FED 3 problem

I love these cameras!
You think you've got the measure of them (and a damn good selection of 'em) and then you discover there's more to see, understand and collect!
It's poor weather out there, I've got some darkroom time to catch up on and try the next little printing trick, see ya later!
Dave....
 
Hi guys

Just got back to the post from tinkering. I am not much further ahead after flushing that slot out with lighter fluid, adjusting the height of the spindle a number of times and blowing out any debris that may have hindered that pawl/ratchet. It has been an interesting adventure though. Thanks again to all for contributing all the info so far and I will tinker more later. I think my camera is a late model 3b and from the photos that I have taken with it I also get dark bars on the left side of my photos which seem to get worse the colder the camera gets. Likely it is all related somehow. Nice camera though even with a few bugs to iron out.

Bob
 
Nikon Bob said:
Hi guys

Just got back to the post from tinkering. I am not much further ahead after flushing that slot out with lighter fluid, adjusting the height of the spindle a number of times and blowing out any debris that may have hindered that pawl/ratchet. It has been an interesting adventure though. Thanks again to all for contributing all the info so far and I will tinker more later. I think my camera is a late model 3b and from the photos that I have taken with it I also get dark bars on the left side of my photos which seem to get worse the colder the camera gets. Likely it is all related somehow. Nice camera though even with a few bugs to iron out.

Bob
Sounds like the whole camera needs a serious CLA. You're out of luck on another "HOW TO" from me, my recently-acquired 3b just needed a few bits of lubing to get it running sweetly, so it doesn't need pulling apart. The bars issue sounds like one of the shutters stalling (left of photo=right of frame) or running slow, due to lack of tension or dried up lubricant. Have you tried the "monitor" test on it? See the sticky on setting tensions, it may show the cause.
 
wolves3012 said:
Sounds like the whole camera needs a serious CLA. You're out of luck on another "HOW TO" from me, my recently-acquired 3b just needed a few bits of lubing to get it running sweetly, so it doesn't need pulling apart. The bars issue sounds like one of the shutters stalling (left of photo=right of frame) or running slow, due to lack of tension or dried up lubricant. Have you tried the "monitor" test on it? See the sticky on setting tensions, it may show the cause.

Aw well, it was worth a try before considering a CLA. I did see the sticky on adjusting the shutter and how to check it on a monitor. Tried it and drove myself crazy looking through the shutter at the monitor. Too bad that there is not a FED Survival site like the one for Kievs. I might have relearned that I are not mechanically adept out of this though. Thanks for everyones time and help on this and if I ever get it sorted out I will let you know what the problem was.

Bob
 
Hi All- I am having a similar problem with a Fed 1(g). I expected to find a ratchet type gizmo to keep the shutter wound but the only thing I could find that seems to do this is the spring clutch around the winding shaft. There is a lot of sloppiness in the knob when the shutter is wound but it seems to be working. Also, I just acquired a Fed NKVD vintage body that has none of this slop. I can see no ratchet device on this one either but it is much tighter feeling. Any ideas ? Thanks in advance.

Roger B
 
rbeverag said:
Hi All- I am having a similar problem with a Fed 1(g). I expected to find a ratchet type gizmo to keep the shutter wound but the only thing I could find that seems to do this is the spring clutch around the winding shaft. There is a lot of sloppiness in the knob when the shutter is wound but it seems to be working. Also, I just acquired a Fed NKVD vintage body that has none of this slop. I can see no ratchet device on this one either but it is much tighter feeling. Any ideas ? Thanks in advance.

Roger B
The early models did use the spring clutch, as you have noted. Unless there's a lot of backlash I wouldn't worry about it. If there is, it can be tightened by coiling the spring a little tighter, with it removed. I'd be careful though, since it would be easy to distort it.

I'd guess the differences you've found is down to the difference in how tightly the springs fit (or don't!). I have a FED NKVD and Zorki 1 that differ, the Zorki being the tighter of the two.

Maybe mr ZorkiKat has more information on this, since he seems to have done a lot of work on these models and knows them well!
 
wolves3012 said:
The early models did use the spring clutch, as you have noted. Unless there's a lot of backlash I wouldn't worry about it. If there is, it can be tightened by coiling the spring a little tighter, with it removed. I'd be careful though, since it would be easy to distort it.

I'd guess the differences you've found is down to the difference in how tightly the springs fit (or don't!). I have a FED NKVD and Zorki 1 that differ, the Zorki being the tighter of the two.

Maybe mr ZorkiKat has more information on this, since he seems to have done a lot of work on these models and knows them well!


The 1(g) has had the spring removed and bent slightly. It was a bear to get back in and I don't want to go there again. Maybe an undistorted one would be easier. Asl long as I know that's what it does and there is no missing mechanism, I will live with it. I at least got the yak fat out of the remainder of the knob assembly.

Roger B
 
Nikon Bob said:
Hi guys

I also get dark bars on the left side of my photos which seem to get worse the colder the camera gets. Likely it is all related somehow.

Bob

This has been fairly common on my FEDS also, you may be pleased to know that it is quite unlikely to be related to the frames problem. It is usually because of dried lube in the speed selector and release mechanism. It will be worse when cold (sticky lube), at the fastest speed and if you press the shutter button slowly. If you hold it up to a bright uniform background and look through the back without the lens on you could see the dark area at the start of the curtain travel, on the right hand side. The second curtain is not trapped as the button is pressed and wanders about on its own. A clean and careful lube of this area and in particular the rod connected to the crescent shaped escapement. Top off, I'm afraid.

Had a go at that tooth yet?

Dave.....
 
Dave

I have had the top off just to see how difficult it would be. When I get another chance I'll go back in and try to cla it. My Fed 3 seems to hang up whether or not the tooth is engaged properly or not.

Bob
 
Nikon Bob said:
Dave

I have had the top off just to see how difficult it would be. When I get another chance I'll go back in and try to cla it. My Fed 3 seems to hang up whether or not the tooth is engaged properly or not.

Bob

As you press the shutter button, the crescent shaped catch should lower, more or less with the button. A fine spring presses this down and inwards. You will see that directly under the crescent (when wound on) is the little tag for the second curtain. This should align with the cut out in the crescent. You will notice that this tag actually sits below the crescent and relies on the downward movement of the crescent to trap the tag in its cut out, before the curtains are released and it slips out without being trapped (this arrangement is to facilitate the B function). This is what must be happening in yours. Before you bend or file anything, make sure that all is clean and lightly lubed in this area and that the crescent does rise and fall with the shutter button. I guess it would be wise to CLA before you modify anything. (and make sure that the tag is positioned correctly in the middle or to the back of the cut out, and..that the curtain limiter as Wolves has photographed is not holding the curtain before it has wound far enough to get the correct position of the tag)

Come to think of it, there's plenty to check, I'm sure that you will see how it works and figure it out.

Anyway, enjoy!
 
Last edited:
Dave

That is a lot to digest so I think I will take a break from my tinkering/enjoyment of the FED3, for sanity sake, and go shoot some film with my new J12 in Kiev mount. I had not trouble mounting it and have hope that the results will be good.

Bob
 
Back
Top Bottom