FED 1d, replacing vulcanite "leather"

[Mosasaurus2]

Hello,
Last weekend I bought on a fair here in the Netherlands a FED 1d (NKVD, Nr. 164150). Unfortunately I didn’t notice that two pieces/patches of the “leather” were lost. So I planned renewing the leather…..
On the internet I saw some difficult instructions removing the vulcanite with a special agressive gel, that is supposed to remove/dissolve paint. Here on RFF someone else suggested to yo use a chisel (that sounds logical) and perhaps some lighter fluid.

My question is if someone of you has experience removing the vulcanite/ leather of the FED 1d and replacing it by new leather(ette)? What kind of leatherette would you recommend? Dividing/partition line of the leatherette under the lens?
Thanks for answering in advance.
Regards,
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[rbiemer]

I would recommend this:
http://aki-asahi.com/store/html/no_cut_leather/UncutLeather.php
Well made, relatively inexpensive, and he ships promptly.

I would think that, yes, the join/seam is best done at the lens mount. Least visible and least likely to separate there I think.

Rob

 

[02Pilot]

Unless you can find a pre-cut cover specific to that model, it can be quite tricky to get a nice clean fit. You might consider just using a little liquid electrical tape to fill in those areas.

 

[nukecoke]

Unless you can find a pre-cut cover specific to that model, it can be quite tricky to get a nice clean fit. You might consider just using a little liquid electrical tape to fill in those areas.

That's a good suggestion.
Cutting a clean fit is more a question than which leatherette to buy here.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=camera+leatherette&_sop=15

I used the cheaper Chinese ones for my Zorki-6. Using a chisel to remove old flakes make sense to me.

 

[davidnewtonguitars]

I have had several Russian cameras, and none of them had flaking vulcanite like my Leica. I think the Russians had a much tougher formula. If lighter-fluid works, it probably is the least messy way, and you should always start by the least messy way.

 

[Dralowid]

If the rest is well stuck on I'd leave it and fill the missing bits with a setting compound of some sort (can't remember the name). It is then quite easy to match the pattern as it dries.

 

[David Hughes]

Hi,

That ironwork paint with the "bobbley" finish ought to do the trick but I can't remember the name of it and you probably can only get it in industrial sized drums...

Regards, David

 

[wolves3012]

I haven't replaced it on a FED 1 but I have on two Zorkis, which had the same material. It's a messy process but I put the bodyshells in the oven at 200C (I think, anyway - HOT) and it'll soften and can be scraped off, in stages. You have to be quick and re-heat it when it cools too much. Obviously don't burn yourself and be prepared to take the bodyshell off the "guts" (which is quite easy).

I can't recommend chipping it off, the vulcanite is quite tough and it'll take ages - apart from the risk of damaging the shell. I think some paint-strippers will work but again, it's foolish not to take the shell off due to the risk of getting it on the internals. Things like lighter fluid won't even touch vulcanite.

 

[wolves3012]

Hi,

That ironwork paint with the "bobbley" finish ought to do the trick but I can't remember the name of it and you probably can only get it in industrial sized drums...

Regards, David

I think you're thinking of Hammerite, David?

 

[Dralowid]

You'd need to build up Hammerite in layers.

The stuff I am thinking of is like a modelling wax which can be put on thick enough and then hardens. It can be very convincing.

I'm against recovering cameras, however well it is done it is never the same.

 

[David Hughes]

I think you're thinking of Hammerite, David?

That's the stuff; not used it for years. Best to have cameras with "warts and all" as someone once said...

Regards, David

 

[David Hughes]

You'd need to build up Hammerite in layers.

The stuff I am thinking of is like a modelling wax which can be put on thick enough and then hardens. It can be very convincing.

I'm against recovering cameras, however well it is done it is never the same.

Yup, same here althought someone very nicely recovered my old M2 with a very dark brown leather sometime before I got my hand on it and it looks great.

Regards, David

 

[Steve M.]

An art supply store, some black acrylic paint in a small tube or jar, and a cheap brush are your friends on this project. It should be very easy to dab it on there and blend in to the original finish to make it all spiffy again. You an make it as pebbley as you wish w/ any old tool or stick. That stuff will stick to just about anything, dries hard, is permanent, and it's easy to wipe off the mistakes (or do some blending) w/ a tissue before it sets up. No need to build up in layers, just put it on as thick as you wish on the first go. Practice on something first and you have a 5 minute repair job on your Fed.

 

[Mosasaurus2]

My neighbour is an (amateur)painter. So he has a lot of acryl-paint.... Being a good neighbour, he is so friendly to try to do the job! I'm very interested how it will looks like.....
Thanks to everybody who tried to help me/tried to answer my question!
Regards,
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[David Hughes]

Wow! Dare we ask for a before and after photo, please?

Regards, David

 

[Mosasaurus2]

Of course David!

 

[Mosasaurus2]

Hello David,
My neighbour Jan brought the camera back. He did a good job, I think. Look at the pictures below.... (And compare them with the pictures in the beginning of this thread).
Regards,
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[David Hughes]

Wow! Or better still two wows... Many thanks.

Regards, David

 

[Mosasaurus2]

And 2 pictures extra ....: