockwell is wrong and that it is described in the manual.
My manual (page 12) is corresponding to what Rockwell describes, and I cannot find your claim supported. It would help if you could point to a page.
Page 59 in the manual:
"Regardless of whether the camera is switched off or not, the FE2 always discharges a small amount of electricity, because it incorporates a quartz oscillator circuit."
1. I did a bit of research and you're right it's not written in the manual but it was written in all the reviews published in the papers of that era. And - it works.
So I still think and write that it's wrong to say that the FE2 doesn't have a battery tester the same design as the FE one, because it does have one, made of a red LED, even if it's located in the VF and not on the left rear of the camera top cover.
BTW because of the infamous ceramic oscillator electronics oxydization problems of the FE, it wasn't rare that testing the battery would unexpectedly fire the shutter ; ditto with depressing the depth-of-field lever. I even had one of my FEs suddenly fire by itself on a beach in wet and windy weather conditions, while it was hanging by the neck strap, and without having my hands on it !
2. Point taken - I didn't know that. My user's manual wasn't written in English and didn't mention this point.
Interesting, thanks.
The fundamental difference between the two cameras is in the shutter. The FE has a shutter which introduces more vibration rather than the FE2. The FE2 vibrates a lot less during shooting and is most noticeable with slow shutter speeds.
Yes, and the FE2 mirror box benefits from an improved damping system.
Anyway, I come to find that those small Nikon SLR bodies, although seducing, have a few quite irking quirks, first, the VF isn't 100% and the eyepoint is too low so it's very hard to see the whole frame and the lightmeter needles when you wear glasses, second, the winding mechanism isn't ratchetted so you can't quickly wind in several strokes (which many people like to do), third, the so-so mirror lock-up coupled with the non-bypassable selftimer can drive you nuts sometimes, fourth, there might be too many plastic parts on them including the front cover and the take-up spool, so at the end of the day, if you want to enjoy shooting with something having that real vintage, all-metal, ball bearings, 100% mechanical feel and a true 100% viewfinder with an excellent eyepoint if you wear glasses, you may want to do yourself a favor and look elsewhere (Nikon F eyelevel or Nikon F2 DE-1...) while shooting film on a daily basis is still fully possible at quite a low cost.
literiter
Well-known
When I see some of the ridiculously/delightfully low prices for cameras like the Nikon FE, Pentax Spotmatic et al, I prefer to keep what I have.
Unless space is an issue, why get rid of any of it?
Unless space is an issue, why get rid of any of it?
weihsuan
Established
It's not the lens mount, it's the AI coupling ring around the lens mount. Should be an easy swap if you can source the one with the foldaway tab from an FM, FE, or F3 parts body. I don't know if the assembly is still available from Nikon Parts (some of the older bits have been discontinued now).
G
Hi, its an interesting idea to swap the meter coupling ring. Anyone tried the swap successfully?
Thanks!
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