CamB
Member
I have a FED2, bought from an Ebay seller as having had a CLA (which it seems to have had - clean inside camera and viewfinder, smooth, etc).
I am looking to fine tune the shutter speeds, and have determined (see here for how), that 1/500 is maybe 1/3-1/2 a stop slow and 1/60 1/3-1/2 a stop fast. There doesn't look to be a material (or any) issue with synchronisation, and I don't have a CRT to check the recommended way.
What combo of 1st/2nd curtain tension adjustment will help this, or is what I have "good enough"?
I am looking to fine tune the shutter speeds, and have determined (see here for how), that 1/500 is maybe 1/3-1/2 a stop slow and 1/60 1/3-1/2 a stop fast. There doesn't look to be a material (or any) issue with synchronisation, and I don't have a CRT to check the recommended way.
What combo of 1st/2nd curtain tension adjustment will help this, or is what I have "good enough"?
wolves3012
Veteran
Those figures are aren't too bad for a mechanical camera, let alone one of the age it has to be. Personally, I would advise you to leave alone, they are close enough for all but the most critical use. You cannot adjust the two shutter speeds separately anyway.
What most people don't realize is the slit-width between the curtains is the primary control over actual effective exposure speed, assuming the curtains are not dragging. Unless there's a serious imbalance in tensions or a CLA issue these types of shutter tend to "just work" and fine-tuning is a futile exercise. You can check for likelihood of an even exposure by removing the lens and back and aiming a laser pointer at each end of the shutter opening in turn, while firing at 1/500. If you get to see the dot pass through, clearly, at both ends, you have no capping and you probably have no tapering either.
Shoot some film and judge the results before anything else.
Scrambler
Well-known
It's good enough, better than many.
You can get apps like Shutter-Speed for the iPhone that will give good estimates for slower speeds. Top speed on a spring-driven shutter is usually optimistic by nearly a stop. Your figures are consistent with this pattern.
If using b&w I don't trouble myself until the shutter is 2/3 stop out and then I use the nearest corrected speed: ie shoot within 1/2 a stop. If it really bothers you, adjust your metering to compensate. You are probably metering to the nearest full stop anyway.
I'll post to the other thread my concern with the methodology.
You can get apps like Shutter-Speed for the iPhone that will give good estimates for slower speeds. Top speed on a spring-driven shutter is usually optimistic by nearly a stop. Your figures are consistent with this pattern.
If using b&w I don't trouble myself until the shutter is 2/3 stop out and then I use the nearest corrected speed: ie shoot within 1/2 a stop. If it really bothers you, adjust your metering to compensate. You are probably metering to the nearest full stop anyway.
I'll post to the other thread my concern with the methodology.
CamB
Member
Thanks guys - very helpful. I had the feeling it wasn't something I could adjust around. I'm not worried by the variability from "perfect". If it is something I can adjust I would, and if it's how it is then I will adjust how I meter (which is pretty variable anyway...).
Using the photoplug at either end of the shutter travel gives slightly different readings, which is sort of like the laser pointer test. If anything it implies the 2nd curtain is a little too high.
Scrambler - thanks for the comment in the other thread. I obviously need to think it through more. I will do as you suggest and see if it helps me understand.
Using the photoplug at either end of the shutter travel gives slightly different readings, which is sort of like the laser pointer test. If anything it implies the 2nd curtain is a little too high.
Scrambler - thanks for the comment in the other thread. I obviously need to think it through more. I will do as you suggest and see if it helps me understand.
mburns
Established
The old television trick is significant.
The old television trick is significant.
My FED 2 came from Ukraine last year with over-tensioned curtain adjustments and glitches in the curtain travel. Your example may have a glitch in the rotation of the shutter control, and it seems over-tensioned, too stiff, or lacking in friction. Observations in front of an old television screen are, as taught here, important to be able to diagnose these.
So I adjusted the spring tensions for the curtains, and then exercised the camera until the curtains traveled evenly. But I am still left with shutter speeds that are one half of a stop slow. I have not studied how to remedy that.
Yet, it's a camera rewarding to use, for sure.
The old television trick is significant.
My FED 2 came from Ukraine last year with over-tensioned curtain adjustments and glitches in the curtain travel. Your example may have a glitch in the rotation of the shutter control, and it seems over-tensioned, too stiff, or lacking in friction. Observations in front of an old television screen are, as taught here, important to be able to diagnose these.
So I adjusted the spring tensions for the curtains, and then exercised the camera until the curtains traveled evenly. But I am still left with shutter speeds that are one half of a stop slow. I have not studied how to remedy that.
Yet, it's a camera rewarding to use, for sure.