5nap5hot
Pest at large
Sorry ...i can't seem to find it on Google. What is the ISO range on the Fed-2d?
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
5nap5hot said:Sorry ...i can't seem to find it on Google. What is the ISO range on the Fed-2d?
Are you taking the p*** out of us or what"
No ISO range ... only aperture and shutter speed dude! The ISO will be what ever you choose when selecting film. You'll also need a meter or learn the 'sunny sixteen rule'
http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm
howpow
Established
Because the FED 2 is manual and has no coupled light meter you can use any fim speed you like. Your only limiting factor is if you are shooting outdoors on a sunny day you only have a limit of f16 & 1/500. So in these condition 400ASA flm would be about as fast as you could use. But in dim conditions the fastest film avalable would be fine. You will probably need a separate light meter.
John Robertson
Well-known
Definitely an" extraction of urine"
I hope!!!
I hope!!!
reagan
hey, they're only Zorkis
I don't know about FEDs, but the ISO range on my Zorkis is whatever ISO is on clearance at Walgreens.
5nap5hot
Pest at large
Oh... duh. I forgot it has no light meter. Sorry... I am just stupid
ZorkiKat
ЗоркийК&
There is a ГОСТ dial on the wind knob. ГОСТ was the USSR equivalent of ASA and is now interchangeable with ISO. It's just there to remind the user what the film's speed (and type, BW, colour daylight, or colour tungsten) is in the camera. It WON'T affect exposures unless the user forgets the film he's using.
Spyderman
Well-known
So to conclude this: the ISO range is about 6 to 25000
reagan
hey, they're only Zorkis
Nope. We're just havin' fun. Stupid is the guy that doesn't ask questions.5nap5hot said:
Xmas
Veteran
If the camera has not been a user or not 'CLA'ed rescently then you need to check the shutter before loading a film. You can do this yourself.
Wind on first, always wind before setting the shutter, depending on model you may gat physical damage or jam, if you dont, (it is meaningful with your Fed2 to adjust speed before you wind as you would be able to tell what you will get, it is not recommended by people who are cautious.)
Remove back and lens and try the slow speed. The shutter curtain should not be badly cracked and should overlap at start and may increase overlap as it is wound, (cocked). If the rubber is cracked the fabric may leak light, through the weave.
When fired at the slow speed (or B) each blind should progress to the other side uniformly, the second blind should hold (at B) until the shutter is released. The shutter should make a repeatable twatwack noise ( at the slow speed) as the 2nd blind is delayed (by the progress of the first) and you should see a whole 36mm opening. The critical think is the sound must repeat, every time, and the blind must close every time.
When you have learned the sound like a grade 8 musician then you can try the 100 it will have a twk sound and the difference characterises the speeds.
If your symptoms seem perfect, then stick in a good quality film as you little camera can take real photos, it is a real camera, and can stretch slow B&W film.
If you have intermittent or capping problems post symptoms. Jay has trained his cats to do camera maintenance - as well as posing, and can more easily help you over the forum noise of clever talking donkeys like me. If you have cracks shine a flash light in dark room through the blind material to see if you can see even a slight leak. It is an addressable problem with black fabric paint but you only need to spot the leak with a fine brush and to leave it to dry flat for 24 hours, before painting the second blind, and letting it dry for 24 hours.
If the problem is only on the slow speed - ignore try a film, a Ru camera will improve your photography but may also improve your maintenance skills
Noel
P.S. If you are worried but still want to try a film take a few shots of a CRT TV raster picture at 2.8 or 3.5 and 1/100! The raster scan and the shutter exposure process interact to allow the acceleration of the first and second blinds to be clearly seen - you dont get a good shot of the screen, just a curved simitar (sabre) shape. The fix (to prejudice Jay's disgnostic) may only be to adjust the two exposed screws on the baseplate, they have strange heads and little locking screws.
P.P.S. Jay likes helping people, and I dont like damaging cameras, posting before risking damage, is clever... ignore humor
Wind on first, always wind before setting the shutter, depending on model you may gat physical damage or jam, if you dont, (it is meaningful with your Fed2 to adjust speed before you wind as you would be able to tell what you will get, it is not recommended by people who are cautious.)
Remove back and lens and try the slow speed. The shutter curtain should not be badly cracked and should overlap at start and may increase overlap as it is wound, (cocked). If the rubber is cracked the fabric may leak light, through the weave.
When fired at the slow speed (or B) each blind should progress to the other side uniformly, the second blind should hold (at B) until the shutter is released. The shutter should make a repeatable twatwack noise ( at the slow speed) as the 2nd blind is delayed (by the progress of the first) and you should see a whole 36mm opening. The critical think is the sound must repeat, every time, and the blind must close every time.
When you have learned the sound like a grade 8 musician then you can try the 100 it will have a twk sound and the difference characterises the speeds.
If your symptoms seem perfect, then stick in a good quality film as you little camera can take real photos, it is a real camera, and can stretch slow B&W film.
If you have intermittent or capping problems post symptoms. Jay has trained his cats to do camera maintenance - as well as posing, and can more easily help you over the forum noise of clever talking donkeys like me. If you have cracks shine a flash light in dark room through the blind material to see if you can see even a slight leak. It is an addressable problem with black fabric paint but you only need to spot the leak with a fine brush and to leave it to dry flat for 24 hours, before painting the second blind, and letting it dry for 24 hours.
If the problem is only on the slow speed - ignore try a film, a Ru camera will improve your photography but may also improve your maintenance skills
Noel
P.S. If you are worried but still want to try a film take a few shots of a CRT TV raster picture at 2.8 or 3.5 and 1/100! The raster scan and the shutter exposure process interact to allow the acceleration of the first and second blinds to be clearly seen - you dont get a good shot of the screen, just a curved simitar (sabre) shape. The fix (to prejudice Jay's disgnostic) may only be to adjust the two exposed screws on the baseplate, they have strange heads and little locking screws.
P.P.S. Jay likes helping people, and I dont like damaging cameras, posting before risking damage, is clever... ignore humor
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reagan
hey, they're only Zorkis
whew. urine extraction is a lot of work.
Xmas
Veteran
CVBLZ4
Hey he has only five posts, & I'm not perfect I should have asked for 400 ASA film, you missed an opp.
Noel
Hey he has only five posts, & I'm not perfect I should have asked for 400 ASA film, you missed an opp.
Noel
vortex
Junglist
Spyderman said:So to conclude this: the ISO range is about 6 to 25000
wahahaa
i just got my fed 2 as well....hopefully will get to do a trial shoot this weekend